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Help FZR250 Transmission bearing and other questions

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by ruckusman, Sep 23, 2019.

  1. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Have you tried pulling the sleeve/spacer off the old wrecked shaft to see if its' splined or just a round bore?
    It may just have some light rust holding it on to the shaft, try putting some trans fluid on the gap between the shaft and the sleeve/spacer, it is the best thing for penetrating rust etc, leave it for a day to soak in then try and separate them.
    Might give you an idea on what it going on with the replacement shaft/sleeve ?
     
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  2. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Another way to get that sleeve off is just grind it down until it is paper thin on one side (above a spline groove) and it will come off or you can split it with a cold chisel. By the look of the ring it will never seal anyway.
     
  3. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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  4. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Both good ideas, the local hardware suggested a press to remove it, I might be wrong, however I can see that damaging the outer race as the SH2 designation means that the inner race has been hardened only

    I am going to remove the engine from the bike and see if the other spaced comes out easily, I have been meaning to do this anyway.

    I did put some Inox MX5 down to see if there was something to be loosened, going to fill the cavity now, let it soak overnight and see if that helps.

    There is some transmission fluid here somewhere - now to find it.

    BTW I am a little hesitant to grind the spacer down just yet, the replacement is $46 and I suspect will be NLA when I pitch the question, the bearing was also listed with a price when I asked, but they came back to me saying it was NLA, so the database isn't up to date it seems
     
  5. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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  6. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    For the ring you can probably get some hardchromed bar, hollow or solid, with the exact OD and just get the ID and length right. It will be 8 million times better than the OEM junk that ends up with a groove worn into it and is way too tight on the shaft anyway.
     
  7. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    I am sure that is a double row angular contact. They just labelled it wrong.
     
  8. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Other pics I've seen of that bearing show it with an inner retainer as the inner race is split, which is in the pic, basically both side of the inner slide in/out for assembly which is why there are so many balls

    This page shows the inner retainer to keep the assembly together

    http://rolling.hu/search/616073+SKF.php
    616073.jpg

    This page has the schematic diagram

    https://www.noc.ua/online-catalog-b...onopen.html?bearing=7743625e7241&title=616073
    616073.png

    I've just tried the other engine, removed the nut and sprocket and the sleeve is just as stuck, though I don't have as much purchase with the engine still in the bike

    ...and I've just remembered that I've got a DC TIG power source, so I'm going to use that to heat the sleeve on the good shaft

    @my67xr - I've checked and the spline is only cut about 5mm deep past the beginning of the sleeve, it's loaded with Inox MX5 overnight, then tomorrow I'll rinse it clean with metho and put some heat into it with the TIG - that way I can keep the heat localised to just the sleeve, then we'll see what comes

    I am surprised that it's likely pressed on given that the bearing has a retaining ring into the engine case, unless there's some grit in there that's well and truly wedged

    I do have one more trick up my sleeve before I relent and get the bearing and sleeve pressed off, assuming that actually works...
     
  9. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Yes, in my image above you can see 3 types. In the 32A, 33A that you see above as the inner ring is compressed radial clearance will reduce just like that of your OEM bearing. But the split version acts like two singles back to back. I do not think the split version is a good idea in your case. As you increase axial pressure on the two distinct inner rings it will reduce radial clearance and bind. Those types of bearings are tightened to limit axial float but should not be heavily loaded. Now I might be totally wrong but this is my understanding. My experience has been with pairs of single row angular contact bearings being shimmed to set the appropriate assembly clearances to suit the bearing arrangement. In older Ducati engines you have to shim everything.
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2019
  10. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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  11. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Hmm, ambiguous - google translate says

    good afternoon, international sale only directly, freight value

    So wondering if that means the freight cost is US$59.99, or total cost including freight - that's a good enough price if it's including the freight, I just wish I was up on my Portuguese to make things easier
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2019
  12. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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  13. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    I've got a spare bottom end that you can have, or just pay postage for. Maybe some salvageable bits. I think the crank is OK, the casing has been repaired so don't know how durable it is.
     
  14. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Thanks, that's much appreciated, I may take you up on that offer - reason being that I'm not sure I trust the longevity of the bearing which is on the replacement transmission shaft - the engine cases are full of varnish from burnt oil, and it seems daft to not replace that bearing because replacements are nigh on impossible to locate.

    The local guys at the hardware reckoned it could be pressed off, but my understanding is that if you press anything off of a shaft using the outer race, then that bearing is done, same for removing wheel bearings using the internal race - once they're out they're toast, don't put them back into service as it's just asking for trouble.

    The one on my 3LN1 shaft has 55K on it, not sure it's got much life left in it either.
     
  15. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Okay, now that I made my Franken Press, time to sort this out. This is an FZR250 gearbox that I found on eBay and assigned to medical experiments.
    First of all the oil seal ring is an interference fit of 0.045mm. Insane!
    FZR250_Countershaft_02%20copy.jpg
    As you can see I did not go for two Vee-blocks, and I am glad I didn't. I had as much pressure as I could put on the press without completely crapping my pants that the ram would blow the top of my skull off, and then nothing happened. So I used a butane torch and maintained full pressure until finally a loud bang and the bloody thing moved.
    Countershaft_01_Small.jpg
    I used a piece of 6mm flat plate between the jack and the shaft. This is how much pressure it was under.
    FZR250_Countershaft_05_Small.jpg
    That is from the cross groove in the jack.
     
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    Last edited: Feb 2, 2020
  16. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    The bearing in question is 22 x 50 x 20.6. It is a single row piece of unobtanium junk.
    I am going to have a couple of double row bearings made. One for this gearbox and one for selling. I will also make new seal rings that can actually fit onto the shaft and hard chrome the seal face.
     
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  17. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Well, there you have your answer, that is conclusively why I could not shift it with small taps of a hammer - clearly I am going to have to grind that oil seal ring down to remove as there's no way that I'm going to put it back on there.

    Is the bearing an interference fit or does it slide back on relatively easily.

    BTW - there are double row bearings available, for memory one goes into a Lada gearbox, BUT I don't know much of Russian quality control - hit and miss is my opinion, but they're capable of magnificent quality like any other nation

    And you've clarified the conflicting bearing inner diameter numbers that I had - it's 22mm, not 20mm as some sites stated - great work thank you
     
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  18. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    You are going to have to be very careful going the grinding route. The bearing is about size for size.
     
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    Last edited: Feb 2, 2020
  19. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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  20. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    I did contact one of those types of companies. Min order was 1000 pieces. Not saying that it can't be found though.
     
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