Oh I'm not sure about that Mr Grey. Sometimes I get my ambitions and capabilities mixed up I used to weld aluminium boats (100ft jobbies) and do quite a bit of fabrication, so the welding I have covered. About the time the aluminium spar frames became popular the fashion was for seats that looked like a shoe box. Even though the rest of the bodywork had lots of style. Then we had a few beautiful machines like the R7 and the 916 Ducati amongst others. Then it all fell off a cliff as we spiralled into the modern, "hey look my seat has an erection", things. I think it would be nice to transform all those 90's models with a few choice parts (that's the dream). I want to put the radiators under the seat (hence the versatile sub-frame idea) and make half fairings to show off those great engines. What is the point in having a slant four, or V4 if you never get to see it? I have loads of ideas, but meagre amounts of capital, so it is all baby steps. I think this forum has a lot of knowledgeable posters on it by the way. Which is sort of odd, considering it is supposed to be just for 250cc bikes. Also a lot of forums, not just the bike ones, seem to get taken over by nazi types, but this one has . . . what would you call it? . . a generous spirit . . . something like that. cheers Blair
You can't be that bad with composites to have made that tail section. You could try using thin ~3mm high density foam and a heat gun to form it to generate your sections, fill the gaps and do a laminate layer over the top and you've got your plug to make the mould. peace out
The radiator under the seat is a brilliant idea, one that the tularis used - trying to find the link with the detailed specs for the tularis but coming up empty ATM
Stinky composite stuff aaargh!! Yes, I've read a bit about the Tularis. The builder is a genuine rocket scientist. Britten did it too and his radiator was quite small, although it would have a lot of airflow given his bodywork was designed for it. The Honda VTR1000 uses two quite small side radiators. I like the idea of mounting them vertically just a bit limited by space.
Fitting an electric water pump like this one http://www.bdkraceeng.co.uk/Electric Water Pump 1.html is part of the plan. Having the flow rate determined by engine speed is a dodgy compromise given that there is no air flow when the bike is stopped and the engine driven pump is circulating at the slowest rate. Just what I think. I haven't tested that hypothesis just yet.
Well I had a VF750 that would always switch on the cooling fan if it was left sitting idling - same for most cars, so I think your hypothesis is pretty much correct. The upper and lower limits look good as there is an optimum combustion chamber temperature. I remember years ago when Kevin Schwantz was on the Suzuki and down on power keeping him from the podium that he mentioned that the water temperature was 85 degrees, which was obviously too high and the bike was suffering power fade during the races. Obviously that's more crucial to a 500cc two stroke GP bike as they apparently lose power during the race because of rings softening, which is exacerbated by higher than normal temps. But the same principles apply to road going machines, everything has it's optimum conditions in engineering terms. peace out
BTW I always use a full gas respirator and gloves when using epoxy - sensitisation is something I've read about and never want to experience first hand
if you can get the seat to me i can organise a mould to be made. need to do in sections that bolt together.lots of carnauba wax and elbow grease. then tooling gelcoat, then satin cloth. then glass.as it cannot be removed in one piece due to shape needs bandsawing, edges moulded on an bolted together. lots of wax as release agent then gelcoat and glass.easier to make a mould and have plastic part made.probably cheaper.
Thanks Risky, but I will leave the fiberglass option as the last resort. The shipping costs would also be horrible to get it back from Aus.
Yes carbs are apart. I bought the bike during the week, basket case. But it seems to be mostly all there. I looked in the carby box & the diaphrams are shot, no holes but poor condition, squashed up & all out of shape. I will start the rebuild next week. I've been busy today on the FZR, the fairings turned up $435 delivered & pretty good, they fitted pretty well except for 2 minor pieces which can be sorted. See the pics.
Love the tail piece ..... YAMAHAHA Looks great though With those carbs , measure the diameter of the rim where the diaphragms sit and we shall see if those Suzuki ones fit. I have a manual for the XS1100 if u need it.
I am after a workshop manual if thats what youve got. I have a photocopier if you don't want to sell it. There's a 'Clymer' manual on watch on ebay but it ends up $67 delivered ! The diameter of the carb for thye diaphrams are The overall diameter is 73mm & 68mm inside dia Thanks for the help
Sadly your carbs are larger ... understandable on an engine 4x the size Heres some info on the diaphragms ...I didnt read every word but looks promising http://jbmindustries.com/Yamaha650.html http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?p=332171 Heres the manuals I have..... just click the link to access my google drive ..... hopefully they will be useful , beats paying big bucks anyway. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0ByHbiu0yM2SGN1hYSUdFUlZ6c2c&usp=sharing
Thanks for the manuals, much appreciated. The diaphragms page looks good, I'll get into it this week when I get time. Back to the painting, doing the FZR tank white at 2pm, fingers crossed, got some bloody solvent fizz in the clear job this morning
solvent fizz from humidity ,try running the air hose in a bucket of water to condense the humidity in the air and drain the compressor tank.
Ok, wondered if it was humidity. I always drain the trap & also let the tank hiss from the drain valve while in use to keep as much out of the tank as possible. So do I have to run a longer hose through the bucket between the compressor & the trap? at the moment its just a normal setup on the compressor, sounds like a still setup? There is an Aussie filter on ebay that takes a toilet roll to soak up moisture about $100 I think. I've had this issue before & it was much worse, last summer & probably high humidity if I remember, the base coats are un affected only the clear & solids to a lesser extent. Thanks for the tip
ok, helps to use heat lamps in closed shed to raise temp and have metal hot,use extra length of hose coiled in bucket of water to condense water from compressor to filter,[does not always work] ,pay a painter with heated booth, OR wait for dryer weather. humidity is a mongrel.give me a conversation with your phone number as if you are close can lend you a double length hose for a few days.
I've got plenty of hose thanks anyway. I'll set up the compressor better & buy a better filter. At the moment I'm just doing it in the garage, pretty rough I know but I make do. What if I ran the compressor in an air-conditioned room ? Thanks for the help, I've asked around but never got a straight answer, it's like witchcraft & no one will tell you the secret spells.