That R6 shock looks to be a lot shorter than the FZR item. When I had one that was going to be used on the SRX way back when I think they were a lot closer in overall length between the mounting eyes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Yeah the R6 shock is about 10mm shorter. I went through the conversion thread that's pinned somewhere. And people seemed to do it with no problem. regardless if its shorter if I hit big bump and the shock bottoms I don't want it to hit the chain.
Theres some discussion on fuel lines here https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/fuel-hose.9723/ I have Tygon lines on mine now but I think I had ¼ inch basic black fuel hose before , which is just over 6mm Ill see if I can find some old hose in my parts department Definately use decent clamps ..... not these types as the "cutouts" dig into the rubber over time
That broken fairing is heartbreaking - I'd be sobbing! Check the thread I created - NOTE - there are differences in the stock dogbone length between 3LN1 <-> 3LN3, so my measurements for the shorter dog bones for a 3LN1, will be appropriate or close I'd say you definitely need to shorten them to raise the read ride height - then see if you can set the static sag with you on the bike - from memory ~35mm is about appropriate There's Dave Moss videos out there - really good ones
Yeah I didn't work on the bike for a few weeks after that. Thoughts of setting the thing on fire have crossed my mine several times during this build. Being able to take it for a couple of rides is definitely motivating though. I think with just a bit more work and some fine tuning it will be a really nice fun little bike.
I also put new chain and sprockets on the bike. The old sprockets looks to be almost new but the chain had seen better days. the old rear sprocket was 51 tooth and i believe the new one is 57 which I was told was factory. Will 5 teeth on the rear make much of a difference? Also does anyone know where to find a thread on setting chain slack and what the specs are?
56T rear is stock but they dont exist 6T is a huge difference ..... it should ride like a new bike .... it should have tons more zip and acceleration .... think of stunt bikes that have big rear sprockets Also make sure the gear linkage is positioned correctly https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/fzr250-trouble-selecting-neutral.11345/#post-140045
Oh hay thanks for the heads up on the shifter position. Do I just check the slack with the bike on the side stand? I've heard I should be on the bike but its bike specific. Also any tricks for getting the clip on the master link?
On the sprocket cover? No, most modern bikes don't have them, being that the covers are plastic. These older bikes are a little overbuilt like that.
Hi guys. Trying to get a brake declaration done so I can finally put this thing on the road. I can't seem to find the factory specs any where. anyone have any ideas?
As a matter of fact I just pulled that breather hose out to remove the sprocket cover - it gets jammed down through in fromt of the sprocket cover behind the back and outside edge of the water pump housing - it's a tough, tight fit, but it will make it
ERM, never heard of it - there's translated factory specs, check the resources section, not much in there about brakes except the disc sizes, although it may have minimum thicknesses on the discs printed in there also, if that's of any assistance
Sounds like your transport dept is being silly. Not sure about NZ, but motorcycles don't get brake tests for registration here in Oz.
I think mine are OEM, and I have two sets of wheels with identical discs and there is no minimum thickness stamped onto them - I'm fairly certain all the other FZR owners with OEM discs will say the same