Before I start my long post I'd like to apologise because I'm asking for a lot of information throughout my post but any help/input is appreciated! So after losing my licence I have decided to strip my bike down to the frame and reassemble it to track specs (No lights etc.) and so far here is what I plan to do. What my question for you is are my intended mods possible or practical and is there anything else I should do and anything that I shouldn't do? -Individual pod air filters on the carburetors -Exup exhaust. (Is the head from the 3LN interchangable with the 2KR to make this mod simpler?) with a stubby pipe coming from the side -USD Forks (Depending on how difficult they are to install) -Braided SS brake lines -R6 rear shock (would like information about the different dog bone e.g. where do you get one to make these compatible or do you need to get one custom made?) -Spark plugs and leads (Looking at the leads, are they connected to the coil packs or do they disconnect from them somehow?) -Larger radiator (Thinking one from a Hyosung GT250) -New clutch/brake levers (The only problem im having with these so far is finding ones that fit! Anyone know where to get some?) -New tail end (How hard is it to get an aprilia or R6 tail to fit?) I also have a couple more questions. Firstly is to do with my front brakes. Every time I applied them they would grip hard and loosen up rapidly. They passed a warrant of fitness and they guy reckoned there could be a problem with the "master seal" (wondering what he means by this, whether it is in the caliper or the reservoir) a few mates have said it could be a bent rotor. I was just wondering if anyone has any ideas on what it could be. Would it be beneficial to replace the whole system on the front? I also wanted to ask if anyone knows which parts are interchangable from the 3LN to 2KR and which parts on the FZR400 are compatible as well. I have read on a few topics that the spark plugs and leads are all the same in the 3LN, 2KR and FZR400 and the swingarm can be replaced with a Honda NSR's but does anyone know any other useful compatible parts? One final thing! I have started to re-loom the bike and I have taken out 2 wires that ran from the clutch lever. What are these for and will it stop the bike from starting? One of the wires (Black with yellow stripe) led to some sort of relay or component at the rear of the bike and I was wondering if that was a necesary part as well. Sorry for my long post!! Any help would be great! Cheers P.S. Also is there anything that I should or can do with the bike completely in pieces? <!-- s:biker4: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/th_Biker_4.gif" alt=":biker4:" title="Biker 4" /><!-- s:biker4: -->
Where are you based and what series do you plan on racing it in, this can have an effect on what you want to do. I would not bother with exup as that is only going to improve the lower rev range - which you won't be using on a race bike. Removing the airbox may stop you from racing in some 250 production classes depending on the rules at the club you plan on racing. Clean everything and replace any bearings that are less than perfect will make a big difference! Cheers Simon
+1 to checking the rules - there are few things more frustrating than spending hour$ and hour$ modding your bike, only to be told that it's illegal six ways from Tuesday! Pod filters - make sure you use a stand-off tube the same inner length as the airbox boot. Directly mounting pods on the carb throat results in a tuned length that's much too short, and screws up your midrange. EXUP header - you'll need a 3LN head and cams to use this effectively. I disagree with Simidau; this isn't a 400 or 600, these things have serious performance differences below 10k without the EXUP. And before you say "It's a race bike, you'll never run that low", let me tell you - yes, you will. Tight, slow corners can drop you down out of the power band, and if you're sitting there bogged, the pack will leave you in the dust. Use a real muffler; the intake and exhaust is designed for it. SS brake lines - Absolutely! If the rules permit, upgrade to an R6 master cyl. USD forks - not necessarily required, given the light weight of the bike. A fully adjustable standard fork might be just as beneficial, and a lot easier to get past the scrutineers if the rules frown on changing the forks! Alternate brake / clutch levers - the R6 has all sorts of funky options; the levers won't fit on the brake master and clutch perch, but the R6 master and clutch perch can fit directly on the bars.
