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Project GSF250P Slingshot rework...

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Bab, Oct 13, 2017.

  1. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    Make sure you get the right cdi for your bike, yours is a 32900-11d10 , the 32900-11d30 won’t work as it is for a later bike

    You have to wonder why so many of these cdi”s fail, would be great if we could find out what component failed in it , there are so many dead bandits due to cdi failure.
     
  2. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    At a guess i'd say a transistor or a capacitor, but i've seen diode's fail in ignition box's too
     
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  3. Bab

    Bab Well-Known Member

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    I'll be purchasing a CDI once I can find a source that will assure me the unit is equivalent to the original 11D10. Murdo tipped me towards a vendor in Europe I haven't investigated yet. I have contacted 2 others, one replied they are no longer producing them, the other won't ship to Canada, and I'm wanting to know why. They haven't responded yet.
    Once I have one and we get the bike running I'll take the faulty CDI apart to see what's inside. I too am curious as to what fails in these units because I believe this is the main reason this bike was abandoned in the first place. If it would be possible to diagnose the board and repair it, that would make for a very interesting thread. Now I have myself wondering, if the CDI is indeed the problem, should I have a spare on the shelf?
     
  4. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Have you tried yahoo auctions japan or any of the third party sites that offer shipping from there? You may be able to find a good 2nd hand unit
     
  5. Bab

    Bab Well-Known Member

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    I'm not aware of Yahoo Auctions, Linkin. I'll explore that avenue thanks. I'm hesitant to try used electronics, in this instance because as discussed, they have a failure rate that does not instill a lot of confidence in me. If it does work, how long will it last? If it doesn't work I'm on the other side of the world and I fear a warranty claim from a private seller may be difficult to implement. After all there is you and I, and a few others that have scruples, I'm just not sure who the others might be. I think by buying new it should increase the odds of success in acquiring a unit that may last longer, and if I do have a need to make any claim, perhaps Paypal or E-Bay may champion my cause. This is new territory for me, and I'm about to learn a lot in a hurry, with hopes the lessons are not toooo expensive.
    Regards...
     
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  6. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    If you have the part number, try jp-parts as well, they offer brand new parts if they are available, but you might not like the eye-watering prices for some things
     
  7. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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  8. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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  9. Bab

    Bab Well-Known Member

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    Has anyone any experience or dealings with Lixianda? They are selling electronics on various web shopping sites. They talk the talk, and their prices are attractive. However I've not been able to contact them directly in order to confirm their "LXD-GJ74A" CDI is equivalent to the original 32900-11D10.
     
  10. Bab

    Bab Well-Known Member

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    My Bike:
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    I've bought the CDI for the Slingshot from Lixianda. Now we wait...some more.
    When I removed the passenger seat to access the CDI, I was surprised to find the tool kit. As lame as it was, it did contain a spark plug wrench which made life much easier while I was checking out my compression. Prior to that I struggled with a wild assortment of sockets, drivers, universals and plastic tubing from my tool box to get the plugs in and out. I did decide to modify the wrench to simplify the process further. I took a 1/2" nut and chamfered the flats on one end to allow me to use my vice to press it into the small end. I then took a bolt with some locktight applied to the threads and inserted it.

    IMG_20171109_160359.jpg IMG_20171109_161415.jpg IMG_20171109_160743.jpg IMG_20171109_160541.jpg IMG_20171109_160634.jpg

    This allows me to use a compact wrench, in this case a ratchet style to rotate the plug socket, or if necessary a socket and driver. Much easier.
    In the mean time I have received the fork seals, and have changed out the old ones with out any hassle other than the dust seals were a loose fit that I wasn't content with. The original caps fit with a tighter interference in the leg pocket than the new ones. After a close scrutiny, and finding no glaring damage to the wiper edge, I chose to use them again. The topic of changing fork seals is to be found anywhere you look, so I don't have much to add there. If you look in the repair manuals they will refer you to the special tool used to set the air gap above the oil. Following you will see my slant on the special tool described as part (#51149-BAB-000, Baster, turkey). It consists of items one might find on hand in their garage / shop / kitchen. Starting with the siphon and bulb assembly I used a drill bit to open the end and make a friction fit of a length of stainless tubing. Over the tubing I fit a rubber bumper pad used in cabinet manufacturing. A simple O-ring would work, or even a wind of tape. First I clamped the fork assembly in an upright position.By setting the rubber stop at a length corresponding to the air gap, I filled the fork with oil, worked the air out of the piston, inserted the tube down the side of the fork until the rubber stopped against the side, then drew off the surplus oil appropriately.

    IMG_20171111_154851.jpg IMG_20171111_154907.jpg IMG_20171111_154954.jpg IMG_20171111_155618.jpg IMG_20171111_155319.jpg IMG_20171111_155338.jpg IMG_20171111_160004.jpg

    I chose the steel tubing over plastic hose because it is rigid and would give me a more accurate result. I should note that certain artistic liberties were taken to illustrate my methods. I now have the forks assembled, and will begin the installation tomorrow. Regards...
     
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  11. Bab

    Bab Well-Known Member

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    I don't know how much I should add to this thread because the more I learn about the bike the more I realise I don't. I suppose we just keep peeling the onion.
    I'm curious to know just how many of us have a 250 Bandit / Slingshot? What happened with Suzuki when they manufactured these that so much confusion surrounded them? Did they just sweep the parts off the production lines of other bikes and build Slingshots? Maybe they canned the designer of the bike, and in turn he decided he wasn't going to train another replacement (experience talking now) and the end result was chaos.
    How detailed should I go with my findings before I become a nuisance, and bore you?
    For example, when I pulled the front calliper off to do the fork seals, I realised a rubber boot on it had went to mush. To replace it I had to find a part number. As I dug deeper into the parts lists I found my calliper did not match the parts listed for the 250P bandit. Close inspection of the pads led me to notice there is no pin to insert into the casting to lock the pads in place. I believe it was in a thread created by Joker that lead me to some of the 250 Bandit parts lists, and sorry I don't recall who suggested looking at the '93 Across list. This is where I found what I believe to be the correct calliper for my bike.
    Now I have a number for the parts (boot) that I go to a Suzuki dealer (Canada) who previously stated they have no listings for anything to do with the 250 Bandit / Slingshot. With out mentioning what bike the part was off they punched in the number and told me the boot would be there in a week for a price closely comparable to what I could buy it from Bikebandit, considering the $ exchange and shipping.
    The air box, and filter is a similar scenario. I must thank a teacher I had in highschool for she taught me the importance of research skills in the library. I have stated many times that if you can read you can do anything because somewhere there is a book written explaining how to do it. However, be careful with the dentistry!
    Now I do know I'm rambling. The point I was trying to make while I was still lucid was where to find the front calliper parts if your bike is typical of mine. Thanks all...
     
  12. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Don't give up Babs, I like to read you posts.
    Ask any questions you like. We may not know the answer, but could point you to the right 'library' to find the answer.
     
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  13. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I agree with Murdo Babs... I enjoy your posts and how you go about making your own special tools etc.
    Keep up the good fight... eventually that Suzuki will give in and play nicely for you... :)
     
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  14. Bab

    Bab Well-Known Member

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    I installed the assembled fork tubes with no real issues, however the axel would not line up at first. I quickly realised the fender mount was tightened up causing slight alignment distortion. The instant I released the 4 screws all came into alignment. I checked for clearances in the bracket holes where the screws are located and found there was lots ensuring the binding would not return.
    The saddle I have the bike mounted on made the wheel installment very easy. I didn't have to lift / hold the wheel but just rolled it between the forks, lowered the lift until the axel lined up. With the bike raised again, I tightened everything up. Before I installed the brake calliper I used the poor man's stethoscope to check the bearings. All was smooooth. I didn't want anything dragging so I could hear the bearings without any distractions. With the caliper installed and brakes pumped up, the spedo lubed and hooked up the front end is done.
    The chain showed rust on the sides of the links in places. This is because in other places you couldn't see anything for the grunge. I dropped the chain off and rolled it up to fit a pan and soaked it in a degreaser while I peeked at the sprockets. They showed wear, but nothing to be concerned with. YEAAA! We celebrate these findings with another beer. With said beer in hand I began to scrape and clean the grunge that had slung off the chain behind the primary sprocket. I suspect previous owners didn't know how to lube a chain properly, or they never got on their knees to do any cleaning.
    With the beer almost done, I grabbed a toothbrush (an old one, Diane cleans the toilet with my good one) and proceeded to scrub the dirt and dried lube of the links. The degreaser I used to clean the chain with is compatible with the O-rings, and I found they were all present and in good shape. I hung the clean chain up and measured it for stretch. All's good, too soon to celebrate again. I mounted a small wire wheel in my drill press, and once the chain was dry I proceeded to brush the sides of the chain to clean up some of the rust. I hung the chain up again, used a rag with WD-40 on it to wipe it down and remove any dust. I now run a bead of chain lube down each side of the links, front and back and with a clean rag removed the excess.
    IMG_20171006_104521.jpg IMG_20171109_160251.jpg IMG_20171109_160341.jpg
    My efforts with the wire wheel didn't net me much in the results asthetically, but it was something to do while I wait for the CDI to arrive. All the links are free and loose with the exception of the friction the O-rings create.
    Before I install the chain, and while the wheel is free I listened to the bearings. My stomach dropped, and the sphincter puckered when I heard a cyclical grinding noise. It didn't sound good, but with astute observation skills I discovered the bucket I used to collect the scrapings from the chain casing was dragging on the tire (tyre) Once again I was rewarded with another beer. All is well with the bearings, so the chain goes on, and the brake calliper goes home. Brakes get pumped up and now I wait...
    I wonder, would my success rate increase if I celebrated small victories with Fosters?
     
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  15. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Well done, hmm I like your idea of celebrating small victories with a beer.
    Strangely Fosters isn’t a popular beer here these days so I would just stick to your local brew.
    Keep up the good fight Babs



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     
  16. Bab

    Bab Well-Known Member

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    I just can't leave it alone. A couple of weeks ago I received the air filter I ordered (Germany, $23 US with shipping). The first thing I noticed about it upon opening the package was the fact it had no mice or nests in it. When I first pulled the gas tank, I noticed there were assorted fasteners holding the filter in. This kind of thing bugs me so I bought 6 of M6 screws. In my location finding true metric "button head" fasteners are a pain to find. The ones I bought are a pan head and easy to find, but In some instances the thickness of the pan head is a nuisance. So I chuck them in my drill press with the head sticking out, run the drill press, and grind a profile I prefer with a soft disk in my hand grinder. The results are a reasonable facsimile illustrated below, as well as the larger side fasteners I made for the battery plate. A touch of paint from my paint marker and the fasteners all match.
    IMG_20171113_103515.jpg IMG_20171113_103727_hdr.jpg IMG_20171113_105527.jpg
    The original screw is the top one in the left photo, the others are unaltered, ground, and finally shortened. The original screw does have a wider head and would have definite benefits, but I hate having to carry 3 or 4 different drivers to remove 4 fasteners. The right photo shows the filter installed.
    I believe the bike should have a shroud to protect the filter opening from debris falling into it, but I suspect it was taken of in the belief the bike would breath better and thus run better with out the restriction. I fear I'll end up cobbling something up to resemble this missing piece.
    Thanks to all for your interest and encouragement...
     
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  17. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    > 11.5 kg/cm2 for this bike... reckon there's a sticking point already... in my opinion I wouldn't go spending big until you can rectify that... has the potential to be a major hiccup.
     
  18. Bab

    Bab Well-Known Member

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    Joker, you have been an advocate of caution towards this bike from the start, obviously from your experiences. What I find moving about your comments is no one here has anything to prove. The effort to voice our opinions on this site seems to be motivated out of genuine concern for fellow riders. I sincerely thank you for your cautions, and comments.
    At this point the most money has been spent on the CDI. All in to present, we have spent $440 including the purchase of the bike. Once we get the CDI, we will arrive to where we "s**t or get off the pot". At that point I might need to pick your brain, if I may.
    Thanks again...Bab
     
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  19. Wozza

    Wozza Active Member

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    Ahhh I wouldnt call it yet... would like to see the figures after its been run for a while and with some heat in it...
     
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  20. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Yea get it out on the road and running under some load with some decent revs
     

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