Swapped out my clocks as the needle was broke off also fitted new speedo cable and replaced all the dash bulbs, now I know what speed im doing looked well when the fairings were off.... street fighter! and made a good speedo cluster out of two bad ones Next job is the fuel tank clean and front discs as mine are warped and tyres!!!
Yes that paint scheme is great ..... looks good mate When u do the tank , remove the tank outlet carefully as there are internal filters and an o ring ,which will probably need replacing ...... Heres what to expect.....
removed the fuel tank tonight and its not bad but defo needs a good clean as I am also doing the carbs and no point in doing that until the tank is right got a kit that cleans removes rust then seals, hopefully it does the trick
Will have to make a project thread (Edit:done!) Bloody doing a lot of work on the fzr Did all the engine coolant o ring seals as they were just weeping coolant Tested both thermo sender and switch both are fooked and new old parts ordered tested thermo stat and its perfect also looks pretty new as did the coolant Fuel tank is half way through, takes four days for the sealer to set pics
Dont know how handy you guys are with a multimeter but if you want to test either the thermo switches its pretty easy the lower one connected to the thermo stat housing is the temperature gauge sender its a variable resister so as it gets hot the resistance decreases and more voltage gets sent to the temp gauge and makes it read more ie hotter so to test it just disconnect the wire on it and stick another wire in it and put it to the chassis or earth you should mediately see the temp gauge shoot up as its getting a full 12 volt that means the sender is fooked also you can test the senders resistance if it has none at all its fooked the thermo switch is slightly different its the bigger one on top of the thermo stat housing with two connections when the engine is cold you will not get a connection or continuity across the pins but when its hot it will have continuity or the switch will close and turn on the fan to cool the engine once it cools the switch will open again and you will have no continuity hope this helps should have done more pics with the multimeter
Done the engine oil and filter today and as per usual my super unhelpful Yamaha dealer in Perth didn't want to know, the usual that's a grey import line was mentioned, not fair play to you keeping a 23 year old future classic going, they have no interest unless its a new model that you purchased direct from them
Seems thats a pretty common attitude ...... Ive been lucky here in that theres a young fella on the front desk who is very helpful and they even have the Japanese parts catalogue (that we have) on their computer. He would just print out a "quote" on everything I asked for so I could go home and compare prices and availability online . The secret is to not say what bike it is for initially ..... use part numbers. The thing is alot of parts are common with the 400 (and others) but also other Yamaha products such as jet skis, ATVs,snowmobiles etc. I only used the dealer for things I couldnt get elsewhere ... online was the go most of the time.....apart from dealers being the most expensive 99% of the time. Also things like wheel bearings arnt Yamaha parts as such.....I got all of them + seals from my local bearing place and very cheap also......same with sprockets and chains.
I am the same I use eBay or after market supplier before I go to Yamaha but I wanted a genuine oil filter and fuel filter and that's the only reason why I went there Will not be going back unless I have too
few pics of the service and my temp gauge working .... got a second hand sensor for 5 dollars oil and plugs and coolant was a bit more expensive and my make shift fuel tank .... a good idea if you want to run the bike with no fuel tank a bottle of water drained out with a 8mm hole drilled into the cap great if checking for leaks etc on top of the engine http://s127.photobucket.com/user/ek4a/media/fzrfuel018.jpg.html http://s127.photobucket.com/user/ek4a/media/fzrfuel019.jpg.html http://s127.photobucket.com/user/ek4a/media/fzrfuel020.jpg.html
Another handy trick for a make shift fuel tank use the top of a washing up liquid bottle it will screw onto the bigger 2 litre bottles and the pipe fits nicely too for future referance just make sure it,s ok with the missus first
I bought a 50cc quad bike tank froma Chinese Quad bike shop and fitted some clear hose and a small fuel tap at the end, works a treat for me http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=281114423007&fromMakeTrack=true
Had a busy week with the fizzer fitted genuine temp sensor and thermo switch, the last guy instead of fixing the thermo switch wired in a manual micro switch to turn on the fan also fitted new cush rubbers to the sprocket/hub as mine were flogged out as it was snatching rolling on the throttle and fitted brand new to the market Michelin street radials 110/17 on the front and 140/17 on the rear they have the same thread pattern as pilot power 2 and are super sticky!!! they have completely changed the feel of the bike, feels like its on rails on the corners and there still not fully bedded in yet although takes a little more to turn in because of the wider track but happy so far few pics http://s127.photobucket.com/user/ek4a/media/fzrtyres021.jpg.html http://s127.photobucket.com/user/ek4a/media/fzrtyres022.jpg.html http://s127.photobucket.com/user/ek4a/media/fzrtyres025.jpg.html http://s127.photobucket.com/user/ek4a/media/fzrtyres026.jpg.html http://s127.photobucket.com/user/ek4a/media/fzrtyres027.jpg.html
More work this week got my metal gear discs and pads and have to say i am impressed with the quality My old discs were so bad that the rivets holding the two piece discs together were spinning and I could bend the friction part away from the hubmust have been some cheapy ebay **** next job is to clean or replace the calliper pistons and bleed the brakes with some sporty brake fluid most important pics!! and one side shot of the engine I like ha ha
The clutch gave up at the weekend started to slip in third gear have a kit ordered comes with all friction discs and new springs will put a few pics up when I remove the old one got a EBC kit for 100 delivered probable could have sanded the friction discs and swapped them around to get a few more k,s but would probable of let me down after another few k,s
Think your correct, I've seen this done before but the fellow doing it didn't bother cleaning the steel plates??? Is the steels aren't cleaned well, you have wasted your time. Good luck with it mate.
few photos of the clutch removed also while I am waiting for the clutch kit to arrive I have removed the carbys to clean and check them over, not as dirty as I was expecting and so far the o rings ect look good and once cleaned will get them synced, but some crap came out of the float bowls only half way through still have to remove the jets and diaphragm ect
Few pics of the carbys stripped down and clean and jets removed soaked the parts in cider vinegar overnight and they came out looking very clean just one thing I spotted was that there is another in-line filter/gauze on the fuel inlet into the carbys, mine was fine but could easily catch people out if it was blocked http://s127.photobucket.com/user/ek4a/media/carbyfinished043.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1 http://s127.photobucket.com/user/ek4a/media/carbyfinished042.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2 http://s127.photobucket.com/user/ek4a/media/carbyfinished041.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3 http://s127.photobucket.com/user/ek4a/media/carbyfinished040.jpg.html?sort=3&o=4 http://s127.photobucket.com/user/ek4a/media/carbyfinished039.jpg.html?sort=3&o=5 http://s127.photobucket.com/user/ek4a/media/carbyfinished038.jpg.html?sort=3&o=6