Likely needing a new battery for the fizzer has got me looking at Lithium alternatives - DIY is doable - I actually disagree with his conclusions I do already have balance chargers and can deal with bugger high output Lithium batts. simply and safely It's long - over 45 minutes, but amongst youtubers he is a spectacular exception - keeps it moving along and informative the whole time
I did do some research on aliexpress and this is one BMS that looks well up to the task for a 4S LiFePo4 battery - especially the momentary discharging current of 350A https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pr...cing-for-car-lifepo4/1821822_32752513362.html This thread has some great info on different rectifiers so it should be possible to match up a rectifier with the correct voltage output for the LiFePo4 battery management board to work together harmoniously https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/shindengen-regulator-rectifiers.10005/
Tricky part about these is they really should have over-discharge protection circuit. None of off-the-shelf batteries I looked at Yuasa, Optima, Anti-Gravity, etc. had built-in over-discharge protection. It's possible to turn off bike and leave lights on. And in 10-15 minutes, you'll have discharged battery to point where it's destroyed and won't ever charge up again. That BMS circuit looks great because it includes over-discharge protection that'll disconnect battery from harness to protect it when voltage drops below certain critical level.
I tried one on my Hyosung 250 v twin what a wast of time I was told these could turn over a 1000 cc v twin mine stuttered at the best Changing back to the lead acid and the bike worked as well as could be expected I am yet to be convinced Having said that the hi tech battery was £70 from ebay and felt so light i could not believe it would be any good fair play money returned no argument Trev
Sounds like that battery wasn't fully charged - I've still got the little portable battery boost pack and it's started cars no problems - the battery inside it tiny compared to a lea acid
...they really should have over-discharge protection... I've been using lithium batteries for 3 years now and the only issue I ever had was when I accidentally used a normal battery charger on one. The next time I went to charge it, it bulged like an acid battery does when it overcharges. You really should use a purpose built unit, as they can 'talk' to the battery and ensure no issues occur. I've used only SSB Powersport batteries of differing size and amp/hour ratings. I have them in my race bike (ZXR250), NT400, NT650, VT250F and Spada. The unit in the ZXR is 12V7AH and is rated at 240CCA. I used this battery on the salt bike and it did 2 consecutive runs without any issues. Both my Salt Bike and Drag bike run without a charging circuit, so other than starting the bike, they only draw current to fire the coils (COP). I've never tried to do an entire drag meet without charging it, but I'm almost certain I could. I use a CTEK unit for charging all of my Lithium batteries. Aussie link below. https://tinyurl.com/y4ad55q9
The battery was fully charged before I fitted it I gave it 24 hours of charge also the battery was fitted with a led indicator that stated when pressed the battery level it was at 100% I will try and look out the listing and send you the details I am not against new tech just want working tech Trev
DAELIM SV 250S3 2012-2014 Shido Lithium Battery LTX12-BS ( 1332437875 This is what I ordered and found to be wanting Trev
Yes, be careful of charger. Just basic smart-charger will work with basic current/float mode. A lot of newer multi-mode chargers has desulfation mode that sends +30v AC through battery to break up sulphate-crystals on surface of lead-plates on lead-acid batteries. This mode will destroy lithium batteries.
Yeah, that's one of those generic lithium batteries re-marketed under various brand-names. I had TPE version that can put out 50amps, much less than claimed 120cca. That was fine for starting my Ninja 250 race-bike for first 2-years. Then I made mistake of transferring it it to my 250 street-bike. That worked fine for several months, but then I accidentally left headlights on... and that was it, kaput! Taking it apart, I found 4x 18650 countrefeit A123 cells. They actually worked fine except for lack of over-discharge protection. No BMS for balancing either. One of cells was fried from over-discharge and completely dead. I replaced it with genuine A123, balanced charged offline, re-installed and using same battery back in my race-bike for past 2-years. So going on 4-years now with complete rebuild in between. An 8-cell version of this battery should be fine at 100cca (or 4x larger 22650, 32700 cells). Biggest bikes typically need around 60-70amps. Above that you're heading into auto territory. But again, lack of balancing-charging and over-discharge protection makes for very unreliable battery.
If you need a special charger how does the battery function with the standard motorcycle charging system ? As I have said before the inbuilt battery indicator showed the battery was 100% charged ! The Hyosung started ok on its standard lead acid battery .Using the new technology was an attempt to move forward re improved starting etc Trev
Speculating, but it sounds like you may have got one with a dead cell I had a two big drone LiHV batteries, 4.35 volts per cell, which are supposed to have overcharge protection built into the head unit which dropped a cell - they only use a dumb charger which outputs 26.3 volts - overcharged the remaining cells to 4.85 volts which is catch fire territory, fortunately they didn't as we all know how that ends up Left me incredibly unimpressed That is part of why I like the original solution which I found, first he uses LiFePo4 which is safe, plus their power density is adequate and with a proper balance charger you can diagnose what's going on with the individual cells should there be a problem Dealt with enough troublesome drone batteries in my time, when they go wrong, things fall from the sky with potentially catastrophic consequences - knowing that all of the cells are healthy is peace of mind There's a multitude of RC chargers out there good for charging all manner of batteries, they're really useful
...If you need a special charger how does the battery function with the standard motorcycle charging system? Not my area of expertise, but I believe a Regulator/Rectifier does a little more than just "charge the battery". I do know that when a R/R fails bad things tend to happen to the battery.
yeah, you may have gotten bum battery. What happened when you tried to start bike with it? Did you push test-button again to see if it was still at 100%. I usually pick vendors with high +98% rating on eBay. They tend to refund me or send replacement promptly. Note that you don't need special charger. It's special chargers that destroys them. Fully-charged state on LiFePO4 battery is 16.8v. Bike's charging system usually outputs 14.5-15.0v, which will tend to undercharge this battery. Which is fine because longest-life is achieved by charging them to 85-90%. I typically add voltmeter to all my bikes to monitor R/R's functionality. When they go bad, best-case is they just put out low-voltage. However, lots of times, they output high-voltage +20v, which will fry lead-acid as well as lithium batteries.
16.8V is LiPO charge state for 4S - 4 cells in series 14.4 - 14.6 is the charge state for LiFePo4 4S Sorry not trying to be a prat - that's why I though the youtuber was clever having chosen 4S LiFePO4 - safe and within the correct voltage range for a regulator outputting 14.5 volts, so although the burst current C-Rating with LiFePo4 is lower - he's got enough juice to start the bike up and the BMS take care of the charging requirements so the battery cells don't get hammered
I cannot remember if i tested the battery again but it was on the bike for two weeks and it was always touch and go back to the lead acid normal operation resumed Trev
