Your intake rubber boots are very cracked ..... check there is no open ones by bending them like this , otherwise they will suck in air.... new ones are hard to come by and expensive ...... u can use a bit of silicone to help seal the old ones The jets and the carbys should be blown out with compressed air ... the tiniest particle left behind can mess things up. Have a look at the markings on the needles and jets as they will all be numbered .... compare with the parts list to see what u have and if they are correct .... if u look at my thread u will see what a shambles they can be. On the 3LN1 the centre carbs are setup differently than the outside ones .... I presume the 3LN3 would be the same. This is the Mikuni symbol that will preclude the jet/needle number/size Look closely inside the jet housing as the main jet has an o ring that may be buried inside. Did u get a new seal kit ? Did all of the pilot jets have holes in the side like this one? Do u have a photo of this?
The intake rubbers have just surface cracks removed them and there still pretty good not cracked through anywhere all the o rings are still in good nick was expecting them to be like plastic but they where all still pretty soft and still had there elasticity even the float bowl rubbers the only ones that looked slightly perished where the main jet o rings but they were not that bad at all and yes all pilot jets had holes on the side of them which I presume is the way there meant to be also had a seal kit ordered but it ended up 14000 km away long story pics of the inline filter below
Interesting that .... didnt know about that one....its hard to even notice it on the parts diagram 56 - Part no. 1KT-14994-00 net,filter http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/yamaha-net-filter-1kt-14994-00-00-part.html Sort of thing lost easily by previous owners! Thanx for that
Got my clutch kit today and it has six friction discs like it should but one of the friction discs has less friction material then the rest and a smaller inner diameter but the same outer diameter? a quick web search states that one is indeed different but where in the stack does it fit? has anyone replaced one recently?
Here u go mate .....this should help u out ......sadly the images are no longer there. http://fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=1124&hilit=clutch+plates
got it sorted it fits in the stack in the second position ie there is six friction discs and the one that is different sits second in the stack towards the engine/flywheel and just be careful you don't tilt the bike of the stand because the ball bearing that sits in the centre of the flywheel can fall into the sump and if you cant get it with a magnet you will have to remove the sump!!!!
Drove the bike for the first time since doing the clutch and stripping and cleaning the carburettors and its going much better!!!! before cleaning the carbys I was having problems at low rpm slow speed stuff like stop start and in traffic with what can be only described as the bike cutting out and what seemed like the engine flooding and the only way to get it started again was to crank it over with no throttle for like thirty or forty seconds and it would gradually fire up again it was bloody annoying also if I didn't use a lot of revs pulling away from lights it would bog down and do the same but a high revs and when flat out it flew!!!! so didnt seem like a spark issue But now its perfect like a new bike pulls cleanly through the hole rev range
Got a chance to do a bit of work today on the fizer,it had the usual squeaky rear suspension so striped out the rear shock and the swing arm connected to the main swing arm and cleaned and re greased the needle bearings no more squeks
Excellent ..... Im sure u know already, but theres a couple of major needle bearings in the swingarm as well .... obviously a more major job but something to consider if the back wheel needs to come out etc Did u 'lubricate' the preload adjuster and run it thru the settings while the shock was out?
When the shock was out I checked for play in the main swing arm bearings and they were fine and the swing arm had a nice smooth feel so unless I have to I will leave them be, as you said big job! didn't touch the adjuster but probo should have when it was out
Got a gopro last week and looking back at the footage I think my bike may be geared to high ie less teeth on the rear sprocket in first gear indicted by the speedo 90kmh at redline 2nd 125 redline and third 150 redline closed road of course I must count the teeth on the sprockets tomorrow what are everyone else's fzr,s geared like?
Stock setup http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/my-1990-tech-21-fizzer.1544/#post-11870 My setup http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/my-1990-tech-21-fizzer.1544/#post-11883 But the question is how much lubrication is in there to keep them like that?
My old 2kr had a 55R & my 3ln had 56. Front on the 3ln was 17. Not sure on the 2krs front. I will need to check the 2kr to solve my issue of the new front sprocket not fitting properly on the 3ln. Should also say the number of the teeth on the sprocket itself. It's engraved on the outside of the sprocket. If your going new I went the standard 17f & 55 on the rear since a 56 wasn't available. According to the gearing calculator the 55 is around a 200rpm drop at 100ks
Well have been looking at Motards lately and I am going to take the plunge and buy a 06/07 crf450x and convert it or a dzr400. hopefully will get a good trade in on the fzr? going to have a look at a few at the weekend! unless somebody on here is interested in it? will miss the fizer am I mad
Depends on your age and amount of back problems. I recently bought a Honda NX650 Dominator because the roads around here are getting rougher and I need some thing lighter with good suspension. From what I can gather the CRF is more hard core racer, where the DRZ is more road friendly. Good luck with either.
the new super moto/motard !!!!! husky 450 smr absolute wheelie machine great fun but difficult to drive for more then an hour, mainly the seat trying interfere with you ha ha massive torque compared to the fizzer will pop the front up in 1st and second gear with no clutch but will run out of gear very fast the vibrations are epic hence the name thumpers you feel every power stroke great manoeuvrability at low speed but they get real wobbly at high speed they come standard with a 120 17 front tyre and a 150 17 rear liking it so far but they are hard core racing machines