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Help FZR250 - coolant leak in hardline behind block/head

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by skylinerd1, May 4, 2019.

  1. skylinerd1

    skylinerd1 Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Have a coolant leak in the hardline that wraps around the back of the engine where the carbs are.

    Pisses out good when you give it a rev.

    Is it just an oring in there? Nothing special?

    Just picked up this machine and going over it. Im also not entire sure how much noise from the head at idle is normal on these I know they make a bit of noise but not sure how much. Almost like a chain dragging noise and ticks at slow idle when reved up sounds normal and healthy.
    I might have to look into the idle speed.



    IMG_20190504_160821[1].jpg
     
  2. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    :welcome:

    Water pipe will just be o-rings... have a look at the parts diagrams on a site like megazip.

    A few things I can tell you from your video, based my on FZR ownership in the past

    First is that the bike sounds healthy for the most part

    Two is that it needs a cam chain

    Three is don't worry about the growl/rumble, it's from the clutch bushing/bearing... if it really bugs you, pull the basket and replace the bearing
     
  3. skylinerd1

    skylinerd1 Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Cheers man I'll hook into it tomorrow.

    So the chain is just a bit stretched or something you reckon? So thats just a case of de pinning the current one and pulling it around until the new one is on there and repin it. The previous owner seemed to think it might need lash adjustment or something but it doesnt sound terrible to me.

    Is there a section in the manual for checking the chain on the engine or it has to come off to be measured?
     
  4. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Yes, the chains stretch and this causes your valve timing to go wonky.

    Basically you measure the chain across 20 pins from one camshaft sprocket to another and compare against the specification and the service limit.

    The innermost 4 cam bolts hold a metal plate with a plastic guide for the chain. Remove this and measure, also check the chain for slack at a few points in rotation.

    Replacing the chain involes removing the camshafts, breaking the chain, joining it to the new chain, feeding the old out and the new in, then joining the new chain, and finally riveting the pin.

    You will need a good quality chain breaking and riveting kit.

    The job can be done with the tank, airbox, carbs and radiator removed.

    It would be a good idea to check the valve clearances while you're in there and change the shims if required. Generally the clearances go tighter with age and KM's
     
  5. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Big Cheese Contributing Member

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  6. skylinerd1

    skylinerd1 Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Ok been over this thing and just ridden it downt he block. Jeez few things to replace alright.

    Done the orings in the two coolant tubes but now I need the onesn marked 16 in the drawing above and also might aswell do 8 to. Is that bearing in the water pump also replaceable and just a generic bearing or do I have to go oem for it? Or do you have to buy the complete pump?

    One of the exup cables is snapped so I need a pair of exup cables aswell. It has no power when I just drove it down the driveway and back I think this is likely more of a carb issue I doubt the exup valve makes that much difference?

    So for now:
    8,16 and the bearing for waterpump in the drawing above wheres best to buy?
    Exup cables where best to buy?

    Thanks
     
  7. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    EXUP repair kit: https://www.venhill.co.uk/u01-11-100.html

    The EXUP not working makes a huge difference, especially if it is stuck open, you will lose all your torque below 10,000rpm (where it opens fully when working correctly).

    However the FZR250's do suffer from carb issues... primarily, the emulsion tubes and tapered needles wear out due to a poor retaining mechanism for the needle. This was fixed on the 3LN6/7 and FZX250 Zeal.

    Parts diagrams, pick your year/model: https://www.megazip.net/search?q=3ln

    Water pump I would leave alone unless its leaking... and if so, buy the whole assembly and let a mechanic do it... my one attempt at replacing the seal, shaft and bearing ended in failure
     
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  8. skylinerd1

    skylinerd1 Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Are the oem exup cables discontinued? The link with all the parts seems to suggest they might of stopped selling them or is it just that seller?

    The black outer on my cable is torn up and its snapped the end clean off the black bit as well as the cable so I wouldnt think those custom cable replacements will work for me. I need the complete cables with the black outer which it slides in.
     
  9. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    It looks like the OEM cables are discontinued. You can try searching for 2nd hand cables with the part numbers
     
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  10. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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  11. skylinerd1

    skylinerd1 Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Oh ok yeah I might just buy the full Litetek kit then. I would like to give it another try but thinking now I should just pull the whole thing down and check the chain and that anyway. It did make a tick noise when I was just off idle coming up my driveway on it. I need to check the chain and the valve clearances.

    The carb airbox wasnt sealing properly due to the boots shrinking which is likely whats caused the carbs to go out of tune with the dirt getting in there I would think. My fix for that was putting stainless steel tube in there to hold them out. Of course it makes it a big of a wrangle to get the airbox and that on but its doable:

    IMG_20190503_210048[1].jpg
     
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  12. skylinerd1

    skylinerd1 Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Wheres the cheapest you guys have found for the carb metal bits emulsion tubes, diaphragm I suppose you have to buy it all including the rubbers? Or should I just pull the carbs down and inspect and only order what I need?
     
  13. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    You only need to replace needles, emulsion tubes and diaphragms if they are worn and diaphragms if they have holes in them.
     
  14. skylinerd1

    skylinerd1 Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    OK I ordered your Litetek seal kit already. Im finding all the rubber on this engine is well past its use by date so im taking the approach to replace all that I can while its apart.

    So for the needles emulsion tubes etc do you guys just get the part numbers out of the following link and order them? https://www.megazip.net/search?q=3ln

    Holy fook!! are the diaphrams really 250usd each??? Ok then they'll probably be staying put....
     
  15. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Thanks for the order. It will go out tomorrow. There are aftermarket parts available and some links in the forum.
    You ordered for a 3LN1 are you sure that this is your model?
     
  16. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Big Cheese Contributing Member

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    https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?...agm-replacement-fzr-3ln-bdst-carburetor.8851/

    Currently the only way to get new tubes is via a Keyster kit .... listed here

    https://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au/search?page=2&q=fzr250

    Float needles

    https://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au/products/kvn-16qs2

    Some things appear on Aliexpress occasionally

    https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20190505155936&SearchText=fzr250

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Carbure...586-00-FZR250R-FZR250-1989-1994-/233049465265

    Make sure u have the right parts as the 3LNs changed thru the models ... not forgetting the carbs or even the motor could have been changed/replaced by previous owners

    https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?...0-3ln-bodywork-frame-engine-carburetors.3469/
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2019
  17. skylinerd1

    skylinerd1 Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    It has the oil filter under the engine so its not been replaced with a late model one (well atleast the crankcase I guess). Its registered as an 89 FZR250R. A vincheck tells me the engine number starts as a 1HX. Where is the engine number on these?

    When iv been pulling stuff off this bike certain things around the engine to me look like they've never been touched which seems amazing at 73000kms... I think this might be the original engine. Prior to the previous owner who let it get into a state of disrepair due to no money this bike was VERY well cared for.
     
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  18. skylinerd1

    skylinerd1 Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Heres s pic of the bottoms of the carbs.

    IMG_20190506_135219[1].jpg IMG_20190506_135410[1].jpg IMG_20190506_135148[1].jpg
     
  19. skylinerd1

    skylinerd1 Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Do you guys think those carbs are original 3LN1? The pinned post on identifying carbs/bikes seems to suggest a blank carb without the two nubs cast into the base of the carb is a 3ln1 but the other three have nubs but they are different again to the pics in the pinned thread?

    Am I missing something here?
     
  20. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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