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My ZXR250A Project Log

Discussion in 'Kawasaki 250cc In-line 4's' started by DougFella, Apr 28, 2013.

  1. DougFella

    DougFella Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Looking for ZXR250a Carb Gaskets + Advice

    Hi Guys,
    Slowly... ever so slowly fixing all the problems on my ZXR250A.
    Can't say it's not half expected from a 24 year old bike.

    So next on my list is the problem of Carb Gaskets (top end where the air box intakes mate) all 4 of them are missing.

    I've looked online, Ebay, Jap-rider and other stores. Can't even find references to them let alone any for sale.

    Does anyone know where I can find them? Or have any for sale?
    Also as the bike has previously been running before I bought it and still runs (long story there) does it damage or effect the engine without the gaskets?

    Also I have a leaky tank :( where the bottom tank support connects to the tank. Any sealant products I can use that are safe for this? Or am I going to have to take it to a pro?

    I have a dozen other problems, I'll start a project log post in ZXR250 section soon might help anyone with similar problems.
     
  2. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Hi mate......
    When searching for gaskets they can also be referred to as O RINGS ......even if they arnt circular !

    Is this what u are looking for?

    [​IMG]

    So we have part no 92055-1458 (x4) which seems is superceded by 92055-1515
    http://www.cmsnl.com/products/92055-1515-ring-o_920551458/
    http://www.cmsnl.com/products/o-ring_920551515/

    Enquire at your local Kawa dealer to see if its available and what they are worth.......then search elsewhere!

    Not having them should not effect the running greatly but your airflow wont be perfect and its non filtered air.
     
  3. DougFella

    DougFella Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Thank you very much for the help :D
    I will try the local Kawa dealer but I have a feeling the reply will be the same as the other parts I have tried for... "What's a ZXR250" haha
     
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  4. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    Ask your Kwakka dealer for parts for ZX250 Balius, same engine and carbs and they were sold here so your dealer can source spares for them, Doug I'm 99% certain I have a set of gaskets that you can have, they are as rare as hens teeth and no longer available from Kawasaki , will confirm and let you know when I locate them.
     
  5. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Yea i know what u mean....!
    The secret to finding info for old bikes is to use the part number not the model of the bike....like most of the big Jap makers they make all types of machinery ....atvs,jet skis,snowmobiles etc and many different models/years/capacites of motorbikes that share the same parts....especially things like o rings etc.

    Alot of time it depends who is on the parts counter.....some are interested only if you have just purchased the latest top of the line bike and its serviced and all with them......try ringing around other dealers and quote the part number first up.
    Dont be afraid to source from overseas....I bought parts for the Fizzer from all over the world.
    Also when searching ebay look in ebay motors not just the local ebay au.
     
  6. DougFella

    DougFella Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Thanks Kiffsta,

    Yea I found out about the Balius. I also have had part numbers for all the things I've looked for up till now. I think honestly Kawwa want's nothing to do with the parts , like you said GreyImport I didn't buy their bike.

    I've had to source parts from the UK mostly so far. Only gotten basic stuff in AUS.

    Finally got round to cleaning the carbies tonight, BOY were they grimy. Need to add 4x float needles to the list now.
     
  7. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    found them, all yours, send me a PM when you want to pick it up.

    What parts are you getting from the UK ?
     

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  8. DougFella

    DougFella Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    You're a champ Kiffsta. I got a whole bunch of Misc nuts, bolts and fixing parts from an Ebay store from UK. They were cheap as chips because of exchange and I was in no rush. Took three weeks to get em by mail. The rest of the stuff I have gotten from http://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au and local shops.
    Going well so far. Fingers crossed.
     
  9. DougFella

    DougFella Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Finished pulling apart, cleaning and reassembling the carbs this-evening. +1 to a very useful guide from Kiffsta which was a very good reference as I have not worked with ones like this before.

    Carbies had years of grime and deposits built up in ever nook and cranny. Went through it with a fine eye and is looking much better now. Had to replace all of the float valve needles and seats as the old ones were not even holding the floats up and had seized from a build-up of gunk.
    I purchased them from Motorcycle spares warehouse, my order was placed Sunday night, shipped Monday and arrived in my mailbox this morning, very impressed. (Link below)
    Replaced them and am now getting a consistent 13-14mm on floats.

    Just need to get a carb balance, throw it back together and see how she runs on the cleaned carbs and new iridium plugs.
    EXCITED! :D

    Link to Float Valve Needles and Seats- (http://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au/products/khv-24l24-float-valve-needle-and-seat)
     
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  10. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Sounds like great progress......its amazing how much crap builds up inside carbs.

    When u replace the plugs ,screw the caps off the leads and check the connections arnt corroded and also the state of the leads....make sure the caps are screwing into nice shiny wire......even snip a small section off to give a new area to screw into.
    Also check,especially if the leads are no longer numbered, that the right leads go to the right cylinder....1 coil fires 1 and 4 and will have a very short lead and a very long lead (to reach cylinder 4) and the other coil fires 2 and 3 and the leads will be roughly the same length and will obviously go to the centre cylinders.
     
  11. DougFella

    DougFella Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    So bit of an update with some good and bad news.
    She's all back together now, tank sealant worked the treat so far. Engine is now getting clean fuel.
    However I am puzzled by a few things.
    I changed the Air/fuel mix back to stock when I was cleaning the carbies as they were out by about a turn.
    I booted her up for the first time since clean last night, started up first go after about a second with the choke, a smign of throttle.
    I was surprised when it fell off the choke after about twenty seconds then proceeded to idle completely smoothly?
    Usually I have to keep the choke on for at least two minutes.
    At first it was blowing a small amount of white smoke but after sixty seconds the smoke goes away and it's clean as.
    Took it down the road for one run once it had warmed up. Noticed that the engines cools down on the run on the temp gauge. It also backfired once or twice on the downrun.
    Is this a mixture problem? May be running too rich? Idea's anyone?

    I am going to do an oil change today for safe measure as well.
     
  12. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Sounds like all very good news to me .... apart from a backfire.
    The air/fuel screw is also called a pilot or mixture screw ...it only effects the idle ,which it sounds like u have just right.

    As for the backfire I would first check that there is no leaks or holes in the headers and muffler and its all connected and sealed tight.

    What fuel are u using?
     
  13. DougFella

    DougFella Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Well it never backfired before I did the work to the bike. The muffler and headers seem fine to my eyes.
    The other details I can give after a little further testing include.

    A drop in power but much more throttle response than previous. Also the engine sounds much healthier, less metallic rattle and a deeper sound out of the engine.
    The engine seems to choke a little after going for a longer run down the road. This co-en-sides with the drop in engine temperature. I thought it could be the thermostat is stuck open, but this problem wasn't occurring before.
    I am currently using 95 Octane from the Local BP. Previous I had 95 from the local Caltex.
    I did just change the oil about 10 minutes ago for safe measure. It came out far too runny and almost diluted with something. So fresh oil/filter is in now.
     
  14. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    The others guys might like to chime in here on what is best but Id be tempted to give BP 91 a go.
    You did change the fuel filter when u sorted the tank and the air filter?

    And the plugs leads are definately in the right order?
     
  15. DougFella

    DougFella Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yep everything in the fuel side of things between the tank and the exit to the carby have been replaced or reconditioned.
    Yep plugs are in the right order but I am going to have to go back and have another look at them.
    Thanks to the help of an extra set of ears we think it's not running on all 4, and a hand on the extractors semi-confirmed this. I assume this would explain the backfires and loss of power, maybe its 2 down not 1 anymore.

    Unfortunately I am getting to the limit of what the internet and my level of expertise can handle. If i can't get it running right I am getting closer and closer to the dreaded possibility of an engine rebuild.
     
  16. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    Engine rebuild, I wouldn't go that far Doug, your welcome to borrow my compression gauges to validate that all 4 have good compression. It might be worth checking the valves to ensure the shims are 100% as that can effect how they run
     
  17. DougFella

    DougFella Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Well that's good to hear Chris I don't want to go into the engine, I may have to take you up on that offer. I borrowed one from a mate at work but it was a difficult fit so couldn't get it into the holes well and get a good seal.
    It has to be something obvious I am missing that's messing with the way it's running.
    At some point there was a good reason it was rolled into the shed with only 36k on the clock. If I can fix whatever that problem is, should be on the right track.
     
  18. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Nah......keep the engine rebuild tools in the toolbox.....lotsa stuff to try yet.....I just throw things up as I think of them and I waffle on enough in my posts as it is.

    If 1 or 2 header pipes are "cold" then yes u could be short on cylinders!......they will still pick up heat from the working pipes but no where near as hot.

    Now even if u have checked leads,caps,new plugs ..... there is still a dodgy coil to consider.
    Are there 2 non firing cylinders ? are they from the same coil?
    Even though u have new plugs ....swap 1 u know is firing with the dud cylinder to check its not just a faulty plug.
    Are the plug gaps correct?

    The other test to check spark is to remove the plug , push it back into the cap and lay it on the head of the motor away from the plug hole and hit the starter ...... do it not in the bright sun so u can see what its producing......keep your hands away!
     
  19. DougFella

    DougFella Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Thanks for the advice guys

    I'll give that all a try and let you know how it goes. It's difficult yo diagnose the exact cylinders miss-firing with just my hands. At first I thought it was three, then the next time I started it three was burning and two was only warm, and then back the other way again.

    It's all very frustrating, but in an annoying, time consuming way also very fun! :D
     
  20. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Haha!.....youre hooked :dance2:

    You say 2 and 3 cylinder ?.....1 coil fires 2 and 3 so for starters have a close look at the leads and the wiring at the coil end and then do the spark test on those first ....recheck that the whole lead is in good shape and that the caps arnt cracked and they have screwed into the lead correctly .....its easy for the screw to end up in the rubber.
     
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