Pinned FZR250R - How to change your CAM CHAIN w/o splitting cases

Cam chain part# 94590-85112
Rocker Cover Gasket part# 1HX-11193-00

Step 1 - Disassembly & removal of obstacles.

You will need to move/remove:

Fuel tank
Airbox
Carburetors
Radiator
Rubber engine cover
Spark plugs/leads





Step 2 - Remove rocker cover & gasket, and don't forget to remove the cam chain tensioner!!



Step 3 - Remove stator cover & rotate until you get the timing at TDC (top dead centre) on the compression stroke for cylinder 1. Use the photos for reference







Step 4 - Count no. of links between camshaft sprockets. There should be 6 links between the top/centre of each sprocket. You must check which sprocket teeth are facing upwards out of the engine, and count the links on/after them.



Step 5 - Break your new cam chain. You will need a chain breaker kit suitable for cam chains. The one in the picture is an EMGO kit.



Step 6 - Secure the chain so that it cannot slip off the sprockets or the crank, or fall into the engine. We used zip ties and some solder wire to secure it



Step 7 - Break the old cam chain. Be very careful not to drop the cam chain pin into the engine!



Step 8 - Remove the cam guides and camshafts. Keep them in the correct order & location.



Step 9 - Join the new chain onto the old chain. We used thin strong wire to hold the links together. Feed the new chain in and the old chain out by rotating the stator with a socket



Step 10 - Replace camshafts & cam guides, join new cam chain. Ensure that the camshafts are in correctly and that the timing marks line up when the stator is on the T mark. Make sure that 6 links are between the cam shaft sprocket teeth that point upwards (in relation to the engine). This is the hardest part as the cams like to move and you may jump a link on the chain. The cam guides can help keep the cams in the proper position.

Torque for the cam guide bolts is 10NM (ten newton-meters)

You will need something to hold the pin in place if you are doing this with the engine in the frame. We used zip ties to hold the pin.



The chain breaking/joining tool should peen the pin for you.





Step 11 - Reinstall the cam chain tensioner. Push the ratchet all the way in, attach the cam chain tensioner body onto the engine & tighten. Insert springs and ratchet bolt. Have someone hold the cam chain in place so that it does not slip.

Tighten the bolt on the tensioner. You may not hear the ratchet moving - if so, rotate the crank & cams a little bit via the stator and it should tension the chain. You will hear the ratchet clicking.

Step 12 - Rotate the engine via the stator a few times to ensure that there is no binding and that the timing is correct. Once you have confirmed that everything is OK, rotate the stator again so that you end up at TDC for Cyl #1 on the compression stroke (ie, the timing mark on the stator and the cams line up). Double check no. of links between the camshaft sprockets.

If the engine stops and you cannot rotate it forward, rotate it backwards to the timing marks and recheck your timing & no. of links between the camshaft sprockets.

All you have to do now is replace the stator cover, and the rocker cover & gasket. You have finished the cam chain change successfully.

Put everything else listed above back in place correctly (including fluids), and you should be able to start the bike. Do not rev it up, keep the RPM as low as possible without stalling (little choke as the engine will be cold). Let the bike idle for a few minutes to ensure that everything is OK.

Go for a test ride, take note of any strange sounds, and how the bike feels. My bike runs a lot tighter after the new cam chain. You will be able to hear any other noises such as bearings, clutch noise etc now and work on those as necessary.

CCT guide
http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/fzr250-cam-chain-tensioner.3336/

 

The cams and caps should be removed when you join the chain. Proper use of the riveting tool is recommended. My photos of the chain press are not how to use it correctly. What you should do is retract the press pin and insert the camchain pin inside. Screw in the threaded section until it sits on the chain plate, properly aligned with the hole. It's important that all the plates line up.

Screw in the press pin and it will insert the chain pin into the plate. Ensure proper alignment of the plates and continue pressing in the pin. Once fully seated, the pin needs to be peened over which a good chain press kit will have the right pits to do. Drive chains have copper ends on the pin that expand and retain the plate, as opposed to using a retention clip.

I have also put a slight chamfer on the new pin to assist with pressing it in, in the past. It is critical that the pin is peened over otherwise a cam chain coming apart is curtains for the valvetrain and top end.

If done right, the link should be as free as all other links in the chain.