Lower idling when bike is in upright position??

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by Shmacko, Jul 22, 2009.

  1. Shmacko

    Shmacko New Member

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    Nevermind, i sorta figured it out.. so i changed the multimeter to the V~ sign to measure AC current.
    I unplugged the three white wires 'plug' that was leading to another plug that attaches to the r/r. I stuck the multimeter leads into the plug coming form the alternator (i assume) and randomly picked two of the three leads to take a reading. The bike was idling and I got around 23V. I gave it a hard rev and it 'justttt' went over 50V~

    So can I conclude that it may/may not be the r/r and that I should start taking out the alternator cover to have a look?.

    Btw which is the alternator cover? The cover that has the 'YAMAHA' engraved onto it?
     
  2. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    There are 3 combinations of white wires that you can measure with the volt meter. Say we call the white wires A, B and C.
    Unplugged from the bike, measure all three combos, A-B, A-C and B-C make sure they are all the same voltage.

    Also with the engine stopped, measure the resistance of each of those combinations. Should get 0.36ohms +- 20% in the specs.
    Also measure the resistance of one white to the metal of the engine. I would expect it to be very high (over 10,000ohms)

    The alternator is rated at 14 volts 19amps at 5000rpm, and yes it under the side cover you mentioned.

    Unless you have an irregularity with the readings, change the regulator.
     
  3. Shmacko

    Shmacko New Member

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    Yep i remember testing all of them and they all read around 23-24V idle and around 50V~ when given a rev.

    Ok i wasn't sure how to measure the resistance..so I put it on 20M in the Ohm setting, i think it's the Greek letter omega?

    Then I measured the white wires coming from the alternator. I got around high 17's to low 19's. I have no idea what that means but it would not show reading until i took off the multimeter leads.

    I tried the white to the metal of the engine, but I got a '1' on the multimeter which i assume it's the wrong setting. I tried all of the Ohm units and they were all similar.

    cheers
     
  4. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    A 1 would mean it could not measure anything, over range.. means ok, no leakage, not shorted to ground, etc.

    I have seen digital multimeters that don't measure resistance in coils properly which might explain those funny results, but all the other readings seem good.

    Looking REGULATOR problem..
     
  5. Shmacko

    Shmacko New Member

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    So is it normal even if i need to rev to like mid+ RPM's to just get 50V from the alternator?

    And for the regulator, should I look at ebay ones or should I drop by wreckers and pick up an OEM one? I read that someone plugged in a kawasaki one and all was good.

    Just wondering if the kawasaki ones just plug in or would it need to be modified?

    Thanks again Dave... I'm nearly there....... <!-- s:dban: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/th_Dancing_Bananna.gif" alt=":dban:" title="dancing bananna" /><!-- s:dban: -->
     
  6. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    Most R/R's seem to be 5 wire (including the ground connection) 3 for alternator, one for power out.
    From this site <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/articles/how-motorcycle-charging-system-works.php">http://www.electrosport.com/technical-r ... -works.php</a><!-- m --> I have quoted part of the page as it explains the simple regulator setup very well..

     
  7. Shmacko

    Shmacko New Member

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    Thanks for all the help, I'll look at getting another r/r and see how I go.

    I'll report back when I get it installed.. when I get the time.

    Thanks <!-- s:-| --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_bike.gif" alt=":-|" title="Bike" /><!-- s:-| -->
     
  8. glen5122

    glen5122 New Member

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    yes thats the alternator on the left
     

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