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Discussion New Balius. Help!?!

Discussion in 'Kawasaki 250cc In-line 4's' started by Benjamin Smith, May 27, 2018.

  1. Cbuzz

    Cbuzz Well-Known Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Hah, yeah. Get an absorbent cloth in there. Been down that exact road myself a while back. You'll need fresh oil for sure + a good flush or two. Some of that fuel will no doubt have already made it's way past the rings into the sump.

    Should be able to get the needle + seats from motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au
     
  2. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Big Cheese Contributing Member

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    u will need to drain the oil as it will be contaminated ... leave the plugs out , carbys off, sump plug out and oil cap off to let the fuel evaporate ...



    ... and u dont need to crank it ... just roll the bike forward in gear with the plugs out


    and "I told you so " :lolsign:
     
  3. Cbuzz

    Cbuzz Well-Known Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Will probably hydrolock with the chambers full of fuel like that. Saw the exact thing on my 88 zx2r.
     
  4. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Big Cheese Contributing Member

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    With the plugs out ? ... ummm no
     
  5. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    Put the drained oil in a metal bucket or large metal tin and gently heat on the BBQ to burn off the fuel. Afterwards let the oil sit in the tin under a cover for a couple of months without being disturbed/bumped/moved to let any contaminates settle before carefully draining off the clean oil. This will not be as good as new oil but will be ok for a short time to use as a flushing oil before new oil and filter fitted.
     
  6. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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  7. Benjamin Smith

    Benjamin Smith Member Premium Member

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    Also while I hate to make myself look stupid by asking this but, as this is my first carby bike ( or any bike) is it possible the way I was trying to start it caused this. As it was running around half an hour prior. Perhaps I used an incorrect or bad combination of choke and W.O.T

    Just spent $100 on a new battery for it as well. Can anyone say money pit. *sigh*
     
  8. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Was the fuel tank on prime?

    Even so it still would indicated float valve problems (damaged or gunk holding them open, stuck floats)
     
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  9. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Shouldn't need any throttle when the choke is on
    But the needle and seats should shut of any petrol flow once they have reached the set level.
     
  10. Benjamin Smith

    Benjamin Smith Member Premium Member

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    No I did use the prime but definitely not while cranking. I guess the lack of fuel filter and possibly not getting all the rusty crap out of the tank could have jammed a needle open.
    But all the carbs where full. The bike had been running okay except for the idling issue i mentioned prior. Making me think the needles and seats were alright.

    Maybe just excessive cranking while on choke dragged it all in. I don't know.
    There goes another couple hundred.

    Wish I knew that about 5 hours ago. Good to know though.

    Anyone want to buy a balius haha. Registered and "running" just needs some carby work lol.

    What's the cheapest oil to use for flushing the motor out.
     
  11. Benjamin Smith

    Benjamin Smith Member Premium Member

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    Ive always had to give it pretty much full throttle with full choke to get it to start. Maybe the previous owner changed the pilot jets. I set the idle mixture screws to 2 & 1/2 turns.
    I'll have a look when the seal kit and now float & seals arrive and I strip the carbs down again.
    Makes me appreciate my fuel injection car a lot more.
     
  12. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Big Cheese Contributing Member

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    People need to read the whole thread again

    Same thing is being repeated over and over

    Your carbs need a complete overhaul .... which is standard practice with old inline 4s .... and theres no use having perfect carbs if theres crap in everything feeding them ... thats what filters are for

    And Ive told you what to do with the fuel/ oil/ motor/ thing .... just leave it for a few days as I described above then just refill it with new oil when the carbs have been sorted.
     
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  13. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Indicative of air leaks, but see below...

    You should get yourself some JIS screwdrivers, balius carb kits if they exist + litetek kit and go to town on the carbs.

    https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?...in-your-zxr250-keihin-cvk30-carburetors.2651/
     
  14. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Black and Gold engine oil is one of the cheapest, 15w40 5L for $13 at IGA's and some Foodland shop's, otherwise you can use most cheap mineral engine oil's, check out sale's at supercheap etc
     
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  15. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Big Cheese Contributing Member

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  16. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    For flushing the fuel tainted oil out,
    there's no need to worry about losing viscosity etc when the oil's only going to be run in there for 1/2 an hour.
    And thinking about it a bit more, i've been running engine oil in my XR Fairmont's Toploader 4 speed gearbox since 1992 without a problem.
    And my uncle (bus diesel mechanic) that told me about it has been using engine oil in his since the early 80's without a problem too.
    How much is the cheapest Mobil MC oil?
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2018
  17. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Big Cheese Contributing Member

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    Im not recommending Mobil ... its just a reference for the less experienced to know the difference between car and bike oil , wet clutches , friction modifiers etc

    We have had 4 or 5 bikes here with fuel in the oil .... drop the oil , let the residue fuel evaporate , new oil in .... good to go
     
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  18. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    For flushing and running it for a half hour or so isn't going to hurt, it's nowhere near as good as motorcycle specific oil's though.
    Just make sure it's mineral oil without friction modifier's etc etc, try not to use semi or full synthetic oil's as some don't work well with wet clutch's
    I usually run Castrol Active 4T 15W50 in my bike's,
    supercheap sell it for $30 4L when they have their catalogue sale's every now and then, normally $36 4L.
     
  19. Bab

    Bab Active Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I was under the impression that MC oils had anti foaming characteristics that were important to the overall efficiency of it. They were to help with the cooling aspect of the oil circulation. I've done a lot of reading here, and elsewhere about oils and have yet to have the courage to use anything but the MC oils. Am I a victim of too much advertising, and BS shot my way?
     
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  20. Benjamin Smith

    Benjamin Smith Member Premium Member

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    20180624_184539.jpg
    Well ive started cleaning them.
    20180624_170757.jpg And I don't know if the seat are supposed to be this hard to remove, but man did this take me a while.
     

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