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Project Neglected MC22

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by fiyah, Aug 15, 2018.

  1. fiyah

    fiyah Active Member

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    Hi guys, love the website. First post, I've been lurking here a while now. Love being able to see everybody else's rides & projects. It's very inspiring. Anyway, I began my riding career 5 years ago with a 91' MC22. She ran good to my knowledge when she was on the road. Sadly for the last 2-3 years though, she's been sitting in the garage with old fuel. I know, I've learnt my lesson.

    So my wife tells me she's pregnant with our first child the other week. I don't have that much time left guys. Need to get my other mistress back up and running. Spent some time with her recently and tried flicking the throttle with no intention of starting her up, but the throttle was seized up. You could not move it at all. I thought it was the throttle cable but eventually traced problem to the carbs. Guess they're overdue for a clean.

    Photo 5-8-18, 2 42 12 pm (1).jpg
    If I didn't stumble upon an old MC22 project thread I would of never gotten the carbs off. Thank you (Used the tool with red handle & towels).

    Photo 5-8-18, 2 40 11 pm (1).jpg
    All gummed up. 2 out of 4 carbs were seized at the throttle wheel.

    Photo 5-8-18, 2 40 51 pm.jpg
    Something to look forward to.

    Photo 12-8-18, 5 37 08 pm.jpg
    Nothing fancy, just toothbrush and carb cleaner. I have free'd up the throttle wheel/shaft on each carb. They all rotate freely now. I wasn't too keen on disassembling the throttle shafts, the staked screws seem too much hassle. Main jets 105 for carbs 1 & 4. 102 for 2 & 3, currently sitting in cheapo carb cleaner. Gotta go to my old man's joint to borrow his compressor, located 2 and a half hours away. Can finish rebuilding carbs when the LiteTek carb kit arrives.

    Photo 5-8-18, 12 45 46 pm (1).jpg
    Any suggestions?

    Thought I'd give the fuel tank some time as well because pulling if off I had noticed the rear shock had some sort of residue dripping from the fuel tap.
    Photo 25-7-18, 5 23 56 pm.jpg

    Photo 25-7-18, 5 25 22 pm.jpg
    So I manage to get the fuel tap off easily.

    Photo 15-8-18, 4 42 29 pm.jpg
    But the filter is currently stuck in there, it doesn't want to come out at all.

    Photo 15-8-18, 2 56 33 pm.jpg
    Had a closer look in the tank and noticed there was a layer of black stuff that was cracking.

    Photo 15-8-18, 2 59 59 pm.jpg
    ??? Softly chiseled a bit out with my long flat head.

    Photo 15-8-18, 2 59 10 pm.jpg
    A peek inside the tank. You can see exposed metal of tank from other photo on the bottom left. Don't tell me I have to get it all out with a long flathead? Just wanted to check the fuel filter screen... Guess I'm leaving this til' I figure out what to do.

    Photo 15-8-18, 4 50 39 pm.jpg
    Fuel tap dissembled and quick clean. Diaphragm looked OK? No noticeable tears.

    Photo 14-8-18, 1 41 48 pm.jpg
    Don't know whether it matters but left hand coil is currently 3 & 2 (opposed to 2 & 3). Right hand coil is 4 & 1 (opposed to 1 & 4). I will correct the leads to factory settings when I get new plugs.

    So that's where I'm currently at. I've got oil and fluids ready to go. Brake pads were replaced before she went to bed 2-3 years ago. I really want to give that engine a clean. Don't know whether I should start tearing more stuff down. But it looks that way though cos of stuff like this.

    Photo 25-7-18, 5 22 50 pm.jpg

    Only 2 weeks left til Spring!!
     
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  2. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Welcome to the forum
    Look's like you are making a lot of progress on your bike.
    The stuff in the bottom of your tank look's like it's been lined with something, possibly a tank sealer/liner.
    The only thing i can think of to remove it would be industrial paint stripper, but be very careful u don't get it on the outside of your tank.
    Someone here may know what sort of sealer it has now, you may be able to reseal over the top of where it's lifting with another layer of the same brand sealer without removing the old stuff first ?

    And congratulation's on your future baby too.
     
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  3. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    Firstly congrats on the impending arrival.

    The black stuff in your tank is a liner , I,would assume at some point that your tank was rusty , the liner is a dense liquid that spreads and cures inside the tank effectively sealing it , you may have to reline it if your liner is lifting.

    Good to see you are getting a litetek kit, I would recommend checking your carb insulators , if yours are hard then replace them, xcitebikes.com.au stock them. Make sure you lube all your cables.

    I would replace the coolant if it has sat that long, hopefully clean coolant comes out. Mc22’s can have water pump issues if they sit for too long.
    I would also look at bleeding both brakes , brake fluid doesn’t like to sit for long periods.

    Lastly , check your tyres, make sure the rubber hasn’t gone hard and cracked, they are date stamped on the sides.

    Sounds like a fun project, looking forward to hearing it run.
     
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  4. risky

    risky risky

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    2 babies to look after and love. enjoy both and welcome.
     
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  5. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Welcome and thank you for your order. It goes out tomorrow and will take 10 to 14 days. There is always good advice on this forum and helpful people. All the best with the new family member, your life is about to change.
    Cheers
    Blair
     
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  6. XCite Bikes

    XCite Bikes Parts and Accessories Staff Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Although you could order new OEM bolts, I would recommend you to take one of these bolts to a fastener shop nearby and get some replacements. As long as they are the correct size and rust-proof, it will work just fine.

    There should be a small air filter inside this box. I guess it disintegrated with time. Some people improvise a new filter, I'm not sure what to use.

    If the filter is not damaged, leave it there. If it is damaged, you can remove the old one with a plier and some "brute force". A replacement OEM filter is not really cheap, so check if you really have to replace it or not.
    There is a o-ring at the bottom of the filter (we can see it on the photo). You may want to replace that. If this o-ring doesn't seal properly anymore, you will have a small leak from there.

    This order works, but good idea in correcting the leads. The lead going from coil 4 to cylinder 1 seems very stretched, I think that should be going to cylinder 4.

    Have fun!
     
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  7. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Congrats on the babies.
    To get the filter from the tank (and you will have to get it out to reline it or it will block the filter) use a small lever to get the O ring out then if the filter will still not move a drill bit carefully screwed in by hand will usually grab it so can be pulled out.
     
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  8. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    For the fuel bowl bolt's i've replaced my FZR carby bolt's with some 316 stainless socket head bolt's,
    i first used some 304 bolt's but the socket head's round out easily if you take them out and refit them a lot.
    They are like these but you'd need to order the size and length you require-
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/M3-to-M10-Button-Head-Hex-Socket-Cap-Allen-Screws-Bolts-A4-Stainless-G316-Marine/272996764141?hash=item3f8fe009ed:m:mBFYnIN0rZsz_e_zfKqdpHw&var=572221963660
    And use some antiseize on them so they never seize up again.

    304-stainless-steel-pan-head-screws-Round-head-screws-hexagonal-bolts-mushrooms-M5-25mm.jpg loctite_771_28gm.jpg

    This Lanotec is recommended for stainless to alloy's to prevent galling and corrosion, and can also be used on all your electrical terminals to prevent corrosion too
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LANOTEC...003995&hash=item2ab14b37a3:g:8ygAAOSwQupXVxv3

    s-l500.jpg

    Here's a new fuel filter for the tank too
    Look's like there's a ring that fit's inside the filter to retain it into the tank outlet, first remove the o'ring then you should be able to pick the retaining ring out the filter and it should come out easier
    Sometime's using a self tapper screw lightly screwed in can help you pull them out or a drill bit like @Murdo suggested
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HONDA-CBR-250-HURRICANE-ALL-YEAR-FUEL-FILTER-16952-KAZ-000-GENUINE-NEW-OLD-STOCK/230775985208?epid=1070938491&hash=item35bb521438:g:1VYAAOxy1klRbMiz&_sacat=0&_nkw=16952-KAZ-000&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0|0

    hirochi_16952-kaz-000.jpg



    For the crankcase breather you could use a bit of paper element from an old air filter and cut it to size, or cut a bit of lawnmower foam air filter and use that inside the plastic houising
     
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    Last edited: Aug 16, 2018
  9. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Welcome to the forum. Good to see another Melbourne-based 2fiftycc owner. There's a local club (club250) that has a few CBR250R owners in it and plenty of other quarter litre riders. The club president (@Joker) is on this forum from time to time.
     
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  10. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    mc22.JPG

    MC22 coil leads , left one does 2 and 3, right does 1 and 4
     
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  11. fiyah

    fiyah Active Member

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    Hey thanks for the warm welcome and all of the informative replies. You're all legends!!!

    @my67xr I originally thought that the black layer was something really, really bad (Old fuel or something haha). Thanks for the insight! The cracking isn't that bad, there was only one major section where it was lifting. Just weighing up the risks on removing the liner/seal. Would acetone have a bad effect on the tank? Would vinegar or a new seal kit eat through the liner? Currently researching the best solution. Considering glad wrapping the tank, taping and plugging the holes up, pouring in a solution with some abrasives, and shake. Thanks for the stripped bolt recommendation!

    @kiffsta I've got 4 sets of Chinese boots I ordered years ago. They do fit perfectly, the old ones were just slightly cracked due to the removal of the carbs. They're allot stiffer too compared to the chinese ones too. BTW Love the tiger blade :) Still drooling over photos of it.

    Again thank you all for the advice :D Hopefully have more updates soon.
     
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  12. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    My 2c on the Chinese boots ... run for the hills, they will get hot and split. Xcitebikes
    Has oem ones in stock and are worth the peace of mind
     
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  13. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    I'm pretty sure that tank liners (once they've cured) are resistant to fuel, so you could leave it and put a filter in the hose to monitor what comes down from the tank. I wouldn't think the liner will break apart or erode away. You might find it's all good. One less job to do.
     
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  14. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yeah but you can't have an open edge as fuel will get under it and it'll start to lift.
    So that area need's to be resealed as a minimum.
     
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  15. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I am with @my67xr on the liner.. 1 small pinhole and the liner is toast.. a big chunk like that out and the only option is to chemically remove it.. and start again.. POR15 kit is a good one.. just not sure how you will get the old liner out and save your paint. If you were in Sydney I would suggest Richmond Radiators.. they do a lot of tanks and 99% of them they have to save the paintwork.. good luck with it..
     
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