So I was reassembling the camshafts and one of the locator dowels on the exhaust is missing. I dont remember taking it out or anything so I think a sloppy previous owner didnt bother. So thats a bit of a pain, more time chasing parts. Gunna repaint the frame later this week which should give me lots of things to reinstall
Silly question time, not in one of the retainers? I now when I did the valve shims for the first time I thought I was short at first glance - some stayed in the cylinder head and others came out with the retainers
I am following this thread with great interest. I bought a 1990 FZR250 last year and am now tackling it. I appreciate the details about the carbs. If I may be so bold I have a general question about the clutch. I took it apart today and there is a round spring spacer (clutch boss spring?) Anout half way down the stack of steels and clutch plates with a slightly altered clutch plate to allow it to Nestle inside. I have not seen this in a clutch before...what is the purpose of it? It is not in FZR400 clutch stack from what I can see in parts diagrams. I would be grateful if someone would give me something to ponder rather than Covid here in Peterborough Ontario. Tks. Bill
Hi Bill, Interesting question regarding the clutch stack, the same question has occurred to me when I've replaced the clutch friction plates, but I never sought an answer This is the breakdown of the components http://www.firstclassmotorcycles.com.au/partFinder/fiche/yamaha/1998/fzx25-zeal/clutch I'm wondering if it's there to oscillate the steels and friction discs to encourage them to separate to disengage the clutch. The same friction discs are used in a lot of other bikes http://www.firstclassmotorcycles.com.au/part/yamaha/1311632400#content, which doesn't add a lot to the potential answer
I'm not running the smaller clutch plate and spring in my 1990 3LN3, i replaced the clutch friction plate's with some Kelvar one's off an FZR400, found a set of 8x (2x spare's) on ebay china for $25 inc delivery I haven't noticed any ill effect's not running the spring
Tks for the list of other bikes that use the same plates. Much less expensive some of those for some reason Bill That is good to hear...the spring is a little out of shape so I may just dispense with it as well. Thanks. Bill
Just a guess from looking at the diagram, but could the spring be to separate the plates when the clutch is pulled in? Just adds some force pulling the plates apart rather than relying on them slipping as soon as theres no pressure. Maybe just one of those overengineerd things that wasn't necessary
Hi guys just reading this and have a quick question - my clutch has started slipping and I've looked into replacing it. I've had a quote back for: Fibres 6 pack NZ$81.60 Steels 5 pack NZ$50.00 What would I need to replace? Do I need both fibres and steels and another guy mentioned springs. Any help will be great thanks!
Measure the steels, they don't wear nearly as quickly as the friction plates Springs, if they are past their wear limit - pretty sure we have actual numbers for all of those measurements in the resources section
Got a new dowel, turns out they are very common across Yamaha's so that's handy. Just want to confirm the cam bolts torque. Based on the manual it looks like its 1.0kg/m but since its in Japanese I wanted to make sure.
FZX250 Zeal torque specs are here also https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/yamaha-fzx250-zeal-tightening-torque.127/
So predictably something has gone wrong while doing the valve clearances. Got the cams in, timing is correct. I turn the motor over by hand, chain tensioner clicks a few times like usual, and about 70 degrees from cylinder 1 TDC, it stops. Engine doesn't turn past this point, feels like it's hitting something if that makes sense. Like something has actually stopped it from turning, not like somethings got tight and squeezed until it wont turn. I'm certain the timing is right, i checked it a bunch of times and all the valves line up with the pistons positions. I'm definitely not going to try and make it to turn so i put maybe 15nm turning force on the flywheel. Any ideas from the FZR gods? I can send some pictures if needed
FWIW (for what it's worth) ICYMI (in case you missed it) - there's the three timing marks - the two holes which line up with the top edge of the cylinder head and the third hole at the top which indicates this way up