What is your Fuel consumption??

I did found a post they said the fuel consumption of FZR250(3LN) is 51km per liter at 50km/h?? I dont think that much.
http://www.fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?t=327

Full tank (12Liters, not include 2Lt reserve tank) of my bike can run abt 220km-230km. I am using BP ultimate 98Fuel, and I always runs via freeway.

What is your bike fuel consumption? <!-- s:-? --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_Eyecrazy.gif" alt=":-?" title="Eye Crazy" /><!-- s:-? -->

 

i have a 1990 fzr 250 3ln and mine can go about 165 kms (give or take) on a full tank driveing normal if i was hard then round 150kms no the best for fuel but i love it

 

For the 3LN-3 fuel consumption generally goes something like this:-

Poorly tuned = 120km's
Out of tune = 140km's
Properly tuned = 160km's
Excellent = 200km's+

 

I usually get 200km+ out of a tank
1990 3ln-1 with 65000km's on the clock...clock MAY have been tampered with, one never knows with imports(or domestic for that fact)

 

Tuning makes a great difference, just like it does with a car engine.

Motorbikes are considerably more highly tuned than a car engine.

Tuning also includes maintainence.

You'll find fuel consumption will vary from bike to bike.

 

3ln1 '89 model.

I get 230-260kms out of my tank using BP ultimate. Thats when i ride to work in normal traffic doing 20-80 kmph 8 mins each way twice daily.

 

2kr - 170 TO 200K before reserve.(10L)

 

Dang it, wish i lived only 8 minutes from work.

 

I got something like 148kms that was to reserve.. that was doing between 80 and 130 on some country roads so im guessing it would have been to like 160 or 165km on the full tank or maybe even more.. I have never run her completely dry

 

You don't run her completely dry, you run her until you hit reserve.

Calculate your avergage from there. Just make sure when the engine conks out (well during it's conking) you turn to reserve.

 

hey to all you bp ultimate users, just out of curiosity, how does your bike run? do u have problems in the lower revs?

 

Running premium / unleaded on our bikes will do didly squat.

I ain't gonna bother getting into this one.

 

My bike runs much cheaper on unleaded <!-- s:roll: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_roll.gif" alt=":roll:" title="Rolling LoL" /><!-- s:roll: --> <!-- s:roll: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_roll.gif" alt=":roll:" title="Rolling LoL" /><!-- s:roll: --> <!-- s:roll: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_roll.gif" alt=":roll:" title="Rolling LoL" /><!-- s:roll: -->

 

it did a hell of a lot in mine! (in a bad way!)

 

Grrr smart ass you know what I mean.

Nice site too mate. Really makes me appreciate my bike even more. 1993 model with single front headlight. Really nice, just the fairings are stuffed (been welded) on the right side.

 

Man ive gotta seriously think about doing some tuning, at present im lucky if i can even pump out 110 km before reserve, and im on a 3ln3! Is there a quick and easy way or to i need to go get my floats balanced?

 

Float heights "set" and carbs "balanced".... yes and you should also check for worn needles and needle jets (emulsion tubes).

 

Thanks for setting it straight Tim. <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: -->

The things that will be causing the abysmal fuel economy are as follows:-

1. Carb's not balanced

This means that due to wear & tear in the carbs they are no longer delivering the same amount of fuel to each cylinder. At idle it may only be slightly out, at high rpm it may be so out of kilt that one cylinder is running dangerously lean and another is running horrifically rich.

2. Carb's dirty

This means that instead of the fuel atomizing and flowing mixed uniformly with air into the cylinder to be ignited, the fuel is not properly atomizing meaning it's pouring down the walls of the carbs and probably just seeping into the cylinder where is will be inefficiently combusted. This means that whilst the right amount of fuel is being used, your not getting the performance you should, and as such may also cause rich symptoms to appear.

3. Needles and emulsion tubes worn

Quite simply this is the most common cause for poor performance with 99% of all FZR's on the road in Australia. The needles and tubes in the little FZR's are apparently some of the softest that have been used on a high-revving sports bike, meaning they're going to wear out rather quick.
What happens is that if you spend alot of time at, for example, 100km/h in 6th gear, the needle position required to achieve the correct mix will unevenly wear the needle, and will allow more fuel than should be delivered to the cylinder. A picture is worth a thousand words, but imagine a perfectly geometric cone (ice cream cone style shape), and then squeeze the cone so the middle section is thinner than it should be. That squashed section will allow more fuel past it than was intended. By the same token, the emulsion tubes that the needles move inside of (the other surface controlling the fuel flow) will also wear over time, and will have the reverse effect to the needles such that they will cavitate - again allowing more fuel to pass than intended.

There's a few things you can do to work around this problem, but in the end your going to want to replace the needles and emulsion tubes. To dodge the issue, you can change the gearing of the bike so your running at a different rpm and throttle position for a given speed. Or you can drop or raise the needle circlips, which will have an adverse reaction that it may run lean or rich elsewhere in the rev range.

4. Float heights set

The little plastic balls inside the carbs determine how much fuel is allowed into the float bowls, which in turn will determine how much fuel is waiting or pressuring it's way through the needles/emulsion tubes. Checking the float heights is very very easy and can be done with a piece of tube, a screwdriver, a ruler, and a total of 10 minutes (including removing the tank and airbox). To re-set the float heights however takes a bit longer; there's a post elsewhere on the site about setting float heights.

5. Engine condition

Not someything that can be easily fixed, but regular servicing will help maintain a healthy engine. Also worth mentioning is that it's futile to start doing things like balancing of carbs until you've done the valve clearances. Whilst it may sound rather scary, valve clearances are one of the first things someone who want's to get into an engine can do fairly easily in the home garage. A set of feeler gauges, a torque wrench, and a tool set is all thats really required to check them; and a magnet and replacement shims and a bit of time, effort & math skills are required to get it right.

6. Tyre pressure, chain condition & bearing condition

Seems like a stupid one, but if your tyre pressure is too low then it will adversely effect your fuel economy. Just as if your wheel bearings are shagged they will increase the drag and require more effort to resist the bike stopping. A worn out or un-cared for chain & sprockets will also contribute to poor fuel economy, again increasing the required energy to keep the bike moving at a constant speed.

edit: I might add that to a 'Why is my fuel economy so bad?' sticky if people find that post helpful. I hope i didn't just waste 10 minutes typing that up.

 

Awesome post. If you're making it a sticky, maybe add in the links to the appropriate how-to's?


Here, just to get you started...


carb balancing by Ciaran:
<!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?p=15126#15126">viewtopic.php?p=15126#15126</a><!-- l -->
carb balancing by Trevor and Jarmizz:
<!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?t=673&highlight=carb+balance">viewtopic.php?t=673&highlight=carb+balance</a><!-- l -->

check valve clearance by brad:
<!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?t=1597&highlight=valve+clearance">viewtopic.php?t=1597&highlight=valve+clearance</a><!-- l -->

{Boz edit: changed names to give correct credit. I don't know much about carbs - I simply compiled what others have said}

 

I have no idea how it runs. i just put it in to make me look cool!

----I'M KIDDING-----

Many people have different opinions on BP Ultimate, me i dont.

I filled my tank twice with normal unleaded, got 170kms out of it. Mind u that was the first 2 weeks i had my bike. um.. whether or not i used more fuel due to just gettin my license and bike, not too sure. I then filled it up with BP Ultimate for the 3rd week, and i got 240kms out of it.
Since i have got more experienced with riding my bike, im more aware of how i ride it in town, i have stretched it out to 260kms each tank.

Im taking off better from stopped, not reving it so much to make sure im not going to stall it. Im timing the light changes with my speed so i stop less. All these things come into play when it comes to how many kms u get.

my 2cents.