This short section is designed to give you an idea regarding what you could do with your bike on a regular basis to keep it in as good condition as possible. It is important to note that while following these will be beneficial for your bike, a full proper tuning by a experienced (and reliable) mechanic is something that should be done every once and a while too! Some of the items (e.g. oil filter change) are covered in other threads in this section. This is just a summary. Every time you get on the bike (or almost) - check brake and indicator lights (remember you have 2 brakes. Some people have found that at times only one will activate the brake light - this should be fixed) - check tires for general wear (watch out for strange patterns forming) - oil level (do this 1 every 3-4 times you get on - depending on distances you travel etc.) Every 500 k's - Re oil / grease your chain - Check chain tension and sprocket wear Every 1000 k's - Fluid level check and top-up as necessary (brakes, oil, and coolant) 5 000 km - Check around the bike to ensure all is ok (should do this all the time, but this is a more concentrated effort) - you will likely need a good torch. Things to check are: brake pads, tire wear (also check to ensure that tires are wearing evenly - could be a sign of other problems if not), fork seals, general leaks etc., sprockets, etc. - Replace oil (if you are using non-synthetic oil you should probably replace the filter here too) - Complete clean and grease the chain - Tighten chain as necessary - If the battery is unsealed check fluid levels. - Clean air filter (if reusable) 10 000 km: - Replace all fluids - oil, coolant, brake fluids (bleed and replace) - Replace oil filter (do this while oil is drained you replace oil obviously) - Replace air filter (if not reusable) - Check spark plugs (cleanliness and gaps) (replace these if you think necessary - set of 4 will cost about $20, if you go iridium plugs (which will never need replacing again) the cost is about $80 for 4). I use a standard wire brush to clean these. - Clean fuel filter (again I have re-usable ones) I am sure there are some other minor things... but can't think of them off the top of my head. I would also recommend that if you are going to do these things yourself to keep a log book - identify the date(s) that you did various service items. Good practice just so you can keep tabs on what you have done (perhaps not worry about entering all the routine service items, just the 5000 and 10 000 k services)
Your chances on finding one new is zero, zilch, none What condition is your old one? If its still in 1 piece , wash it in hot soapy water and dry it in the sun Or you can cut out the filter part and replace with new filter foam into the plastic frame
As I recall, they are the same as used on my FZR400 3TJ and you can buy 1WG filters but the problem is they are about 8 to 10mm too long. I was planning to make a spacer to solve that issue. I think I even have a new Hi-Flo filter that I bought with that in mind. Not needed now coz I have FCR's I haven't thought about this for a long time but now that I have a 3D printer I could make a spacer from nylon.
Oops, I think it is the Zeal that has the one I am thinking of. How about go here https://www.knfilters.com/search/universal/panel-air-filter put dimensions in and find the closest one. Cut OEM one out and glue in new one.
Thanx y'all. Also wondering if there's benefit in opening up air into the box - I guess the U 'snorkel' keeps water out and noise down tho'?
An airbox is all about airflow ..... and the little Japanese men in the white coats back in the day knew alot more than anyone on this forum will ever know about how they are designed Theres many a post about using things like pods on these carbs .... well ,why not to use them , more correctly . As you might have noticed already , the hardest thing to get right on an FZR250 is the carbs .... straying from a stock setup is not a good move .... thats my thoughts anyway https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/in-search-of-the-free-lunch.9/
So I did the basic unscrew of the snorkel. Yes, there's now an unpleasant induction noise. So cut into leading edge of lower half of airbox, yup still OK re perf. Why'd I fix something that aint broke? So I've gone for headers, an EXUPectomy, and want air. It's a rescue 3LN3, and I didn't like the pull compared with my 3LN6, so just want max - Oh my, it's like being booted in the bum. This is changing my ride, rather than backing off into a corner I'm grabbing a low gear to blast through it once I've sussed the line. Just had to refit EXUP to fix some mixture issues discolouring my pipes unequally, and man, I'm going thru withdrawals.