It's all about suspension

Discussion in 'FZR250.com - Archives' started by Biggirds, Nov 18, 2005.

  1. Biggirds

    Biggirds New Member

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    Hey guys,

    I would appreciate some help with suspension settings on the FZR250 and I don't really know how to do it or what the effects are going to be.

    Maybe someone could make a post on How to change the suspension settings and for what accasion.

    I think that this would be invaluable information for a newbie like myself that would like to get the most out of the fizzer as I now become a better ridder.

    Thanks guys. <!-- s:D --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s:D -->
     
  2. chiangstar

    chiangstar New Member

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    umm... there isnt a lot you can easily change on a stock FZR to my understanding... just the spring preload on the rear...

    and all that does is compress the spring a little so that there is less travel in it when you go over bumps... given two identical corners, a stiffer rear generally means that the rear will slide out before the front ... generally...

    thats my understanding anyway...

    cheers

    simon

    ps... of course you can get your front fork springs changed also... but thats not exactly "easy" ie. not as easy as having front preload adjusters
     
  3. TBone

    TBone New Member

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    There is a whole science on how to set up the suspention... I can tell you that the front in stock form (even after a rebuild) is as soft as fresh poo...

    If some one wants to get their forks serviced (new oil seal and oil) I'm also willing to play around with adding some preload and perhaps thicker oil or even closing up the valves a bit... I would like to "play around"

    I know the standard setup for the CBR250 is 10w with no preload but some of my friends say the ultimate setup is a 7w with 20c wirth of preload...
     
  4. Patske

    Patske New Member

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    play with your rear pre-load.
    It affects the performance of the front suspension because of the way it makes you sit on the bike.

    FZR's have a setting from 1-7 on the rear pre-load. 7 being the softest and 1 being the hardest.
    Hard rear means your front won't slip out as easy if you feel it's a little uneasy but will effect rear grip. Soft rear means more grip but less front pressure and the bike will dip in too quickly and too nervously.
    I went to the track with my C-Spanner and just tried them all out.

    I found that for my height/weight 5'11'' 68kg setting 4/5 was good for me.

    pre load is exactly wat it sounds like. It adjusts the amount of compression on the spring Prior to you actually sitting on the bike.
    There is a formula where you are supposed to measure sag when you sit on the bike and adjust preload accordingly but I think since not much can be done with the front just tinkering with it is sufficient.
     
  5. Casso

    Casso New Member

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    Are you sure you got that right, patske?

    On my bike 1 is soft and 7 is hard.
    Ie. on setting 1, the spring is at its least compressed.
    on setting 7 the spring is at its most compressed (well, speaking in terms of pre-load, anyway).


    On setting 7 I find the bike is very nimble and falls into corners very easily. On setting 1 I find that the bike is a little sluggish in cornering, but a lot more stable and easier to ride.

    iirc ciaran was saying he felt the same thing (we both have it set on 7 - hardest).

    Anyway, on the rear shock, just under the spring, you will see seven notches (marked 1 through 7). You can change the settings using the 'shock-adjusting-tool-thingy' (it looks like a C, with a handle comming off it, and has a lump on the end that will fit into the notches on the shock).
    Alternatively you can use a screw driver and a hammer.

    I'm thinking that sometime in the next few months i might put cartridge emulators in my forks (see <!-- w --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.racetech.com">www.racetech.com</a><!-- w -->)... but I'm still weighing up wether or not it will be worth the cost.
     
  6. chiangstar

    chiangstar New Member

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    im almost certain 7 is the hardest... it certainly feels harder

    simon
     
  7. Ciaran

    Ciaran New Member

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    Got this from the 2kr workshop manual. I am guessing S is for soft and H for hard.

    [​IMG]

    That race tech stuff look pretty serious for the old fizzer. I was wondering how much that guy we met at the track would charge to get it set up properly. I guess if you where real keen you could swap over the forks for some USD ones off the latter TZR250's, not sure if they have preload.
     
  8. ACE

    ACE Active Member

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    Do the usd's of the TZR fit the FZR what about the springs are thay heavy enough and if thay fit and eneyone find's some let me now thanks.
     
  9. Ciaran

    Ciaran New Member

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    If they did fit you would have to get them re-sprung, valves changed and all that stuff. I did say you would have to be keen, all bike mods like this can take allot out of a person and their wallet. The early TZR's had forks that look a hell of allot like that standard FZR ones. Saying that you would have to change over the forks, yoke, mudguard, could even need brake calipers and disks and I am sure more stuff I can’t think of just now.

    Old TZR.
    http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/037697/
    Newer TZR.
    http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/033510/

    I have never seen it done but if someone pulled it off it would be sweet. Oh and I was looking around and it seemed to say that the TZR USD forks have preload adjusters.

    I think for now I need to stop daydreaming and mark it up on my list of things to do when I will the lotto. <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: -->
     
  10. Patske

    Patske New Member

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    you could be right guys I just tested them out on the road and track and felt 7 to be alot more bottoming out for me.

    I know how it feels for me only so I could have just stuffed it up. Anyway in the end my advice still sticks... play around with it
     

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