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Project ‘97 Suzuki Across Project

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by SukiMan, Jan 20, 2018.

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  1. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    It’s all a big learning curve. Just be patient and it will come off.
    It may not be quite as easy as the one in the video though


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    Andych, Jan 30, 2018
    #61
  2. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Nobody thinks your stupid. We are all trying to help but without seeing the bits we can only make suggestions for things for you to try. It's all learning.
     
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    Murdo, Jan 31, 2018
    #62
  3. SukiMan

    SukiMan Member

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    About an hour my mate will be here and we’ll be taking it off, or at least attempting to lol. Fingers crossed it’s not too hard


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    SukiMan, Jan 31, 2018
    #63
  4. SukiMan

    SukiMan Member

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    Has anyone actually taken off a flywheel on the Across with one of these pullers? The generic one I’ve already got says it’s a 1mm thread and the one that says it’s the official puller also has a 1mm thread but the puller isn’t completely screwing onto the flywheel and that’s causing our issue. It just pops off the flywheel the more we tighten it. And the whole engine turns when moving the flywheel even though the bike is in gear, my mate said he wasn’t sure why it was doing that but it’s not supposed to is it?


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    SukiMan, Jan 31, 2018
    #64
  5. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Put up a picture of the thread's on the flywheel
    You do have the centre bolt out of the puller when you are trying to do up the outer part?
     
    my67xr, Jan 31, 2018
    #65
  6. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Turning the flywheel with the bike in gear will cause the engine to turn over and also make the bike move forward.
    Any picture's yet ?
    Post up a picture of the inside thread's on the flywheel puller that slip's too
     
    my67xr, Jan 31, 2018
    #66
  7. ShaneP

    ShaneP Well-Known Member

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    Did you check for damage to the flywheel thread? If you put enough torque on the flywheel, it will turn the motor - put it in a tall gear and use the brake if necessary.
    The 30x1.0 means a 30mm diameter of the bolt with 1mm pitch. So if you have a ruler measure the gap of 4-5 threads to work out the pitch, 1 is too small to tell if it is 1.0 or 1.25. If that makes sense?
     
    ShaneP, Jan 31, 2018
    #67
  8. SukiMan

    SukiMan Member

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    Right will post pics in a moment but you all seem a bit insatiable ;) haha.
    We almost ****** the thread on the flywheel trying to get the puller on. You can tell by looking at at the threads that they are different sizes. I used a measuring tape, the puller is 1mm thread like advertised but the flywheel thread is just over 1mm so maybe 1.25mm or 1.5mm. The puller just isn’t biting onto the thread no matter how hard we tried. So I’m going to wait for that other puller that’s being delivered and if that doesn’t work glen (the guy who’s been helping me), is a boilermaker by trade and he will weld the puller onto the flywheel so we can take it off. I’m not spending anymore money on flywheel pullers, this issue is way harder than it should be


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    SukiMan, Jan 31, 2018
    #68
  9. ShaneP

    ShaneP Well-Known Member

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    Hmm, maybe save some time and go straight to welding. Don't weld the pulley remover on, because you'll have to cut it off to get the bolt out, but it is a taper holding it tight, so the heat from welding the flywheel in a couple of spots may loosen it. It will tighten when it cools, so have a couple of levels pushing the flywheel off while your mate welds a few spots. Or if he has an oxy then just heat it up.
     
    ShaneP, Jan 31, 2018
    #69
  10. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    If you can see the thread's are a different pitch you shouldn't have used that puller?

    Maybe someone has switched that flywheel for one off another model bike and it has a different pitch thread ?

    Did the puller screw onto your other flywheel ?
     
    my67xr, Jan 31, 2018
    #70
  11. SukiMan

    SukiMan Member

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    We thought it might still be able to work if we forced it on a bit but every time we tried to tighten it, it just fell off.
    And no, I have 2 Suzuki Across’s here, both have the exact same flywheel, same thread everything we tried the puller on both bikes and I find it very unlikely, almost impossible, that a flywheel change has occurred on 2 different bikes haha



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    SukiMan, Jan 31, 2018
    #71
  12. SukiMan

    SukiMan Member

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    That’s what I’m thinking. Glen said he’ll well the puller on, but because I have that second Across as well, I also have another retaining bolt anyway so it wouldn’t really matter but he’ll be bringing his grinder as well. He also did say the heat will help loosen it as well. The hard part is getting it off, everything after that will be easy as pie


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    SukiMan, Jan 31, 2018
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  13. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Ok then you can send the one that's in transit back to Jono794 then
     
    my67xr, Jan 31, 2018
    #73
  14. SukiMan

    SukiMan Member

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    How’s this for brake “pads” lol.
    This is the one from the new bike that I just pulled off
    16e0f975232f5280d9f207ac9e32f29c.jpg aka: non existent lol.
    And I just put the pads from my accident bike on it and they look like this
    05dfc76e857fd32af709ae516204b45d.jpg
    So a lot better but still not great. I’ll be buying new ones when I have the funds. Right now my newest problem is bleeding the rear brakes. No fluid is coming out at all, so I’m letting brake fluid sit in the reservoir for a while now to let gravity do it’s thing but if it doesn’t flow out, I’ll have to take the tube off the reservoir and blow into the system to see if there’s a blockage. If that still doesn’t work, I’m going to be very very unhappy lol.


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    SukiMan, Jan 31, 2018
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  15. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Use a large syringe with some hose and suck it out the bleeder valve
     
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    my67xr, Jan 31, 2018
    #75
  16. SukiMan

    SukiMan Member

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    I just pulled all the brake lines apart, blew through them and there’s no blockage. I did the bolt old the outside of the caliper that the fluid runs into where the pads are and the fluid comes out of there when I press the brake so there’s 100% no blockage. The fluid seems to get to the caliper but then it doesn’t come out of the nipple. Did I put the pads in wrong or something or??? 00b01855921cab48d43d928d70a364ed.jpg


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    SukiMan, Jan 31, 2018
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  17. SukiMan

    SukiMan Member

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    This is what my roommates Across looks like
    4a7b0e8e7f12331811dc808cff86af83.jpg
    Then I noticed my brake pad was out more than his so I pulled it in more, now it looks exactly like his and still got no pressure and no fluid out of the nipple and none of the brake lines are blocked. I’m stumped :/


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    SukiMan, Jan 31, 2018
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  18. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    Because you have removed the brake line, you now have to bleed the system which in essence is removing all the air.

    Remove your master cylinder cap and pour fresh dot 4 fluid into the mc

    Find an old water bottle and drill a small hole in the cap and use some clear hose that runs from the caliper nipple to the bottle, this will capture fluid as it goes though the system and ensure you don’t spill it on your pads or wheel

    The next step is to ensure your nipple is closed and pump the brake lever 5 times. Then while holding in the lever , loosen the nipple then lock it off again, this is called bleeding the system

    You have to keep doing it a few times ,
    If you are not getting pressure , then hold the lever in after pumping it and loosen the 12mm banjo bolt that holds the brake line to the master cylinder , loosen it a very small amount and see if you can hear some air escape then tighten it up, you only have to undo it a very small amount.

    Keep bleeding your caliper until you get pressure in the lever

    Something very important to note is that when you refitted your brake lines to your caliper and master cylinder , did you refit the copper gaskets were on either side of the banjo bolts? These are important
     
    kiffsta, Jan 31, 2018
    #78
  19. SukiMan

    SukiMan Member

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    I already did everything in the first half of that, with the bottle and tubing and all that and that’s when I noticed I wasn’t getting pressure like at all. So then I checked the brake lines, no blockages either. I actually undid the entire bit with the banjo bolting pumped the brakes just to make sure there was no blockage and fluid was coming out of it so I tightened it back on. And still nothing. It’s too dark now to do anything so I’ll try again tomorrow. If worse comes to worse I still have the caliper from the other bike to use and that might help fix the problem if it’s the caliper itself


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    SukiMan, Jan 31, 2018
    #79
  20. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    That bleed nipple looks a bit crappy inside the top of it ... have u taken it off to see if its clear/clean/undamaged inside? ... and if theres fluid coming out the caliper there?
     
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    GreyImport, Jan 31, 2018
    #80
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