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Help MC22 wheel painting

Discussion in 'Honda 250cc In-line 4's' started by jimv50, Apr 17, 2020.

  1. jimv50

    jimv50 Well-Known Member

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    I'm going to spend some of my corona time at home painting the wheels.

    I don't want to powdercoat but will stick with the original R134 Fighting Red colour.
    Any advice on acrylic vs cellulose? sanding prep work, how many coats of primer, top coat and is lacquer needed?
    Jim
     
  2. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    You could paint the wheel's with Acrylic, but it really need's a decent/hard top coat to help stop scratches.
    You can buy an Isocyanate Free Clear which is very tough and it's designed to go directly over Acrylic or basecoat's, i have used it over aerosol enamel's too.
    You can also use KBS Diamond Finish Clear, this was designed for applying over raw and polished alloy's and can also be used over any base coat's and acrylic's
    https://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/product/diamond-finish-clearcoat/
    Auto paint shop's sell a true 2K clear in an aerosol too, there's normally a button on the bottom that you need to press in to mix the hardener with the paint, then once mixed you have 2 hour's max to use it before it start's to cure, you will need a respirator mask for this 2K though.

    Like any prep work make sure any previously painted surface's have been scuffed back with a grey scotchbrite pad as a minimum to remove the gloss and give the paint something decent to stick to.
    If you want you can wet rub your part's with 320 or 400 w&d with lot's of water to get rid of any paint chip's and mark's and it help's to flatten the surface which will give you a shinier flatter paint job

    Once prepped give it a couple of coat's of etch primer, then you can either use some decent primer to build up the surface so it can be rubbed and flattened more if needed, or you can paint the colour directly over the etch primer after it's been 320 wet and dried rubbed or scuffed back with grey scotchbrite.

    Colour wise you need to give it a thin coat first, and let it dry approx 20 min's, then you can put on 2 or 3 wetter coat's ( let it dry between coat's).
    Once you are happy with the coverage give it a final wet coat and let it dry for 20 minute's minimum

    Now it's ready for the clear coat's, same thing again, give it 1 light coat, leave for 10 minute's then give it 2 or 3 wet coat's (leaving it to dry between coat's) and make sure your last coat is wet so you don't need to polish it once it's finished.


    Try and stick to one brand of paint and thinner's if you can,
    as some don't like to play together and can end up frying up and causing all sort's of problem's
    Also when painting make sure you have fully covered surface's, eg a full coat of etch primer, a full coat of primer before the next colour coat goes on, if there's a few little spot's that have rubber through that can also cause problem's eg sinkback and fryup's etc
     
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  3. jimv50

    jimv50 Well-Known Member

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    what !!!!!!
     
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  4. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I had to mention lot's of water, as some people don't use enough and it dull's the w&d paper too quick
    Also let the grit do the cutting, never use too much pressure
     
  5. jimv50

    jimv50 Well-Known Member

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    My joke fell flatter than the gorgeous Scarlett sj.jpg
     
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