Hi guys As many of you may know I have recently rebuilt my first set of carbs using the excellent litetek seal kit. One thing I did not realise was as I had my carbs completely apart after putting them back together I had changed the sync of the butterflies. I'm a rookie I know! So for those of you who do change your carby seals in the future following is a Howto sync the carbs whilst they are not on your bike. Please be aware this method isn't perfect but does put them back to the factory setting. It also gives your mechanic a benchmark and will make it easier for them to perfectly balance your bikes carbies. Firstly lay your carbs down as below The aim is to adjust the butterflies to open in unison, personally the method I used was my eye and the 5 little centre holes below So with the butterflies closed turn your idle screw to set the benchmark carb ( far right) I did it so the butterfly splits the top hole in half and I can't see the lower hole Next step is to turn the screw that controls the adjacent carb Use these 3 screws which control the butterfly to the left of each Beware to snap open the throttle linkage after you think you have set each butterfly perfectly to check it is still the same! Good luck and happy spannering!
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my bike is tuned to E I synchronised my carburetors to E, that is, using an E string off a steel string guitar, its used as a 0.1 mm feeler gauge between the butterfly plate and the carburetor bore where the 5 holes are in the picture above, and far more accurate than the human eye... Also, you should set them all from no 3 carburetor, as that's the one the idle is set off and the throttle cable pulls on, and 0.1 mm will still be way above the factory 1600 rpm setting, so once they are all open at 0.1 mm wind the idle screw right back till it isn't touching the throttle linkage, then wind it in till it just touches, then another 1/2 a turn in. set no 3 carburetor with your ad-lib feeler gauge by the idle screw till you can feel the butterfly plate lightly dragging when the gauge is moved up and down the carburetor bore, then set carburetor 2 to the same drag, then set carburetors 1 and 4 the same. A fraction of a turn on the adjusting screws either way and it will be too tight to move the gauge or too loose, it's a delicate touch required. before synchronising with a manometer or vacuum gauges, valve clearances and spark plug gaps (or new spark plugs) must be set, I would also rough set the mixture screws at the factory 2 turns out, as all these items will affect the fuel burn and vacuum drawn through the carburetor. I would also suggest adjusting the eXup valve if your bike runs one prior to synchronising