Ok I have now got my bike fully road legal, insured taxed everything basically. Though now having pulled a ligament bundle in my right ankle makes it hard to brake <!-- s:???: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_confused.gif" alt=":???:" title="Confused" /><!-- s:???: --> Anyway managed to get out on Saturday went to the petrol station etc looking very proud - then decided to go for a nice run out for a bike shop about 10 miles away. Half way there on a fast right hand sweeper the back end starts to feel unstable, very loose and like its going to let go. Managed to get it round the corner slowing gradually down from 80mph and pulled into a layby. I had the flatest of rear tyres ever!! And the weird thing is there are no nails or signs of damage to the tyre - could it be the valve i wonder?? I had to get a lift home to pick up my car and trailer to collect the bike etc. What a pain in the arse, but was quite impressed with the bike so far so all is not lost. Still confused why the tyre went down, because i pumped it up again when i got home and its stayed inflated <!-- s:-? --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_Eyecrazy.gif" alt=":-?" title="Eye Crazy" /><!-- s:-? --> whats peoples thoughts??
Let me say well done for staying out of trouble in a potentially hazardous situation! It is also possible for punctures to temporarily reseal themselves, and that is the only idea I can think of. But to make a tire go completely flat quite quickly it would have to be quite a substantial puncture, and one that would easily be noticable from the outside... Perhaps there is something to do with the tire when it warms up? Grabbing at straws...
Maybe your tire wasn't inflated properly. A similar thing happened to me with my tubless scooter tire. I inflated it and then riding good then boom I had a flat. So i got some lubricant and lubed the tire and the wall of the rim and it worked fine after that.
Clutch Ok I have now sorted the rear tyre, by inflating it to 60 psi and letting it back down again to make sure its seated properly, changing the schrader valve and also putting a valve cap on...... Now my next problem is that the clutch slips when i accelerate suddenly which forces me to let of the throttle till the clutch catches up to then accelerate not quite as fast. I have adjusted the lever / cable so there is some free play in the lever at rest etc but still no joy..... Has anyone replaced the clutch? is it the same as the FZR400?? I took a pillion on my FZR at the weekend as well, she loved it!! tho i wasnt going too fast, only managed to get up to 90mph..... hehe. I am definately enjoying being back on a bike!
Hehe bastard!! i wanan ride 2... damn painter takin his time. Clutch slipping.. i have that issue 2..my clutch is about to go.. mechanic rekons another 5000kms.. though im quite sure there are a few things u can check out b4 determing its the clutch.. one of the techy guys can u help u.. for me i just sent it to my mechanic for that one.
clutch..... I do have another question i forgot to ask as well, could it be i have the wrong oil which is causing the clutch to be a gitt?? I know from past experience that the wrong oil can cause the clutch on a motorbike to slip as the clutches run in the oil, so that could be half the problem. I shall strip my spare engine down some time and see how the whole clutch mechanism works, as that clutch is stuck anyway. I wish i could afford to hand it over to a machanic, I shall just have to ride a bit more gently than i want to.... keep it below 14,000 and not try and race my dad's Triumph Tiger 900 cc triple off the line,...... <!-- s:roll: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_roll.gif" alt=":roll:" title="Rolling LoL" /><!-- s:roll: -->
If you want to see how the clutch mechanism works you can look at: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/sequential-gearbox.htm There is an image on the second page of the ratcheting drum. I have been led to beleive that 'slipping of the clutch' and false neutrals are usually caused by this. Someone correct me if I am wrong as I only know what I have read, and have no actual hands on experience. False neutrals are simply inherent in the design of this - there are points that will simply stop in places where gears are not fully in place. Why can't they design the perfect one? Well they can, but it also depends upon oil viscosity (which also depends on temperature), and power of the bike. Therefore it is never perfect, and some manufacturers bikes have better clutches than others. Slipping of the clutch is caused when the grooves start to wear, and therefore the the pin that follows the grooves doesn't stay in the same place. Again oil viscosity has a role in this, but it is also wear on the clutch. Wear can be increased by bad shifts, so it is important to try and shift smoothly - keeping the revs at the right level etc. Someone on the across forums had his clutch seize on him (a kawasaki zxr600 or something). As a result he was stuck in 2nd until he could afford a replacement which I think was around $500 or so installed.
Clutch replacement links: http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/clutch/ (a cruiser, but same rules apply) http://www.dansmc.com/clutches.htm http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/clutches.htm
hmm thoughts Ok i have now done around 300+ km's on my bike and have to say i am pretty impressed, though now the tinkering is going to start to make sure its all 100% The clutch i am going to replace, new plates, springs etc - just need to find the parts. Also will check before i replace it that the oil is the correct viscosity etc. I will be very pissed off it is the oil that has pissed on my chips......!! found some parts on ebay that look not too bad condition, set of carbs, exhaut with no baffles etc. Am definately bidding on the zorst <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt="" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s --> anyways yeah its all good tho i do have to say it doesnt seem to like bumps very much!! very nervous and twitchy.
clutch Light bikes dont like bumps at all, RGVs can tank slap doing 50km/h if they hit a bump hahahaha, than again could be your suspension. With the clutch Boz is right, remember that FZRs have "wet clutch type" and the oil is the same as what the engine uses to protect that. If you are running ther correct engine oil then it shouldnt be a problem. I would say its just time to replace the clutch, when you replace the clutch and springs replace the springs with a heavy duty type. this will hold the clutch to the pressure plate with more strength. Its a good idea so every bikie tells me!!!!. I would read into it to much, as slipping clutch means time to get new one. Jarmizz
I was just visiting the exupbrotherhood site (where this site originated from essentially) and there is a guy on there now who races his fzr 250. He gave some advice on sticking clutches: http://b7.ezboard.com/fexupbrotherhoodfrm27.showMessage?topicID=9.topic
lol Haha Gezz how long ago did I post that up there. Come to think of it, it was prob when I first started riding hahaha <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_redface.gif" alt="" title="Embarassed" /><!-- s -->
clutch I guess my only option then is to take the clutch cover off and have a look inside, just didnt fancy taking her all apart again!! A question coming from this tho is that when i remove the left hand side cover which holds all the oil in (drain b4 taking off) surely the gasket will bugger up! meaning i will need to source a gasket, which could be a bit tricky and expensive. hmmm that is if there is a gasket on there, but i am almost 100% sure there should be. i shall definately strip my 2nd engine first tho as this clutch is stuck properly, ie wont even go into gear at the moment. got a new zorst on the way i hope, ebay £10 <!-- s:alcoholic: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_all_coholic.gif" alt=":alcoholic:" title="Alcoholic" /><!-- s:alcoholic: -->
