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Project 3LN1 Restoration

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by camarda, Mar 22, 2020.

  1. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    @camarda Put an @ before the name and the person mentioned will get a notice
    My wife is packing all the orders for tomorrow's pick-up tonight. If you miss that one we probably won't do another until Thursday at the soonest.
    Express is all over the place at the moment too.
    Send us an email and I will give you the details.
    Cheers
    Blair
     
  2. camarda

    camarda Active Member

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    Thanks. Those are the ones I’m talking about yes, looks like a good business, just like yours. I’m considering their full kit with pistons so I can have peace of mind that my brakes are perfect but $400 is a stretch, I guess I’ll see what the guy with second hand pistons has and I’ll definitely get those seals.


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  3. camarda

    camarda Active Member

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    @maelstrom , ok I’ll order right now 1 second, if you can package my order tonight would be great thanks heaps.


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  4. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Order received and email sent.
    Cheers
    Blair
     
  5. camarda

    camarda Active Member

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    Hey [mention]maelstrom [/mention], sorry I only ordered kit A but I think I need the full kit, just sent an email.


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  6. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    I have used the UK piston and seal kits and found them to be good quality and perfect fit.
     
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  7. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Happy to guide you through working on the carbs, mostly it is cleaning and the replacement of the emulsion tube - keep the innards of all four separate as the centre two have either different needles or a spacer below the needle to shim it up higher

    The ultrasonic, if you get one is THE way to do carbs, trick is to remove all of the brass bits beforehand as otherwise it discolours the different metals.

    Obviously the small brass tube which goes on the outside from the upper diaphragm section to the lower front doesn't come off as it's the choke circuit.

    To remove built up grime and gunk you can use oven cleaner on the outsides before going into the ultrasonic - spray it on leave for a short period - 1 minute and then use a dish brush to scrub them - gloves and ventilation are a must

    Others can chime in here but I recall using a little bit, teaspoon if citric acid (a dash of vinegar will also do well) and just a bit of dishwashing liquid as it breaks the surface tension

    So you also do the brass jets etc separately also - @GreyImport @Linkin @my67xr - what have you guys used to get the brass looking good in an ultrasonic?
     
  8. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Use Threebond (Repco sell it) for all the brass bits... spray into a glass jar... and soak for a couple of hours.. maybe overnight depending on how bad they are. The rinse off with hot water and blow then out with compressed air.
    Hold all juts etc up to the light and make sure you can see through them.
    I tend to use a mix of Simple Green, water and some vinegar in my Ultrasonic.. the trick is to rinse everything off really well and then dry them... maybe use a hair dryer etc to get them warm and not allow any water to stay in there...

    Personally I wouldnt use Oven Cleaner as most of them are quite Caustic and isnt good for any sort of Aluminium... just my opinion though.
     
  9. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I thought the same, but it is down to the duration that it's on them - a minute then brush off under water as opposed to leaving them to soak

    It did a marvelous job with some pistons I had to get the compressed, baked on carbon out of the ring lands and off of the crown

    It's all down to the timing, it will darken the aluminium, which should then come bright again in the mild citric acid in the ultrasonic, which is what I also did with the pistons, just in heated water on the stove top
     
  10. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner, i just use the Threebond Super Engine conditioner leave it to soak for 5 min's then rinse and blow it off with compressed air, that's all the brass and the alloy part's.
    Anything stubborn i use a brass wire brush and Threebond, then rinse and dry.

    The Threebond is designed to remove old carbon/oil deposit's from piston's and combustion chamber's etc

    [​IMG]
     
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    Last edited: Mar 30, 2020
  11. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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  12. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Well-Known Member

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    Hey all the best for your bike restoration! I've been reading through and it's obvious there's plenty of advice from good people on here.
    Quick mention for @maelstrom may I ask, do you stock replacement EXUP valve cables for the 2kr fzr250?

    Sorry to hijack your thread just seems easier this way.

    Cheers
     
  13. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Nope. Try Venhill in the UK, they can do anything.
     
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  14. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Well-Known Member

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    Okay did come across them online.
    Got me thinking that maybe any universal cable kit will work though.
     
  15. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    I only recommend them because they make quality cables.
     
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  16. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Well-Known Member

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    While we're here, my clutch tends to slip at around 14k rpm. Is disc replacement a major or can I do it at home?
     
  17. camarda

    camarda Active Member

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    Should be able to do it yourself, there’s probably a thread in here somewhere but I assume it’s just like changing any clutch plates.


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  18. camarda

    camarda Active Member

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  19. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I have actually replaced an EXUP cable myself with one that I made up -

    I have these bookmarked on ebay for the cable ends - check the measurements though as it's from a long, long time ago
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/M4x10mm...nd-Coupling-Connector-Nuts-20pcs/351787213253
    They need to be centre drilled for the cable and a short grub screw tightened from each end

    And i managed to get good quality cable from ship chandlers distributors - there's two at the correct cable diameter, but one is too rigid because of the thicker strands
    I do recall trying push bike shops for brake cable - too inflexible, BUT, I'm not certain I checked gear derailleur cable now I think about it

    This is the cable that I still have a link to - it will work, but what I did find is the not all ship chandlers carry it. I was fortunate that when I rang the distributor the guy I spoke to lived nearby and he cut me a 2 meter piece

    https://binksmarine.com.au/store/ca.../stainless-steel-wire-rope/wire-ss-7x19-1-5mm

    All of that said, it's a lot of mucking around, especially when a kit is available from Venhill
     
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  20. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I am sure @GreyImport will chime in when he has done with Home Schooling.. with Disc calipers you really are better off using some specific Caliper High Temp paint... it will last longer. Brembo Stencils are easy to pick up on eBay... I have used them before.. Last time I painted a set of caliper bright red.. put on the Brembo stickers and then clear coated them.. you can get Caliper (Brake) clear coat.. just makes them easier to keep clean.
    Make sure you bake them to get the best and toughest finish on the paint.. (do that before you put in the seals)
     
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