I have a motor as i sent it to my brother so all good there. Got footpegs from chris now i just need airbox, doesn't matter if filter isn't in it i guess... what do you want for it @my67xr. I have parts i could send you back if you want
I ordered 250 bandit diaphragms from aliexpress, around $8 each. see how it goes. Based on @GreyImport 's research i believe he ordered a suzuki part that corresponds to the bandit. So I will try these: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Fre...520.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.65804c4deSVzYw
Good news, Chinese diaphragms fit not bad $30 ish for 4. See how they last I guess. These are sized for gj74a bandit.
Engine is in, cylinder head cleaned up and valves lapped. We bled the rear brake which had been dry for who knows how long and weren't getting anywhere, so I took off the banjo bolt and pushed my finger on and off as we pressed the brake and surprisingly it started getting suction. Put it back on and kept pumping and we finally got fluid at the caliper, it held pressure and seems OK which is good. Pistons are a bit stiff though, so we'll find a way to give those a bit of a clean up without having to start again. Mate brought in a CBR250R front fairing and some second hand tyres that are still OK - so we'll hack the fairing up and find a way to mount it, change the tyres at some stage. Also we are in the process of setting up an electrolytic cell to remove the rust from the tank, Woolworths has this washing soda which is sodium carbonate so I think this should work well. Still need an air box though, I'm sure it will run without it but will be lean. We are also missing one o-ring from the top of the carburetor just under the lid. We couldn't figure out what it did though it seems to be independent of the carburetor circuit.. all the slides lift the same even with one missing. @GreyImport maybe you know? the one in the top rim just next to the diaphragm? The font brakes will be fun but hopefully the master cylinder will hold pressure... not holding my breath though you never know.
If u look in the throat of the carb , theres a hole which leads to that top opening where that o ring goes ... then if u look inside the rim of the plastic cover theres another opening ... the specific purpose of that circuit I cant remember offhand (without researching the history, specs and workings of a BDST carb) but maybe @maelstrom knows instantly .... the o ring would obviously keep out any unwelcome air, water or passing debris
I thought it just let filtered air in above the diaphram when the slide opened? So i'm guessing without it there the slide may close quicker? But now i think about it if it's hooked up to a port that run's through to the bore then vacuum when the engine is running will suck the diaphram up and lift the slide, it'd rise more with more vacuum at higher rpm's
Without that o-ring the slides won't lift - the lower part of that circuit forms the fuel supply of the choke also
We blew into the ports and all the slides seem to lift the same... when you say it won't lift what do you mean? This is why we were a bit confused as to what it actually does. If anyone has a spare (even second hand) couple of these O rings I'd be keen, will pay postage etc. I've used all the ones out of my keyster and litetek kits. I am not keen on the gasket goop alternative but even better if they are not needed.
You cant be serious surely .... gasket goop and carbys in the same breath??? You asked about those o rings and u got advice from 4 very experienced members but u are still waiting for someone to say "nah just leave it out " ..... and worse still we are talking FZR carbs ... the hardest thing on the planet to get right Dont come on here wasting my time (and others) posting bullshit and ignoring the advice given
Are you having a bad day? I wanted to improve my understanding of what that circuit on the carburetor does - that's what I was asking for. I was not asking for advice on what decision to make and whether or not people approved of it. And I was most definitely not waiting for someone to say "leave it out" as not all advice is good advice. If that statement came with some logical technical reasoning as to why I could (as opposed to a "I've been building bikes in my backyard for 20 years and you should do this") then I would take it into consideration. Some people may come on here seeking answers, I come here seeking information. Information helps me to find my own answers.
So one of the guys was not so gentle with the carbies and snapped this bolt (16) so the block jet assembly (40) is now either useless or going to require a magical fix I am not sure we can do... Anyone got one lying around... don't need jets just the assembly. These are 3LN 6/7 carbies so not sure if the same as 3LN3/5....? Could send you a brand new keyster emulsion tube (3LN3/5) or something as a trade, still got lots of spare parts around. @my67xr haven't been back in a while but got the o-ring. Appreciate that mate, thanks. It will get us by.
Is that the brass screw on top of the jet housing? It threads into the emulsion tube. If the head has broken off it, the thread should come out by hand. A new screw done finger tight should suffice.