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Help Electrical Questions

Discussion in 'Tech Tips' started by Frankster, Jun 22, 2018.

  1. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Hi Team, I’m doing electrical at college this week and I’m encountering a couple of teachers who seem to be more car-orientated and I’m starting to question some of what they are telling me. I know a few on here are pretty gluey on the sparky side of things, so any feedback, advice or links to good (accurate) knowledge/reading material would be greatly appreciated. For the purpose of my questions and comments, lets use one of our 4-stroke 250/4 bikes as the sample machine…2 coils and 4 plugs.

    Question 1: I’m told the formula for calculating sparks per minute is F = Z * N/2 (F being the sparks per minute; Z the number of cylinders & N being the RPM). So, when my bike is doing 18,000RPM I calculate there are 600 sparks per second, which equates to a spark plug trying to fire every 1.2 seconds (two plugs in the wasted spark case). So given that, does that mean that at 18,000rpm the dwell period for each coil cannot be set any higher than 2.4 seconds?

    Question 2: One teacher was telling me you need 80-90amps to turn the starter motor and a bunch of other “facts”. I went over to a bike and showed him the 12V9Ah battery it had and asked him how exactly did that battery generate enough amps to do that. His answer was okay, but then I remembered our bikes have 30amp main fuses. I didn’t introduce that into the conversation as I was becoming confused and annoyed all at the same time. So, do our bikes really generate that much amperage to turn the starter motor?

    Question 3: The Stator/RegRec system… I was always under the impression (wrongly) that the power generated by this system just charged the battery and the batteries DC took care of all the needs of the bike. I now know (I think) that the Stator/RR system actually powers the bike while the engine is running and any leftover DC is then fed to the battery. Is that right? And, if so, what happens to the DC being created once the battery is fully charged?

    Question 4: The spark advance for our bikes is built into the TCI/CDI units (right?). Does anyone know how to reverse engineer these settings or find out when in the rev range the advancing occurs? If I go to a programmable CDI to replace my TCI I will need (I assume) to program in the advance to make the bike’s firing function properly before trying to change it for different power delivery etc. The curriculum has touched on mapping, but only as far as to say it's built into the control unit.

    I was going to PM these questions to certain people on this forum, but decided to make this a general post in case anyone else is interested. @GreyImport please move this to another forum if it's in the wrong spot.

    Cheers
     
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  2. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Hope you don't want a quick answer for these question's.
    I'll try and answer them over the next day or so

    Question 3,
    The excess charge from the regulator part of the reg/rect will just shunted to ground via an earth point, that's why they run hot.
    In the case of a Mosfet type reg/rect it just turn's off the excess power as it goes into the reg/rect when it reach's a certain level (usually around 14.5v depending on what reg/rect).
    Much better system as the stator also run's much cooler as well as the reg/rect.
     
  3. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Question 4:
    Many manufacturers have included the ignition curve map in their factory service manuals or sometimes in the race kit data to show the difference between the standard TCI and the SP version. Companies like Ignitech make generic programmable TCI units. Without being able to log horsepower, knock, throttle position and fuel-air ratio it is all a bit pointless to try and make your own high performance TCI, in my humble opinion. Having said that, I will use an Ignitech unit my FZR400 because I have thrown away the EXUP system and it may come in handy.
     
  4. Wozza

    Wozza Active Member

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    question2 ...the starter solenoid isnt always fused, the 30 amp main is to protect the battery from a short and is set higher than the max current draw than the sum total of all freds.......12V9Ah battery will produce 90 amps for 6min or 9 amps for an hour :)

    question 4....no idea if true,but Ive been told basically that the pickup is set fully advanced and the cdi unit delays the spark in relation to rpm..
     
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  5. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Thank you. I'll have to find the thread where you guys were discussing the Mosfet type R/R. Sounds like a good investment for all older bikes.
     
  6. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    I've had an Ignitech unit for the ZXR250 for a couple of months now. That's what I was referring to as "a programmable unit". Looking at the Ignitech software will make a bit more sense now than when I got it. I can't recall ever seeing an ignition curve for the ZXR250A engine. They run the 21119-1263 TCI box on the A engine and I don't know anyone who has a Service Manual for the ZXR250A. The only manual I've seen is for the ZXR250C. If anyone has a ignition curve map for the A engine, please post it.

    Thanks
     
  7. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Thanks Wozza. That Q4 response makes more sense. Not that it actually matters too much, but how would you know how much amperage is being used to turn the Starter Motor on any motor?
     
  8. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Your questioning a teacher!
    Watch out buddy, they will be after you. :lolsign:
     
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  9. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Use an amp meter. http://www.stuttgartperformanceengineering.com/inductiveammater.html
    The inductive type are dead easy to use, just sit them on the cable and you are done.
    I have always tested charging systems with an amp meter first. In fact I have rarely ever used a voltmeter for that purpose.
     
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  10. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Too true. They don't like it much. Especially if when can't answer your question...that's when they suggest you go to the campus Library and read a book! Some teachers actually fess up and say "they're not sure"...I prefer that to misinformation.
     
  11. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    That's a very good read Blair. Thanks for the link. I've started using an oscilloscope at college while testing spark/coils etc. I will have to get one as they seem like a necessary tool. At least the Ammeter is more affordable than an oscilloscope.
     
  12. Wozza

    Wozza Active Member

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    As above an amp meter or watt meter
    https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-180a-watt-meter-and-power-analyzer.html

    most DMM will handle moderate amps or you can get a clamp one for big amp loads
    https://hobbyking.com/en_us/vici-cm2056-digital-lcd-ac-dc-clamp-multi-meter.html

    You can also use ohms law if you have 2 of the 3 parameters, you can also read the label on the starter/motor :D
     
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  13. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Unless you have an expensive DC Clamp Multimeter, you'll need to make your own.
    A $50 DC Current clamp meter will do up to about 100A, when cranking the engine over the voltage and capacity of the Battery will drop, test it a second time and the Amp's will rise, could get up around 180A draw.
    It's pretty cheap to make one a basic 200A adapter that you can use with your multimeter, just get a 200A Shunt from Jaycar for $20, and use your own multimeter.
    https://www.jaycar.com.au/heavy-duty-current-shunt-200a-50mv/p/QP5417


    To test the amp's drawn from the starter motor,
    use a 200A Shunt wired in between your starter motor and the starter cable, mount the Shunt on a block of wood,
    Don't touch the shunt with your finger's hand's when there is current running through it.
    you measure the amperage on your multimeter with it set to 200 Ma (Milliamp's), then divide your reading by 10.

    If your measurement is say 200 like the pic below, divided by 10 give's you 20A current drawn by the starter.




    1 shunt.jpg
     
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    Last edited: Jun 22, 2018
  14. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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  15. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Look's like multimeter technology has increased a lot over the last few year's,
    something like @Murdo and @Wozza linked above would have been close to or over $200 5 year's ago
     
  16. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    If a teacher/lecturer can't explain something in term's most people can understand, then they don't understand it fully.
     
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  17. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    To be fair, I do ask a lot of questions and some of them can be painful. A couple of the teachers are absolute gold. When you ask them a question they articulate the answer(s) and check you've understood their explanation...beautiful. Some teachers you can ask "what's the time?" and they'll spend the next 40 minutes telling you how to make a clock; funny thing is, at the end of the explanation, I still don't know what the time is!
     
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  18. Wozza

    Wozza Active Member

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    Yeah you can pick up a lot of functions on DMM these days for little money..That said build quality a bit on the side of buyer beware..last one I brought had issues and I found bits of wire and solder floating around inside the case...
    The high end stuff is still expensive... Id love a few of the fluke units but don't have that sort of money laying around :D
     
  19. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Fluke have been bought out too, so 'buyer beware' is even more important.
     
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  20. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Just quickly...
    Question 3: the battery is a reservoir or ballast in the system, lets say after several attempts to start the engine have drained the battery, so voltage is low.
    Engine starts - voltage out of stator -> through reg/rect. at idle may not be sufficient to charge the battery very quickly.
    However as the engine speed increases voltage will increase and battery will charge at upper voltage level of reg/rect.
    The Ballast/reservoir functionality is that there is an AC ripple across the stator phases, they're high frequency ripples, however they are still there - they are a tiny ripple out of the reg/rect- the battery stabilises both those ripples, acting like a capacitor, it also stabilises the voltage range keeping it between the batteries actual charged level and the charging level as engine revs change and the reg/rect voltage out varies.

    So consider it like a bucket that the whole system draws it's electricity from keeping the voltage supply smooth and voltage range between acceptable levels.
     
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    Last edited: Jun 22, 2018
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