Project KICKER's MC21 Project

So one problem I had was the fact the bike was totaled (this guy must have binned it pretty bad). So as far as I could tell, all the fairing brackets were bent and I tried to fix some of them but I'd never get them perfect again. So I opted to make some out of aluminum which was also lighter as well. And also since the upper and lower were meant for a MC18, the holes were wrong anyway. So I had to make up something to attach the choke to. Originally I was gonna use a choke from a MC22 but I liked the MC21 one because you can set it to 1/4 or 1/2 really easily. I also haven't decided if I'm keeping the coolant bottle but I think I will for now. It's in the way a little bit though.

 

So it seems the rubber intake still leaks an is causing one cylinder to misfire so next time I'm at supercheap I'll grab some silicone to put in and seal it. I'll also plug the boost bottle holes on the old one and stop using them because they get in the way and seem to not do much anyway.

 

So spent another hour or so fiddling with the NSR. The rear tail now mounts well. The problem was that (from what I could tell), all there was at the tank mounts was the rubber piece. And when the body work was on, the sides hit the frame. So it looked a bit crap. The solution was I had a piece of a foot peg mount that was broken, so I plan to ground the sides down and use it as a spacer. I also decided to put the bolt from underneath and have a nut on top as it's too much of a pain in the butt to line everything up.



Then back to the upper/lower. The problem is the LHS seems like it's bowed. And really, I can't see how this should be happening. I mean, even if the brackets are slightly too wide. So right now my plan is to use the dremel to cut away the horizontal part so it is less rigid near the top and hopefully it will conform more the way I want it. If it was symmetrical it would be fine but I guess something could have rested on it at some point.

 

So because I got a front end that was used for racing, it didn't have the brake switch for the front brake. So I was a little worried because the master cylinder is from a GSXR that it would be hard to find the right switch. But luckily Honda and Suzuki use the same switch and I found one on eBay for $2. Suzuki OEM had it for $20 + shipping. So pretty stoked about that. I also bought a new fuel filter because I think the fuel tank is rusty inside and keeps making the carbs dirty (hence the funnel in the above pics). So I'll need to look into fixing that too. Or keep the fuel topped up like I did with my MC22.

 

Well funnily enough it does have an inline fuel filter but it wasn't catching all the debris. So I bought another one but I think I will still look into coating the inside with something. I have a borescope so I'm gonna have a look inside.

I have a power valve servo but I just want to double check if it works. I'll let you know if it functions the way my working one does (I say this because this one was the original and I had another one to replace it. So I never confirmed if the servo was broken or the PGM or something else).

 

So I plugged in my spare MC18 RC Servo like I suspected it doesn't seem to work. I would suggest looking on Yahoo Auctions. you could probably find one for $20.

 

I was back at it on the NSR today. This time I was trying to figure out why the LHS cylinder is still being weird. After some stuffing around, somehow the bolt that locks the slide 'rocker arm' thingy to the shaft loosened and was sitting on top of the slide on the LHS carb. Luckily it couldn't go into the engine! So looks like everything engine-wise is looking good. I also gave my leak down tester a proper go so hopefully it seals the exhausts up better.


Made up a plug like this and have an o-ring siliconed to the back of it. Then a small length of steel U section angle presses it down. We'll see if it works tomorrow!



I normally just hang the carbs like that when checking the jets ( don't have to remove the cables, just unplug a few things) so I didn't realise the slide wasn't moving til I ran the bike without the airbox.



The loose bolt!

 

So haven't done much with the NSR except try and fix the body work and today made a fairly "now it makes sense" discovery. So I was annoyed that that the rear tail was wonky. And everything was a bit twisted. Then I looked at Paul from Tyga's NSR300 and well, seems like it's normal to be wonky. So what I'm gonna do is get body filler and make up a mounting point that is centre.


As for the lopsided body work on the rear cowl section, well, I guess that's just a design feature!

 

So spent some time on the beast today. Not sure if the Tyga guys intended on having the kickstand removed or simply it's because it's originally meant for an Mc18, but the kickstand hit the body work so I decided to just cut it off. Ended up looking decent I think. And the cut of piece could be used as a Ducati-style winglet! I also figured out how to make the rear tail fit and not hit the frame by using to pieces of rubber under the fuel tank as well as one piece on top to raise it up. So now when you sit on it, it feels rigid. Just need rubber on the sub-frame too.

 

So once again working on the NSR today doing the biggest job, fitting the MC18 pipes to the MC21. I originally had an MC18, bought the pipes (and front fairing) and then got the MC21. I tried to sell the pipes but no buyers so I just decided to use them. I prefer the tight packaging too, but I think there would be performance losses (2 stroke pipes are supposed to be as straight as possible). The only thing is to make up plates on the rear mounts of the expansion chambers. I also am going to make up mounts to hold the silencers as I don't really like having no support.

Anyway, the RHS pipe (which is for the LHS cylinder) was fairly easy. A bit tricky to line it up so it clears the swing arm but was straight forward. The plates look pretty dodgy but they are made from scrap offcuts. I'll pretty them up later. The other side was more tricky because where the pipe bolts up was angled. So the plate needed a twist as well as a dog leg. Anyway, it lined up well but it's not quite right but I am gonna do the silencer hangers next and then revisit the plate (just needs some tweaking).

So what is left is to:

Remove the dent on the tank (otherwise fill it with body filler)
Fix up the inside of the tank (ordered the stuff).
Fix up the rear caliper and put fluid in.
Straighten the upper body work with expoxy and plate.
Make up a rectifier, inidcator relay and fuse box mount (next to the airbox, coming off the subframe)
Re-tape up the wiring harness.
Paint it!

So not much left on it before it's a go!