Today in preparation for changing out the fuel filter and testing the fuel pump on my FZR250 I removed the false tank. What I am not clear about is whether I need to remove both the airbox and fuel tank to access these items. I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has done this before and doesn't mind helping out a painfully inadequate newbee. Cheers, Dan
Airbox possibly no, fuel tank yes. Items 35 & 17 below. The fuel pump will likely be bolted in a bracket held to the underside of the tank. You'll have to disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor and also the fuel pump power supply cable. It's the same setup as my 400 and I think it's just easier to get to things if I pull the airbox off... not a huge additional job.
Thanks For the great details Joker. Will tackle the job in the next short while and post my findings.
I removed the fuel tank yesterday and was able to test the fuel pump. It was pumping a reasonable amount of fuel so not likely the cause of the no-start problem I am having. Have ordered a new pump and filter and will likely change these out anyway. It wasn't possible to remove the fuel line from the carb so just removed it from the pump. As noted the pump and filter are mounted to the bottom backside of the tank: My bike sat for a couple of years and likely the carbs have been screwed up by the crappy 10% ethanol fuel we are blessed with so my next step will be to pull the carbs and give them a good cleaning. I have read several threads about the dreaded airbox boots so I am preparing myself for the likelihood that this won't be a one day job. Access to the clamps holding the boots to the carbs is really crappy. I am wondering if it is possible to pull the boots off the airbox from the inside instead?
The boots have usually shrunk enough over the last 25+ years to fall through the bottom of the air box. Give it a good pull and will come off.
http://www.litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Yamaha_FZR250_2KR.html http://www.litetek.co/Guide_MikuniBDST_Rebuild.html
A picture of my bike follows. It was imported from Japan into Canada new and is likely one of very few 1986 models in this country. It has the EXUP system and is currently at 18,300 kms (10,980 miles). I am the third owner.
Yes very nice! Didn't think the Exup valve was used untill 1988 though ? Maybe someone has swapped in a later 2KR/3HX loom and all the extra bit's? https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/fzr250-model-descriptions-and-identification.6668/
if exup is a mid 1988. non exup 2kr,s had a black muffler that was all in one with the headers. the exup smoothed the mid range.
Grey beat me to it, but EXUP stands for EXhaust Ultimate Power. The Japanese marketing guys were working hard that day. Essentially, it is a butterfly valve in the exhaust pipe, after the four pipes join into one and before the muffler. It is controlled by two bowden cables connected to a servo motor. The valve is nearly fully closed at idle and transitions to fully open at about 10,000 rpm. What it achieves is a boost in low and mid range torque, it eliminates the flat spot before the aggressive profile of the camshafts 'kicks in' and does nothing to hamper top end power. Many modern bikes use the same concept. For not a lot of extra weight, equipment and cost, it provides a good increase in usable torque.
The Litetek kit arrived and today I pulled the carbs and I'm about 1/2 way done installing the new seals and o-rings. I noticed that the choke mechanism seems to be seized up and doesn't move when putting a fair amount of pressure on the linkage. Any thoughts on what could be causing that and what the remedy may entail? Cheers, Dan
Remove the arm and then you can find which of them is seized, but best to pull them all out and clean them anyway. Carbs will be a bit different but a useful guide http://litetek.co/Guide_MikuniBDST_Rebuild.html
Thanks for the suggestion. Was able to free the mechanism up. On this model of carb there is a long rod that goes the length of the carb assembly to which 4 plungers are attached. These plungers go into each carb body and work the internal choke. On my carbs some judicious application of WD40 in the bosses holding the long rod was enough to free everything up. The long rod can be seen in the following picture:
Had a good day! I reinstalled the rebuilt carbs and after a dumb move was fixed (didn't plug in the fuel pump) the bike is running great. One thing that is driving me nuts is installing the front left lower fairing - it has an opening at the rear bottom that presumably the kick stand fits through somehow. I guess I am not holding my tongue right as I have given up for the night after several failed attempts. Any hints for me? Cheers, Dan