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Help 250cc Intruder interchangable parts

Discussion in 'Suzuki 250cc Twins' started by Federal Agent at Large, May 9, 2018.

  1. Federal Agent at Large

    Federal Agent at Large Active Member

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    Hi,
    Recent ride didnt go as plan. Bike broke down with a brand new battery totally drained
    Towed it to a local shop and they have come back pointing to a failed Regulator and a Alternator.
    The $ they want for these parts turned out obscene
    $760 for the alternator and $350 for the regulator + labor cost
    So this repair sits close to $1,250 (something I simply cant afford at the moment)

    So thinking of bringing the bike home and do the work myself.

    As part of sourcing a replacement regulator and alternator I noticed dramatic price differences between various vlc models (where the 250cc seem to be the most expensive)
    So now wonder if anyone cold tell me why I need a regulator for specifically the vlc 250cc (and not being able to use one for other vlc models (such as VL1500 or DR650 etc) ?
    Similar question when it comes to the Alternator/Magneto

    Anyone know if/what parts that is interchangable in this space?

    cheers
     
  2. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Have you ever measured the stator ohm's ?
    It may just have a dodgy or corroded connection somewhere.

    You can probably use a reg/rect off another bike.
    Can you post a pic of your's, including the terminal's and the part number printed on it.
     
  3. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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  4. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    You will most likely find that it is the Reg/Rec that is the issue.. and the reason stuff is expensive is that they are not that common... so there isnt a ready supply of second hand items or much aftermarket either...
    Did you get a Service manual for it... there will be a series of tests in there to determine what is wrong.... good luck with it.
     
  5. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    If it's like this then it will be easy and cheap to find another
    They are also used on Suzuki DRZ400'S 2000-2007,

    Honda VF700C VF700 VF 700 V SHADOW 1986 1987
    Honda VT800C VT800 VT 800 C SHADOW 1988
    Honda VF1000F VF1000R INTERCEPTOR 1984-1986
    Honda GL500 GL650 SILVERWING INTERSTATE 1981-1983
    Honda GL500 GL650 SILVER WING INTERSTATE 1981 1982 1983
    Honda VT500C SHADOW VT500FT ASCOT MOTORCYCLE 1983-1986
    Honda VF700C MAGNA VF700F INTERCEPTOR VF700S SABRE 1984-1988
    Honda VT700C SHADOW 1984-1987
    Honda VT1100C SHADOW 1985-1986
    Honda VF1100S V65 SABRE VF1100C V65 MAGNA 1984-1986
    Honda VF1100 V65 SABRE 1984-1985
    Honda VT700C VT1100C SHADOW MOTORCYCLE 1984-1986
    Honda CX500TC CX650C CX650T TURBO 1982 1983
    Honda VF750C MAGNA VF750S SABRE V45 1982 1983
    Honda VF500F F2 VF500C V30 MAGNA 1984 1985 1986
    Aprilia Classic 125 1995-99
    Aprilia Leonardo 125 1996-04
    Aprilia Leonardo 150 1996-04
    Aprilia MX 125 2004-06
    Aprilia Pegaso 600 1990-91
    Aprilia Pegaso 650 1992-95
    Aprilia RS 125 1995-09
    Aprilia RS 250 1998-01
    Aprilia RX 125 1994-08
    Aprilia Scarabeo 125 1999-03
    Aprilia Scarabeo 150 1999-03
    Aprilia Scarabeo 200 1999-03
    Aprilia SX 125 2008

    s-l1600.jpg
     
  6. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    I agree that its more than likely the RR .... bike shop is talking crap

    Simple , easiest, and cheapest things first

    Either test or just replace the RR , charge up the battery then go from there
     
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  7. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    Charge up the battery and get a multimeter , should be easy to diagnose where the fault lies
     
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  8. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Checking the stator with a meter is dead simple.

    Check resistance between each wire - they should all read the same. If any are no resistance or high resistance, that's a failure.
    Check resistance to earth from each wire - infinite resistance on all, anything less is shorted out stator.
    Check the AC output across all 3 wires at the RPM specified in the service manual (with a fully charged battery)

    $760 for a stator is taking the piss...
     
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  9. Federal Agent at Large

    Federal Agent at Large Active Member

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    Thanks all for the input - Agree with the shop overcharging on the item (both items really ;) )
    I will pick up the bike from the shop and do some tests as per suggestion - just need to source a trailer or something now :(
     
  10. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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  11. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    That looks like the rectifier I took from the GN250 that I wrecked.
     
  12. Federal Agent at Large

    Federal Agent at Large Active Member

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    Here'e another weird thing that happened as part of my break down.
    Initially it simply didnt turn over when trying to start it (like the battery was drained to the point of not being able to crank the engine)
    Bike was easy to jump start though, so trip continued.
    Then it was noticed that break light and indicators didnt work anymore - Front light worked all the time though, and a mate told me that it appeared that the tail light was going on/off randomly (but we wasnt 100% sure (could have been the sun tricking the eye).
    The trip meter also behaved strange, flicking rapidly at first then going blank.
    The hand and foot break started to act like a kill switch at low speed coming to red light etc, resulting in that the bike had to be jump started at every red light/intersection when coming to a stand still.

    It was decided to take it out on a stretch with no stops along to way to allow the battery to charge up - fine for a little while, until it started to backfire badly and finally die.
    From there it was not possible to jump start it anymore - just dead.

    Is it possible that a bad stator and/or rectifier/regulator could cause all of these strange behaviors?
     
  13. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Yes - as everything you have mention as causing it to stall uses electrical power - lights - therefore that electrical power, whatever was remaining in the battery at the time was no longer available to run the ignition system.
    Being able to switch off a headlight would have given you more distance from the charge in the battery as it's a reasonable drain, but it wouldn't have prevented the bike from dying eventually

    Race bikes for example run total loss ignition systems - no charging and no lights, some small power usage in the dash, but once the battery goes flat, the ignition fails
     
  14. Federal Agent at Large

    Federal Agent at Large Active Member

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    Brilliant - thanks for the heads up - Have scratched my head on this thinking it was more to it than just the reg/rec and/or alternator.
    And, yes = its a bummer how they hooked up the ignition to the head light with no option to turn it off - will start to look into changing this - but guess it could turn out messy due to all Suzuki proprietary stuff :(

    btw. The fault analysis my64xr posted earlier is brilliant - Thanks!!!

    With no service manual (searched for it a long time to no avail) any little help goes a long way for me with this little scooter.

    cheers
     
  15. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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  16. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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  17. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Service manual has now been uploaded to the Resource's area here
     
  18. Federal Agent at Large

    Federal Agent at Large Active Member

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  19. Federal Agent at Large

    Federal Agent at Large Active Member

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    Do you have this is pdf format you could pass on?
     
  20. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    The manual is in the resources section of the website and it is in pdf.
    All you need to do is pay a small fee to become a Premium member and you then have access to it.
    This helps keep the forum running and is well worth it
     

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