My CBR250RR has brake disks will not pass a roadworthy, they are under the 3.5mm service limit, I have sourced a pair of MetalGear disks from Xcitebikes.com.au as well as 2 pairs of brake pads. I thought I would do a quick write up on how I swapped them out. **Parts Required** 2 x Brake Disks 2 x sets of brake pads **Tools Required** Front and Rear Stand Allen Key 12mm Socket and rachet or 12mm spanner Lock Tite or similar JIS screwdriver G-clamp Rubber Mallet Flat bladed screw driver 24mm socket or spanner for front axle rags degreaser Step 1- Using a 12mm socket or spanner, loosen the 4 bolts at the lower end of your fork legs, these bolts lock the axle in and we need to loosen it to free up the front wheel. Step 2 - Using a paddock stand or similar, raise the rear of the bike, then use the front stand to elevate the front wheel off the ground. Step 3 - Use a 12mm socket to remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper on, its easier if one is removed to get the wheel off. Step 4 - Using a 24mm socket, loosen the lock nut off the front axle and push it through which will release the front wheel, you can slide a screwdriver into the axle end to help remove it. Step 5 - Place the wheel on and old tyre or somewhere where you wont scratch your new disks and use a allen key to remove the 6 hex bolts that hold the disk to the wheel. ( there may be a audile crack as the lock tite releases its grip) Step 6 - Use some degreaser and remove the factory coating on the disk. Step 7 - Place the disk on the wheel, using some locktite insert the hex bolts and torque them to spec. Step 8 - Rinse and Repeat the other side. Step 9- Using a flat bladed screw driver, remove the cover on the brake caliper pin that holds the pads in Step 10 - Using an allen key, remove the retaining pin to free up the pads and remove them. Step 11 - Using a JIS screwdriver, remove the 2 JIS screws from the master clyinder as well as the cap and the plastic cover. Step 12 - Using a rag, wrapt it round the master cylinder to ensure that when we wind the pistons in, that no brake fluid overflows on your bikes paintwork. step 13 - using a G clamp, slowly push your brake pistons back into the caliper, this will make room for your new disk and pads. step 14 - give the new brake pads a quick rub on some concrete to rough them up and insert them into the caliper then refit the pin and tighten using an allen key. Also refit the flat bladed screwdriver bolt cover. Step 15 - repeat on the other side Step 16 - refit your wheel to the forks ensuring the new disks slide easily into the caliper that's still attached to the fork leg. ( Don't forget to use the spacers, they are different sizes on each side) Step 17 - insert your axle and do up the 24mm to spec, reattach the other caliper to the fork leg. Step 18 - remove the 4 bolts at the bottom of the fork leg, apply locktite and then do them up and torque to spec. Step 19 - check fluid level in your master cylinder and if required, use a syringe to remove access fluid to get the levels correct. Step 20 - refit the master cylinder cover, pump the brake ever to bring your pistons back out to the new pads and test your brakes are operational. Step 21 - time for a test ride taking it nice and easy while the new pads bed in. This is a relatively simple job, but if you are unsure then get your bike shop to do it, after all brakes are there to stop you and need them working. But if you have a red hot go an complete it, you can save $200 in labour. Tips - using a non JIS screw driver may result in you ruining your master cylinder bolts.
