If you have or are thinking of getting a new Hyosung, think about addressing these little things and be rewarded with a reliable fun machine. IMO Hyos are great bikes at an affordable price that have sound design but unfortunately, assembly and dealer prep is letting them down. Having had a Hyosung and many friends with Hyos I have come across a number of annoying issues that are easily rectified if addressed early on that are common across most of the bikes. They are as follows Stator What goes wrong? Casing bolts behind the Stator work loose rubbing on the inside of the stator eventually causing electrical variations and failure How do i fiX? Take off the stator cover, remove the stator and use some permanent locking compound on these bolts you can now see and torq em up. Rear Master Cylinder What goes wrong? The push rod is not lubricated from the factory and is susceptible to corrosion and the boot holds moisture from rain or washing. The master can seize all together or lose its full range of motion causing the rear brake to grab, drag and heat. In turn, this will quickly destroy pads and ruin your rear rotor. How do I fix? Simply pull off the rubber boot and pack with some rubber grease that is brake system friendly. All brake callipers What goes wrong? The calliper slider pins are a bit of a hit and miss if they were lubricated at the factory or not. This causes them to bind in their slides and stop the calliper equally squeezing the rotor resulting in reduced braking power and uneven pad wear. How do I fix? Dismount the callipers front and rear and lubricate these pins using a high temperature compound designed for disc brakes. I use permatex. Whilst you have them apart put a little on the pad slide pins as they too have a tendency to bind to the pad. The 4 piston callipers on the efi models are much better then the earlier 2 piston and are a highly recommended upgrade. Frame What goes wrong? There are a number of areas prone to corrosion at weld points and contact points. Accelerated corrosion occurs where the spark coils mount to the frame eventually causing ignition issues and week erratic spark. How to fix? Remove the fairing seat and tank. Use of a long lasting rust preventive should do it. I normally use a lanolin based product but in this instance I actually purchased a similar enamel paint and painted the areas that have rusted on older machines I have seen. Axle What goes wrong? Poorly lubricated and in some cases not at all, making life very difficult to remove the wheels. How to fix? Pull em out and greese em up. Wiring What goes wrong? Water gets into connectors causing intermittent electrical issues or as a lot of Hyo owners have experienced being stick on the side of the road in the rain. How to fix? Find the connectors and use plenty of dielectric greese. While your at check you grounds as these can work loose and use a little thread locker Cables What goes wrong? They snap especially the clutch. How to fix? Lube em up as soon as you get it. The stock clutch cable is not a great cable. I have never had an issue with my last one as I have kept it well lubed but you could always invest in cable from one of the big 4s. I think it applies to all bikes so i have pinched it from another forum and posted it here. Thanks Ontherun I am spreading your word.
Nice bit of info there aj. There seems to be quite a few issues with them although i do agree that they are a great cheap commuter.
For what you can get them for used, I think they're a steal :laugh: Feel sorry for the poor bastard selling it though, I was in that position, I lost $2.5k on my Hyo, and it was used, I'd say that's it's only fault,resale just isn't there!
Hey AJ Funny thing happened today. Ran into an old friend who rides a hyosung 650, he pulled in to my mechanics place to get????? you got it, a new clutch cable.!! My thought went straight to your posting last night. Having said that he is having a great run with his bike, 52k on the clock. Phil
:laugh: Well speak of the devil! I bet he replaces them every 10 thou if he doesn't lube it regularly, not so bad anyway, only about $30, but scary when it snaps on the fly! The engine design is a straight rip-off of the sv650, however they use a different camshaft design, which is actually better, --> 82hp at the crank on the hyo; 79hp at the crank on the sv's. Another thing you must ask him if you see him again is how scored his rear disk is :laugh: it drags often, the pushrod just gets stuck straight away, because they lube everything with copper grease, which just isn't friendly to the pushrod!
The newer models get better. And im not just saying that because my 2010 is for sale ;D The engines are bulletproof. You gotta give them that. Its the rest of the stuff that's connected to the engine that was a problem. 07 -09 are buggy and have the annoying break downs like clutch cable. The 10'-12' models haven't been around long enough for a solid speculation of break downs but korider shows the 2010+ models to be pretty much cleaned of the annoying issues. I haven't had the slightest problem with her yet and I ride her everyday.
Update time....: I read in other forums that the spark-plug cover/plug on the earlier models was too thin, and could arc thru. They were modified/improved over time... Other "news" please?
