Hi everyone The bike was going I was along felt the power start to go like I ran out of fuel and then it backfired and stopped. I had no power, lights or blinkers I managed to roll start her and it went but still with no blinkers etc. I thought it may be the rectifier or stator, I tried to do the checks but at a blank. The battery was flat we charged it up fully using a multimeter it read a bit over 22 volts we then connected it back up started the bike (blinkers work) kept the revs high but the multimeter didn't go up it stayed around the same voltage as before I started. Does this mean it's the stator as am I right in thinking if the volts shot up to say 15 would that mean it's the rectifier ? Any suggestions Thanks
Test your RR ..... procedure would be in the manual And this .... http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/how-do-i-test-my-12-volt-battery-and-charging-system.1794/
Sounds like your battery lost charge while riding. If it is not above 12.6V at rest it probably has dropped a cell and is stuffed. If it is still OK your charging system may be at fault which could be reg/rec or stator. Few threads on testing all that on here, have a look for the howto's.
Swap the battery with a working one, then swap the R/R for a new one. Not sure exactly what the GSX charging system is like, but below a certain RPM it might not charge the battery enough too, especially bad for a dud battery.
Where's the best place to get a reg/rec for the gsx250 will start with that and move onto the stator if that doesn't work
Are you sure that is the problem? Up to you, but I wouldn't be throwing money at the bike until I know for sure, that's a very expensive way to resolve it. This sorta thing is easy to test, look up Rick's motorsport electrics on the tube there's a couple of good videos on testing reg/rec and stator all you need is a cheap multimeter.
Checked tonight it's the regulator/ rec where can I get one fast as I want to go on the black dog ride at the end of the month? Does anyone know of one in Aus?
When the battery is fully charged does the bike run like normal? The reg/rec only converts AC to DC voltage to charge the battery - it's the battery that runs all your electrics including giving the engine spark. If your battery is buggered your bike won't run properly (or the electrics will do strange things due to low current).
hi joker Yeh the battery has been checked and fully charged. When charged you can go for a ride no problems and everything works, we checked both the stator and the rec from the video on ricks motorsports if it looks the rec is gone. I have managed to get one through face book a guy from SCR which is great hopefully it will turn up before the w/end Thanks for your help
Hi guys the rec/reg turned up we plugged it in and the same thing happened. The battery reads 12.5 volts we start the bike the volts drop a little then get back to 12.5 then at 4000-5000rpm the volts go to 12.54 and that's about it. With the reg/rec we switch the tester to volts and it reads around 44 then I rev to 5000rpm and it reads 114-225 volts on the 3 yellow wires so now I am stumped. The only thing left is the stator I found one through find apart.com for $120 so not sure weather to get that or take it to an auto elec? I want to get it fixed ASAP to go on the black dog ride with my father Inlaw as he has depression any help would be Great
When running you should be at 13.7V ish or greater. Looks like either the stator or the battery, 12.5V is borderline but the fact when you're increasing the RPM the current isn't increasing is a bit of a giveaway. Make sure you're measuring current properly, stator makes AC current, battery is DC. Those readings sound way off. Be sure your battery hasn't dropped a cell before you go playing with the stator - if you did the stator tests correctly you should easily be able to pick it.
for reference , my gsx reads about 13.2V at the battery when off and 14.6 when revved up, go buy the cheapest lead acid battery from supercheap (~$50 i think) and chuck it in if its fixed cool, if not keep it for something else. i might be able to check the AC voltage on the stator wires tomorrow if that helps The manual says they should read over 75v (5000rpm+) with the multimeter connected to two of the stator wires positive to one negative to the another untill youve done all combinations
a quick and simple stator check is to see if any of the phases are going to ground, find the 3 wires coming from the stator and use your mutimeter to test for continuity ( usually a beep) , place the negative probe on the engine case and the positive probe the each of the wires coming from the stator, if you hear a beep on any of the phases then you have a crook stator.
Hi thanks the stator wires we checked at the plug that goes into the rev/reg and none go to ground the battery is new we have recharged it again tomorrow we are going to take it for a ride to see if the battery voltage drops or manages to stay the same. Either way when we rev it it is not going up to 14 volts so I banking on the stator
Hi everyone We took the bike for a ride, the battery dropped to 12.10 volts after 2 hours riding. We will have to order the stator. I still have two questions we replaced the front brake seal when we started the ride after a couple of kms the front brake started to jam on, it's done it before and we have rechecked the seals again. I bled the front brake and for the remainder of the trip the bike was fine any thoughts? Also the positive led that comes from the rec/reg goes to the positive lead that connects to the rear brake for the light is that normal or should it go direct to the positive battery terminal
I happen to have here currently some pages which you may need now, or which will at least help you in some way, so I post 'em:
Sorry, now I realised that your bike is 1983? Then I am not sure how correct these partnumbers are, these apply for my '81 model. But I guess the pics will be still helpful!