Hi guys, I've recently replaced my engine with another 1HX motor, I had the replacement engine compression tested and the starter motor was working. After installing the engine and connecting all the wires to the rest of the bike I went to connect the battery and it kicked over by itself soon as I hooked the battery, there was no key and ignition was off, i removed the positive lead soon as i heard it starting. I reconnected it to confirm it was kicking over by itself and nothing is responding now, theres no horn or any lights. I checked the main fuse by the battery and it appears untouched. I couldn't remember exactly where the main power lead from the starter motor went so I attached it to the thing the positive lead from battery runs off to by the battery because i remember taking a lead off that when I removed the first motor. The battery has been fully charged prior, it sparks when connecting the leads. What have i done wrong? cheers
Re: No power after reconnecting uh oh The "thing" u refer to would be the starter solenoid and would look a bit like this... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/YAMAHA-F...39?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item460a4a05d7 Not sure exactly whats happened but I would be checking the wiring again to make sure its all connected right.
Re: No power after reconnecting uh oh I've seen what I've done. The terminals on the starter solenoid were touching when i connected the battery. I have power and it kicks over. Thanks for the help <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt="" title="Smile" /><!-- s -->
Re: No power after reconnecting uh oh Solenoid could be history..could have moisture or corrosion inside...but check all the connections are clean and tight and your main earth connection from battery is good...also that batt connections are clean and tight. Clicking then nothing could be the batt isnt full power.....Ive read these bikes need 100% power to start. The other little trick which Ive done with cars is a few taps on the starter can sometimes free them up if they have stuck.
Re: No power after reconnecting uh oh Ahh good stuff......u were editing while I was replying! <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: -->
Re: No power after reconnecting uh oh I've got a new problem, the bike only starts while holding throttle half open and kept there and it won't respond to any throttle it just idles weakly while holding the throttle open. It dies if I let the throttle go and it almost wants to die if give it full throttle. I think its firing on all cylinders doesn't sound like it misses and all bowls are full. I cleaned the carb bowls with a can of carb cleaner I didn't touch the floats or the diaphragm side. Does it sound like a carb problem or valve problem? I have another set of carbs i'll try them tomorrow and see if it changes anything.
Well... Just tried other set of carbies i can't get it to fire up at all with that set. And I just changed and cleaned the spark plugs also and still nothing. I also recharged the battery over night. The first set of carbs I can get the bike to fire on its own with half the throttle open and kept there.. though It has no response to rev's other than idling with half throttle. I'm out of ideas <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_sad.gif" alt="" title="Sad" /><!-- s -->
I've just tried spraying CRC directly into the intakes with out the carbs on while kicking it over and i get firing on each cylinder. So take it theres spark. HELP PLEASE <!-- s:-? --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_Eyecrazy.gif" alt=":-?" title="Eye Crazy" /><!-- s:-? --> <!-- s:dknow: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/th_dontknow.gif" alt=":dknow:" title="Don't Know" /><!-- s:dknow: --> <!-- s:help2: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/th_Help_2.gif" alt=":help2:" title="Help 2" /><!-- s:help2: -->
I'm re-setting the timing and checking it again, is it possible to be at TDC at the flywheel and cylinder one is not TDC. I did a valve adjustment and I think I put the cams back when cylinder 1 was not TDC. I think that might be why its not starting, do I put a screw driving through cylinder 1 to check if its TDC? cheers EDIT: can I confirm with someone that the T - O mark on the flywheel lined up with the pointing arrow that pokes out on the motor casing which is at 1 o clock is TDC?
The flywheel can only go on the crankshaft in one position (has a keyway) and will have the correct relationship to the pistons, so spark timing will be correct. The camshaft timing is a different story, as it is possible to get it wrong. Align timing marks on magneto/flywheel to crankcase marker ( the "T" mark as shown in the top picture on page 5-16 of the 250 manual ), ensuring cylinder 1 is on TDC compression (on the spigot end of the camshafts left hand side there are indents that should be at the top and lined up perfectly with mark on cam bearing journal). Camshaft lobes will be pointing directly away from each other for the cylinder on TDC compression stroke.
I've taken the cams off and reset them a few times. I'm having trouble getting both cams to line up with the dots on the guides. right now the intake cam is back from the dot about 1 or 2mm and exhaust is in perfect line. this is about as good as I can get it, its either intake or exhaust that ends up 2mm off when the other is bang on perfect. The problem im having is when I go to tighten everything up, the flywheel and cams move. especially when i apply tension to the chain, it will move the cams. Or if I leave slack between the cams, when I turn the flywheel after everything tightened, the intake cam will move alone until the tension is taken between the two cams. Is where it is now fine or do I need them both perfectly inline?
heres a picture of it to get a better idea http://www.flickr.com/photos/91266500@N02/8286242117/in/photostream http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8070/8286249981_132de806e3_z.jpg
When you replace the cams and tighten everything back up, is the chain tensioner attached or off? Vaguely remembering comments I've seen on the FZR Archives, tighten the exhaust cam first, keeping its alignment perfect. Install the intake cam next; you may need to have its mark slightly forward, and it will pull back once the tensioner is replaced. Don't forget to dismantle and reset the tensioner each time! Trying to install it extended will cause lots of problems, ranging from incorrect timing (ahem) to broken cams! <!-- s:-? --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_Eyecrazy.gif" alt=":-?" title="Eye Crazy" /><!-- s:-? -->
What Don says sounds about right. I vaguely remember that I had to start off with my cams slightly offset so that they ended up in the correct spot when the tensioner was applied.
I take the tensioner completely off before taking the cams off, and replacing the tensioner after the cams are tightened down, yes i push the ratchet tensioner in before putting it back.. i dont think you can put it back in when its out?. I will try that, have been starting with the intake cam then exhaust. Thanks
