FZR250 Questions and Looking for parts

Hi Guys,

I'm the happy new owner of an '90 FZR 250
Anyway I've got quite a few questions, some about where to source parts and others about which parts I actually need.

The bike had been stored for several years with the tank detached needing to be cleaned for rust. So I'll outline what I've done so far so we don't retrace ground I've already covered.
The carbs are off, working through cleaning them of the filth that was in the float bowls. I've already ordered the full A&B carb kit so carbs are sorted or will be soon.

I don't have the fuel filter attachment for the bottom of the tank. If anyone has one spare I'm interested. I also need a fuel tank cap. The original may yet surface but I'm not holding my breath.

There's no sign of a fuel pump and there doesn't look to be any wiring for one - was there ever one there originally? I've read conflicting information on this one. The fuel pump may well be in the same box as the other missing parts for all I know.

General Parts:

It had fallen off of the side stand and the right handlebar was bent. I've bent it back and it's 98% straight - the throttle works perfectly. These bars look to be two piece though getting the bar section off of the fork attachment may be difficult. I can get the right tube stock and rethread both the inner and outer ends. Has anyone got the two pieces apart?

I need a seat if anyone has one available - condition is irrelevant as I will re-upholster it if necessary.

Aftermarket blinkers - anyone fitted any. Both of the two front ones have been replaced at some stage so I figure I may as well get a full set of four that match.

I also need the middle sections that go front and back of the pillion seat for the rear fairing if anyone has them available

Good source for service parts:
Oil filter and air filter, chain & sprockets. I don't mind ordering from OS via ebay and such the wait for shipping doesn't bother me.

What tyres are getting good grip - Dunlop BT45's seem to be mentioned. A source for them in Sydney if possible or any other preferences as far as tyres go. I want Grip, wear comes second as I intend to stick this thing round corners like it was meant to be ridden.

Iridium plugs - are they worth the $$ for better performance at high revs?

Does anyone know the paint colour for the blue colour scheme? There's some chips in the paint on the tank which I'll address and do the scratches and scrapes on the fairings over time.
It will look pristine once I'm finished sprucing it back up.

That's pretty much it for now

peace out

Glenn
ruckusman
Newbie
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2013 7:38 pm

 

Thanks heaps Grey,
really good info and I didn't expect to find someone that know the paint colour - that's an extra special bonus.

You must have added that pump pic whilst I was replying first time - now I know what is missing from the retainer where the pump attaches in your pic - it had me puzzled.


Mine is blue, it's a 3LN built date '90 - first complianced in '98, though I will cross reference the serial numbers to see which 3LN1 or 3LN3

Unfortunately there isn't a local dealer to the Sydney Northern beaches any longer so I'll be ordering from slipstream, which is a good solution.

I did find fuel pump via ebay - from china but with Mitsubishi stamped on it so will likely go that route.

I also saw the seats on ebay, but $60 plus $20 to ship is a little steep IMO, but I may end up paying that in the end.

I've got a little time before the carb kits arrive so I'm in no rush, yet to do the valve shims, check compression, clean or replace plugs, flush brake fluid etc etc etc.

peace out

Glenn

 

Thanks for the info guys

I keep forgetting to cross reference my actual model number, it does start with 3ln and something I stumbed upon this evening confirms it's a 3ln1 the front brake fluid reservoir type.

Graham the fuel pump I'm considering is this one
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251027180015?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Though I might check local car parts suppliers as except for the pressure needed for EFI, any normally aspirated carbed car has a fuel pump so I may get lucky if I have the flow figures to go on.

I will be removing the engine to do the valve clearances and do some serious cleaning at the same time, so I'll take pics to clearly demonstrate the process

peace out

Glenn

 

That's pretty much a standard electric car fuel pump, which is why I might explore auto parts here - that way anyone looking to replace their pumps will have the cheapest option available.

As I work my way through anything else I'll also be finding good quality equivalents - thinking wheel bearings, maybe swingarm bearings or whatever else I encounter.

I remember being charged $5 for one bolt a very long time ago from a stealership, now I'm somewhat wiser...

 

See now that's clever thinking and you very likely got better quality than OEM or aftermarket.

BTW I stopped in at one local auto service parts place to today and got myself some gasket paper for re-doing gaskets - so far it'll be useful for the cam chain tensioner gasket and the sprocket cover gasket

Basically I'm damned if I'm going to spend time money and effort going to order these things.

Cutting gaskets is really easy for everything except head and base gaskets which are not usually just paper.

I've removed the engine to get clear access to do the valve adjustments, as I already had the exhaust and radiator removed it was only a handful more bolts.

I'll document that process

Also I've got serious carbon build-up on the exhaust headers so I'm concocting a technique to reduce some of that. Same goes for the exhaust ports, I'll see what I can conjure...

peace out

Glenn

 

These look like good option for fuel pumps
http://stores.ebay.com/alba-racing-...1&submit=Search&LH_TitleDesc=1&_sid=914656920

Just need to check the pressure and flow rates against the original specs

 

I've got a rust patina on the exahust headers, which is lessening with just the quick spray from the Inox Lanox MX-3 spray onto the header bolts, so if anyones got any corrosion or discolouration that they'd like to less or remove this is the best stuff - forget WD-40 also for loosening stuck or rusty fasteners - get this stuff

To lessen any rust discolouration you can spray with this, wait 5 - 10 minutes then use non abrasive pot scrubbers it works wonders

Bascially it's used as a rust & preventative spray on damn near anything - just thought I'd pass that tip along

 

The red top one is the stuff it's fantastic

Not sure it would be good for the pressure on a chain, not saying it wouldn't, just uncertain - it would keep any surface rust to a minimum.

BTW has anyone done the 520 chain conversion? I need a chain and sprockets - so just considering the swap

 

OK silly me I just read the can labels - the chain lube looks great - going to have to get some of that