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Help Non bike brains trust questions

Discussion in 'The Pub' started by GreyImport, Feb 15, 2018.

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  1. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    I think Ill just not drive at night :cool:
     
    GreyImport, Feb 16, 2018
    #21
  2. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Well that won’t work as the switch is earthed so any power you apply the lights will come on.
    Looking at that drawing the earth from the switch (black wire) should go through the High beam switch on the negative side so the circuit is complete.
    But you should now have enough info to test it all and see what actually works.
    It will be interesting, I don’t mind being proven wrong
    As I said before “white mans magic”


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     
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    Andych, Feb 16, 2018
    #22
  3. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    What those FB guys are saying is for positive switching

    pos switching.png
     
    GreyImport, Feb 16, 2018
    #23
  4. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    When you get it sorted and working like it should, get onto facebook and tell them you were testing it all out last night after following their suggestion's when suddenly

    hqdefault.jpg

    Pic is from here btw

     
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    my67xr, Feb 17, 2018
    #24
  5. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Well only minimal success .... I connected both -ve wires to the -ve side of the inner high beam and both +ve to the battery .... they worked but were flickering and 1 working 1 not but my connections were pretty rough , just to test it ... both factory plugs were disconnected to the inner high beams as well

    But afer turning off the lights completely the switch was still active and the spot lights still switched on :headbang:

    I think the +ve from the switch needs to go to the +ve side of the low beam so it only powers when the lights are turned on ... ??

    I ripped out the old wiring for the old driving lights and as much as they worked , sometimes they didnt .... typical Dodgy Bros at work ... and rusted as well ... they wernt connected at any of the headlight plugs :idk: ... they had tapped into that black box external wiring which is the factory accessory/fuse box to use how you want , but from inside

    IMGP0595 (Small).JPG


    IMGP0593 (Small).JPG
     
    GreyImport, Feb 17, 2018
    #25
  6. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Makes sense to take the feed for the switch from the lights.. high beam only I assume so that you have the choice of them being on or off with high beam only...
     
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    Andych, Feb 17, 2018
    #26
  7. Wozza

    Wozza Active Member

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    I think you are all over thinking this :) if it is neg switched all you have to do is wire the spots up normally..then run the relays power wire up under the dash with a switch in line, find the wire at the light switch or highbeam flasher that has 12+v when HB on and 0 volts when HB off with a multi meter(or find the highbeam relay in the engine bay and slice of that)....simpals
     
    Wozza, Feb 17, 2018
    #27
  8. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    I dont overthink electricals ... I just try not to think about them at all :D
     
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    GreyImport, Feb 17, 2018
    #28
  9. Wozza

    Wozza Active Member

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    Lol love the challenge...I tend to convert electrickty into plumbing, for some idiotic reason that works for me ;)
    I've got a XS 650 bobber project (not mine) here that has to have a complete wiring harness done, upside its running a magneto so no ignition stuff to do. Apart from the alt wiring there isn't another single wire so it should be fun :)
     
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    Wozza, Feb 17, 2018
    #29
  10. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Hmm well i don't know if I'll confuse the issue or not but...

    The high beam will just be a 2 or 3 way switch, right? It will either have an active/earth or active/earth/constant right? It shouldn't matter whether it's negatively switched or not, because wouldn't that just reverse the bias on the way you connect your circuit to it?

    When you turn the high beams on you need to find the wire which has power and the one which doesn't (ie earth). Then connect your wires at point (2) accordingly. If you've got everything else hooked up, surely it would work? The switch that comes with your circuit is just open/close and I assume the switch on the high beam will operate the same way just without the button.

    In terms of having your lamps come on auto with the high beams, it's actually illegal in NSW (dunno about QLD). On my old Rodeo one of my RW inspectors was painfully clear about that.

    Dunno if it helps or not.
     
    Joker, Feb 17, 2018
    #30
  11. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Problem is that if you wire the switch from the driving lights to both sides of the High Beam switch and then turn the DL switch on.. the high beam switch will be eliminated as you are completing the circuit through the DL switch.
    That is why I suggested that the earth from the DL switch or even the red wire is connected into the Negative side of the High beam (switched side). That way you dont get a completed circuit (as long as the DL switch is on) until you trigger High Beam.
    In the end... it is only switching for the relay, so you should be able to rig it up easy enough to test it.

    I am not up on the laws these days regarding Driving lights.. its not too bad if you know the guy doing your yearly inspection and you definitely need to have a seperate switch to isolate them from the High Beam.
    As it is currently they dont work so no problems with rego :)
     
    Andych, Feb 17, 2018
    #31
  12. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    In NSW they have to be only triggered by the high beam and have to have an independent on/off
     
    GreyImport, Feb 17, 2018
    #32
  13. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    I see the light! ... well some anyway ... left one is flickering so ill have to swap it around to see if its the plug or the light :commando: .. plugs at the lights are pretty flimsy

    IMGP0596 (Small).JPG
     
    GreyImport, Feb 17, 2018
    #33
  14. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    • Like Like x 2
    GreyImport, Feb 17, 2018
    #34
  15. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    What temp globe's are you running in your Hid's ?
    Look like they're 6000K or 8000K, they'll be good for summer but in winter you really need 4300K's they're a bit more yellow and show up wet road's a lot better

    These look the same but i'm pretty sure the headlight end is ceramic,
    i replaced my H4 socket's on my Ford Territory and the FZR with the ceramic headlight socket's, they're much better with heat

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Piggy-B...013230&hash=item1c9769724f:g:xFkAAOSwQS1aA7Rx

    s-l500.jpg
     
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    my67xr, Feb 17, 2018
    #35
  16. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    "Featuring high performance H3 6000k ultra bright Xenon Bulb"

    I might go one of those adapters :thumb_ups:
     
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    GreyImport, Feb 17, 2018
    #36
  17. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    @my67xr whats the correct adapter? H7? ... I have 3 pins but obviously 1 is a dummy

    IMGP0601 (Small).JPG

    IMGP0608 (Small).JPG
     
    GreyImport, Feb 18, 2018
    #37
  18. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    The extra horizontal pin at the top of the globe should just slide next to the socket
    Has someone changed the inner high beam light's and globe's to H4 (high/low) or do they just have a dummy pin there?

    h7-difference-new.jpg
     
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    Last edited: Feb 18, 2018
    my67xr, Feb 18, 2018
    #38
  19. ShaneP

    ShaneP Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like it is not negative switching, but constant earth with the relay on the positive side, like @my67xr had in his drawing. The confusion may have been that the ECU is negative switching. This is done in some Toyota's (if not all cars) as it will prevent overloading the ECU if there is a short. So I suggest you wire it normal: positive to before the bulb, negative to the body/battery. If you want to splice it under the dash, then you might find it is negative switching on the relay and have to wire the negative to wire between the relay and the headlight switches. But since you're in that neighbourhood, the bulb will do. But to save every confusion: put the red wire on the positive side of the bulb highbeam, the black on the negative, and it'll work every time on any arrangement.
     
    ShaneP, Feb 19, 2018
    #39
  20. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Yea I had the + from the switch to the battery + but moved it to + side of the bulb and all working now

    Just need to figure out the best piggy back adapter at the globe to have a better and less bodgy connection there
     
    GreyImport, Feb 19, 2018
    #40
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