Project My '90 FZR250 3LN3

Made up a template for under the dash gauge's today to add a clock and volt gauge, with some room left for extra's if i need
I cut out some 2mm ally plate to mount it to the dash via the housing screw's on the back of the dash, the lower section will be double sided taped to the headlight cowl frame

The clock is the one from here, basically like a watch with it's own battery, i'm not using the backing/handlebar mount
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Motorcyc...hash=item41cc9af373:m:mHB3Y3ytnwxFdheSGFguu8A
And the volt gauge is a cut down one of these, it has blue light up digit's
I cut the part off that goes into the cigarette lighter socket, soldered on a couple of new wire's, and fitted a grommet to seal it up
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-Di...096723?hash=item2f0cbbcb13:g:1AUAAOSwwrtZ2398

Both have a dab of silicon on the back to hold them securely to the panel, volt gauge is mounted with 3M double sided tape as well

 

I tried the clock mounted to the bar's on the XT250,
but doing 80km/h up a hill the day i fitted them, the clock popped out the housing and into my lap, luckily i was quick enough to catch it and put it into my pocket.
They might be ok if you use a piece of 3M double sided tape or a dab of silicon to help secure it in the housing, the silicon tape and silicon band that come's with it can be a bit funny and it can come out the housing easy.
I've had the clock 3 month's now and it keep's good time

 

The clock part came out, not the housing off the bars.
Might not like the 250 single vibrations?

 

Yeah i have a digital 37mm oil temp gauge in the shed too

One of these-
https://m.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-12V-37...3A1ead0dd315f0a629ab1abb94fffe231e%7Ciid%3A12

 

No grub screw to hold the clock in on mine, it has a silicon ring around the clock that slip's inside a recess on the holder that's it

 

Been doing a bit of riding around town over the last few day's, i've done 193km's so far and still hasn't reached reserve yet so might be better again L/Km.
Will have to take it out for a decent country ride and see if i can beat the 230km's i got a little while ago, before needing to switch it to reserve
Still haven't retuned it either, i can smell a little bit of fuel sometime's when pulling up so may need to lean it a touch.

 

Gave the fork's an oil change today
Replaced the dirty/smelly oil with some fresh Castrol 15w oil
Also bead blasted the fork bottom's and gave them a coat of silver.
Had a problem undoing 1 fork top bolt, it was butchered before i tried undoing it, but even using a 6 point socket the head almost turned off and i ended up using a centre punch to get it started, so i'll have to find another one to replace it.
Also need another front brake caliper plastic cover, 1 was missing when i bought the bike.
Next job might be to clean and repaint the caliper's

 

Yeah i've been watching some on ebay for a while.
The progressive spring's in it now already have 20mm preload, so i guess i could go another 10mm if i need to.
I'm 66kg so don't think i'd need heavier spring's

Just about to take it out for a quick ride in a minute, still 28 degree's here.

 

Front end feel's pretty good now, doesn't dive as much, corner's feel better too.
I'll take it out for a decent ride and see how it goes

 

I got the chance to do a bit more fine tuning last week,
i now have the mixture screw's set at 2 turn's out now and the engine is sounding better again, (still haven't rebalanced the carb's again) the FZR has got a fair burble through the exhaust now, similar sound to a flash tuned R6 or R1.
I called in to my uncle's place the other day and he didn't recognise the sound of my bike.
Not sure if there's a difference with the Keyster jet's and needle's, or my K&N air filter, or the cop ignition coil's, but with the mixture screw's at 2 turn's out that's 1 turn leaner than the standard carby setting's.

Fuel usage is looking good now,
i got 238km's with the tap just in the on position, then had to switch it to reserve, when it got close to empty i had done 348km's and had a touch left in the bottom of the tank, this was only riding it around town (but not pussying it either)
That work's out to 29km's per litre around town.
Looking forward to seeing the Km's/L result's of a country ride next

I've been out and riding a bit over the last week, getting used to the firmer front end now, and am using more of the front brake's, no longer stressing about the front end diving so am a lot happier with the front end

 

I have alway's run it on BP 98.
My car's get an extra 100km's or so from the 98 so i use the same in all of my bike's, even the 2 stroke's.
The FZR's are a pretty high comp engine running at 12/1 compression so i think it deserve's the extra octane, it's only $3 extra for a tank full.

The biggest thing that made a difference was fitting new Keyster carby rebuild/
jet kit's, then setting the float height's/fuel level's, then tuning it to suit


If you have good/new needle's and seat's in your carby's then a leaking tap shouldn't be much of a problem if it does leak.
Check out my post #357 in this thread, it cover's just about everything i've done to the carby's to get them to this stage

Speaking of fuel tap's, i Nickel plated my fuel tap surround last week, look's a lot better than it did when i got it
And it work's so smooth now with the Litetek seal kit put through it
I rarely turn the fuel tap off as well.