Hey guys i bought my fzr 250 1988 2kr a few months back now and havent really had time to fix it. I'm going to be taking it to a garage to repair and i have a list of problems i've been able to observe. i just want to possible reasons why these problems pop up and the possible total cost of fixing all this. 1. gears can not be shifted unless the bike is in motion 2. unreliable choke (sometimes works and the bike warms up in 2 minutes or sometimes dosent work at all, i have to rev it for 15 minutes straight) 3. Unable to hill start at all ( bike just powers down after letting the clutch out and just turns off) 4. laboured starting on small inclines ( sometimes it will move forward ever so slowly until it builds up speed again) 5. lazy alternator (dosent charge the battery when idling) 6. When going up a hill and the engine is in labour, when shifting to a lower gear, the engine will power down. Cheers guys
Your problems sound like a combination of dirty, out of sync carbs and a mis-adjusted clutch. Strip, clean, and adjust your carbs; adjust your clutch at the sprocket cover. You may also need to adjust your EXUP cables. For the hill starts, remember that this is a 250 4-cyl, not a 500cc thumper - "torque" is not part of the discussion. You need revs, and you need to feather the clutch. It's not unusual for the transmission to be reluctant to shift more than one gear either way when at a stop; you often need to rock the bike a little. This holds for any bike, or any other vehicle with a sequential shift. Bear in mind that when rowing through the gears of a standard H-pattern tranny on a car, you still are only moving each gear set up or down one selection. As to the charging issue, that is the nature of a permanent magnet alternator. I have never seen one that reaches the break even point below 3k, and I normally suggest to people testing their regulators to measure the voltage at 5k rpm. At idle, you are simply running off the battery. Interestingly, the same thing happens as you approach redline - the power consumption of a wasted-spark TCI system firing faster and faster begins to outpace the alternator's capacity to feed it, and you once again start using the battery.
Hey dontz, when you talk about "You need revs, and you need to feather the clutch" How high in terms of revs and how does one feather the clutch?
Check that the EXUP valve is functioning normally. Major loss of torque at low RPM is a symptom of the EXUP staying fully open when it should be shut (fully anti-clockwise when viewed from gear change side.) Exup opens gradually from 3-5000rpm to fully open at 10,000rpm. When you turn the ignition on it should cycle fully open then shut.
Interesting, how I am finding that for my type of riding, I am basically running a total-loss setup LOL. The battery has no chance of being recharged. I have to put it on a charger whether I like it or not ... The other I bought lithium battery .... oh boy, not really that good for the older bikes who cannot charge at 14.5V ..... which basically makes the issue even worse than when old lead-acid battery type is used. The charging system back in a day were really poorly designed, especially on the FZR line of bikes. My friends FZR400, the same story .... probably the voltage regulator etc.
Hey guys i've got an update on some slow progress ( the mechanic is super busy) So i've taken the bike to the mechanic about a few weeks ago to let him have a look. He says i should replace the regulator as aparently my my hasnt been running at the right voltage 12v instead of the usual 14v? (i'm quite unsure what the usual voltage was but the bike was runnning 2v under normal) He also said i should replace the stator generator as my bike isnt holding its charge, he dosen't believe there is a problem with the TCI unit at the moment. So i've been scrounging on the net for some stator generators from wrecked bikes. The question is can i use any type of generator from the fzr250 line? I've been able to find a 1991model fzr 250. Would it also be recommended to change the battery at the same time? Mine seems to be fairly old. What type of batteries should I be looking for. And the last question is are there any carburettor rebuild kits for fzr 250 2kr at the moment?
Batteries hold the charge, not the alternator. BUY yourself a cheap digital multimeter (~$10), measure the battery volts as I described above. Idle approx 12v, and at 5000rpm approx 14volts. Most unlikely the magnets in the alternator have lost their magnetism. Alternator windings can fail but not common, and there is a test procedure for that. Rectifier/Regulators (R/R) fail more commonly. Be your own mechanic for these simple things.
Hey Dave i did the readings for you. I Tested the batteries charge and when idle i got a range of 12.13-12.20v ( the readings kept changing a lot) and at 5000rpm approx 13.36V
Ok 13.5 volts is probably at the very bottom of what I would expect to be at the battery terminals, but it would charge at that. If your battery is going flat overnight then the most likely culprit is the rectifier/regulator.
I've been discussing this a lot of late on the other FZR sites, and there are a few points to check. First, clean your battery - not just the terminals, but the top of it as well; crusty terminals have a very high resistance, and a layer of crud across the top between terminals can act as a bleed resistor, draining your battery overnight. Check the condition and security of the hot wire at the starter solenoid - contrary to what the wiring diagram shows, the 600s run the red wire from the VRR to the solenoid first, then the battery. In a perfect world, it makes no difference, but if your starter wire is loose or corroded, it can make a BIG difference.
I will look for the said parts and try to clean and check them. My battery does not drain over night but the noise when i hit the starter gets quite dull if used or unused after about 3-4 days. It seems my battery dosent charge even when running. On bikes my friends own they never have to charge their batteries.
So i've taken dontz advice and cleaned the terminals with a steel brush. I'll leave it connected for a few days to see how well the battery holds its charge. I've started looking for some R/Rs and i dont know whether to go original parts or aftermarket. I've heard the aftermarket ones are made better than the original ones and actually provide more performance? I found this off ebay how does it look? <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SYSTEM-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-YAMAHA-FZR-FZ-250-FZR250-250RR-LN-90-DAY-WARRANTY-/270836049014?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f0f162476">http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SYSTEM-REGUL ... 3f0f162476</a><!-- m --> ----------------------------------- by dave ยป Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:48 pm Check that the EXUP valve is functioning normally. Major loss of torque at low RPM is a symptom of the EXUP staying fully open when it should be shut (fully anti-clockwise when viewed from gear change side.) Exup opens gradually from 3-5000rpm to fully open at 10,000rpm. When you turn the ignition on it should cycle fully open then shut. ----------------------------------- So i this is what it looks like right now: And the video of it: ( it was pitch black at night with the help of a dying torch but i hope its enough) 10,000rpms at the 0:33 min mark <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://youtu.be/KGN-KecrPD0">http://youtu.be/KGN-KecrPD0</a><!-- m -->
I had some friends who watched my video and suggested the sounds at the 0:11 second mark are related to loose valves and that my valve clearances need to be checked. I'm totally blank faced as to what this means but does this seem a posibility for the reason im experiencing a major loss in torque at low rpm? (now that the exup is ruled out)
That's the jangly sound of an EXUP valve with loose (worn) bushings; notice it damps right out as the cables take up the slack. Also, too-loose intakes won't cause lack of power on the top-end; besides, these bikes are NOT known for loose intakes - they tighten up to the point of causing hard starting. This is quite odd - have the carbs been apart? I'm wondering if some clever lad hasn't swapped the Starter jets and the Main jets ...
I am most likely already the 3rd to 4th owner of this bike already. I plan to open the carbs soon and im not expecting anything good. From the amount of dirt and grease absolutely everywhere im certain the previous owners didnt care less about it. Before i take my fuel tank off the owners manual suggests me to turn the fuel tap off so that i dont have to drain it. The tap has been pointing up ever since i got it and the engravings of the fuel tap positions have worn off. What is the current ON, OFF and RES directions?
