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FZR temperamental

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by say_wat, May 3, 2008.

  1. say_wat

    say_wat New Member

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    So i bought suicid3's fzr, it wasn't running but it is now *phew* i think it was something blocking or choking the carbies... after pulling it out and checking all the fuel lines etc, it started working itself (I didn't give it a clean coz i couldn't get the bloody carby screws off - going to go the injector cleaner route first).


    My problem is that the bike smokes like a MOFO! the smoke smells like a 2 stroke lawnmower smoke, so i'm assuming it is burning oil... i dont see any oil in the radiator, nor do i see any oil dripping anywhere. What should be the first thing to look at to stop all that smoke?

    A second problem is that it just shuts off out of no where... when i come to a stop, or after revving it, going forward and stopping. Sometimes it'll shut even if i put it into gear from idle - clutch still in !!


    PS: I'm planning on changing oil filter and oil in the next few days (as soon as assignments and exams are over). Would this help much?
     
  2. Pesqueezo

    Pesqueezo New Member

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    Sorry I probably can't offer much in the way of advice...but I just recently bought a fizzer (3LN) aswell.. I got it serviced before i rode it and the mechanic (who is apparently renowned in the area) said she was a sweet buy for a 3LN... However...I have suffered several times the bike just shutting off for no reason, mostly like you said, when i am in traffic and just moving forward then i pull the clutch in and back off the throttle and MOFO indeed she just dies on me....I have had to adjust my riding style to suit this by everytime i am just creeping forward, starting stopping etc i just pull the clutch in and go Vroom, vroom Vroom on the throttle seevral times until i stop again to keep it going.... But its only a temp fix coz obviously something aint right.... Also Everyone is raving about the fule injector cleaner so i gave it a go last weekend....filled up with fuel, put 1/6 a bottle of injector cleaner in and took off up the Blue mountains on a aride... once i got up there after about an hour of solid riding...the bike just stopped stone cold...and for an hour would not start.....then when it did....BOOOOOOOOM out of the exhaust blew a PHAT cloud of black smoke, the bike sounded like sh*t and continued to go like that for atleast another hour or so.....i dont know if Injector cleaner had anything to do with it ( as admittedly i am a noob with bikes still) but it was the only time it behaved like that...big black clouds and sh*t spewing forth from the exhaust...so as for me..no more injector cleaner...what i have found (after trying just about every make and octane of fuel imaginable) really works well is BP Ultimate 98... she runs really smooth and idles properly and takes off with no bog down spots at all..... sorry probably a bit <!-- s:offtopic: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_offtopic.gif" alt=":offtopic:" title="Off Topic" /><!-- s:offtopic: --> but got on a roll there with my 2 bobs worth <!-- s:D --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s:D -->

    I guess to some up my point is since my bike was only serviced 4 weeks ago, and everything seems in good shape, I am wondering if a carbie clean will solve my stop start conk problem aswell...the premium has seemed to help..the injectore cleaner didnt.
     
  3. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    Try some reasonable quality oil to see if that is the problem with the smoke. Are you sure some one has not put some 2 stroke fuel out of a can in the bike?

    When does the smoke appear? after slowing down and then hitting throttle, that's a sign of worn valve stems or bad stem seals..

    Stalling can some times be the idle speed set too low. 1,600rpm is the correct idle speed. Also set the idle mix screws as per recommendations. Do a search for the correct setting <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://fzr250.com/search.php">http://fzr250.com/search.php</a><!-- m -->
     
  4. say_wat

    say_wat New Member

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    Thanks guys for the replies... Well i took her for a bit of an extended ride today for the first time - it was utter HELL lol. She kept stopping even after the blipping, and take off is a headache because the revs are so variable sudden jolts of power and power reduction (perhaps exup related?). The idle is set very high (around 2.5 - can't tell as it starts at 3) just to remedy the stalling issue but i don't think it helps much. I'm assuming that the bike is flooding when coming to a stop - as either it'll stop fully or the throttle will become totally unresponsive and it'll barely sputter along as if starved for petrol even if i'm rolling the throttle fully ... I'm sure that's a carby issue and can be remedied with a full clean and a balancing (i hope?).

    Most importantly, the smoke is going to give me cancer! It smokes a LOT when first started and keeps smoking even after its warmed up. Once i ride off it seems to smoke less (but it doesn't stop!) i can still smell it (the strong lawnmower smell <!-- s:o --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_surprised.gif" alt=":o" title="Surprised" /><!-- s:o -->) at the lights although it reduces visibally. I had to park on the footpath today, poor people that were walking past at that time were probably getting suffocated.

    Dave I replaced the petrol with new unleaded so no chance of 2stroke mixing - i'm hoping its just the valve stems (cheaper?) rather than worn pistons or something expensive... <!-- s:cry: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_cry.gif" alt=":cry:" title="Crying or Very sad" /><!-- s:cry: --> How do i exactly check the valve stems on the fizzer?
     
  5. madmick82

    madmick82 Active Member

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    sounds like your defitnalty burning oil, but welcome to the world of fzr's. when there right there a dream, when they start to play up then FCK me your over it.. but nothing you cant learn here from this wonderful forum and ppl. its kept me on the road rather than at the bike shop looking at others like cbr's and zx2r's ans so on.
     
  6. say_wat

    say_wat New Member

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    Hehe, I know, I saw a cbr250 today while mine was flooded on the side of the road doing the idle tune with the non-responsive throttle ... the guy was so carefree got off the bike ran to the shops and popped back on the bike and rode off... so envious... mine dies at the slightest uphill gradient!

    I do miss riding my r1 <!-- s:( --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_sad.gif" alt=":(" title="Sad" /><!-- s:( --> It is such a good bike, does wat its told and always predictable... while looking nice <!-- s:D --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s:D --> Perhaps its time to re-register it lol.

    PS to everyone: What is the skill level involved in changing the Valve Stem Seals (considering i can do valve clearence checks etc)?? How bout approx cost at mechanics?
     
  7. FOXY

    FOXY New Member

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    ive had similar problems when i first got mine, flooding, smoke, stalling

    found out my floaters were incorrect size so that got fixed (fixed the flooding)
    smoke (burning oil) most likely from what you said i've been told it's probably valve seals. watch out for ur engine oil level too!
    and stalling i've adjusted the idling, sure she revs abit after a run but settles down after 30 secs.

    good luck buddy!
     
  8. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    Valve stem seals should be able to be changed without removing the head, however the valve shim buckets need to come out and also the springs removed. You would need to do keep the cylinder that you are working on pressurised using a compressor connected to the spark plug hole.

    Make sure the cylinder is at top dead centre so the valves can't fall in to the cylinder and the engine is locked so it does not turn with the compressed air pressure.

    The plus side is that you would only need to do the inlet valves as exhaust valve stems don't dribble oil when the bike is running, only the inlet valves have vacuum which pulls the oil thru.

    Try using good oil in the bike first to see if the problem clears before attempting the dismantle job.
     
  9. say_wat

    say_wat New Member

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    Thanks guys... will take all that into account. By the way whats a "Good oil" - thicker better for this old bike?
     
  10. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    Any of these, preferably in a 20w-40 grade

    <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?t=2838">http://fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?t=2838</a><!-- m -->
     
  11. say_wat

    say_wat New Member

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    Guys, i'm going with the Penrite HPR GAS 20W60 (sounds awesome, say it out loud :p)

    <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.penrite.com.au/html/s02_article/article_view.asp?art_id=110&nav_cat_id=127&nav_top_id=55">http://www.penrite.com.au/html/s02_arti ... _top_id=55</a><!-- m -->

    Is it Over-kill? I haven't used it yet so i can return it ofcourse.
     
  12. Mattching

    Mattching New Member

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    Have you checked that the FZR cables are the right way round. The exup should be shut at low revs and open at high, it is easy to have them on backwards and this would make your bike run like ****.
     
  13. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    I would say it is too thick for your engine, go for something a bit thinner than 60
     
  14. brad1

    brad1 New Member

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    I tend to agree, the 20w60 is really too thin for the poor old 250cc. Consider it if you are really hard into it ie racing.
     
  15. say_wat

    say_wat New Member

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    Just an update folks, I've been running 20w60 (it was too late, i had already used it) since May - Thats all throughout winter - and I must say it was perfect for the motorcycle. It starts first go every time, wasn't smoking much, and runs okay in all. Ofcourse my motorcycle is running rich in general and I haven't had the time to fix the carbs due to uni and all but engine and gearbox wise the 20w60 is performing great. I will be using it again.
     

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