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Discussion Need info on I C igniter. ZXR250C

Discussion in 'Kawasaki 250cc In-line 4's' started by Big Balls, Feb 3, 2023.

  1. Big Balls

    Big Balls Active Member

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    Ok, so the story goes, i took my IC igniter out to check the readings that are in the ZXR250 manual.

    And it specifies that IF any of the reading are not within spec then it needs to be replaced. So on checking I found my IC Igniter to be faulty. So i found a second hand IC Igniter and when i received it i checked the reading and again the readings that i found told me that that I C Igniter was no good either.

    I found another second hand parts person and sent him the page to test the I C Igniter before he sent it to me. He declined.

    So I am asking anyone out there, can you please check your I C Igniter to see if you get a good readings as in the manual which are attached. One is the specs and the other is my records of my I C igniter.

    Thanks
     

    Attached Files:

    Big Balls, Feb 3, 2023
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  2. jmw76

    jmw76 Well-Known Member

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    Are we correct in assuming you removed the Ignition Control module because it was not working in the bike?
    I know it is a silly question, but thought I should ask.
     
    jmw76, Feb 3, 2023
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  3. Big Balls

    Big Balls Active Member

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    I have come to the conclusion that this maybe the root of my problem. Have replaced manifold holders, rekitted the carbs and balanced them. Check twice the camshaft setting with timing point. blocked off both vacuum pipes from carbs. New coils and leads and plugs. Plenty of voltage from battery, stator/reg working fine. Compression good and even.
    Problem is, bike starts every time without little choke. Idles really well, revs up to red line no problem. Take the bike out for a ride and it dies 500 to 1k down the road. Hence why i am doing a process of elimination. And going by what the reading that i get from the IC Igniter the manual states if not in spec replace.
    So i am asking you guys and gals out there to check your IC igniters on your bikes that are running fine to see what results you have compared to mine. The results will prove one way or another if my IC is no good or the manual testing is wrong.
    I am at a stage where i am pulling my hair out

    Any info would be greatly received.

    Thanks
     
    Big Balls, Feb 4, 2023
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  4. DannoXYZ

    DannoXYZ Well-Known Member

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    if it starts without choke, mixtures are probably too rich. Float valves may not be sealing. From moment you start bike, bowls are filling up higher and higher.

    By time you get 500-1km down road, probably have liquid petrol leaking from carbs into engine.
     
    DannoXYZ, Feb 4, 2023
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  5. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Your TCI unit is probably working fine. I'm pretty sure the ranges specified in the manual are wrong or they're being tested at the wrong scale (e.g. x10, x100, x1,000 etc).

    It does sound like you might have a fuel issue of some sort. Maybe a blockage or pinching or tank vacuum or even what @DannoXYZ suggested. In my minimal experience I have found that bikes that idle and rev cleanly in neutral, don't always behave once you take them out and put them under load. If I understand the process correctly, the TCI unit is only taking the pulses from the pickups and running them through its transistor configuration to set the ignition advance (based on revs) for the spark plugs. Again, just my thoughts, but I'd be focusing on the fuel system. Maybe run the bike down the road with the fuel petcock set to PRIME and go from there.
     
    Frankster, Feb 4, 2023
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  6. jmw76

    jmw76 Well-Known Member

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    When it dies, have you actually checked to see if you still have spark? How does it actually die? Does it just stop dead? Does it run on fewer cylinders? Does it just start to cough and splutter? Can you restart it again?
    There are so many things missing from this story that might make the problem easier to diagnose.
    In my experience the problem is usually never the ignition control module or the coils.
    Look for the obvious. Plug leads, plug caps, plugs, carb issues (which can foul plugs over time), etc.

    That said, I did have an experience on the race track where water had made its way into an Ignition Control module on a Suzuki (we had the control module mounted near the rear wheel where it was exposed to the elements) and it started playing up after being on track for a while (a dry day). When back in the pits it would start up again and appear ok.
    Back in the workshop, we were able to pull the module apart, give it a really good clean and it was all good again.
    Water contamination on the circuit board and connector was the issue.
     
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    jmw76, Feb 4, 2023
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  7. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Try going for a short ride with the tank cap open [obviously not wide open and splashing petrol] but not locked down.
    That will show if there's a blocked fuel tank breather.
    From what you describe it sounds like it's running out of fuel.

    BTW What happens after it konks out on you? How does it go restarting? Do you have to wait for a long time before attempting to start it?
     
    ruckusman, Feb 5, 2023
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  8. jmw76

    jmw76 Well-Known Member

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    Following on from @ruckusman thought, which is a good one, If you open the tank cap after a decent run, does it may a whoosh sound as the air rushes in to fill the tank vacuum?
     
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    jmw76, Feb 5, 2023
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  9. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    maelstrom, Feb 5, 2023
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