Retrimmed the pillion seat today . Came out great! Just have to get the trimmer at dad's work to retrim the strap . No way my sewing machine has enough power for that Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
Well I finally mustered the courage to pull the bottom end apart and found this .... Ahh man new bearings time . Everything else looks brand new except them . Pistons have little to no scoring on the skirts and no wear where the gudgeon pin live. Bores look barely worn. Crank is perfect from a visual inspection . Conrod little ends have no wear aswell. Oil pump looks new inside aswell. Gearbox looks perfect aswell . Mind you this engine has 56k kms on it . Also something to stay away from is Ali express valves . Tried them in the head and they're loose in the guides wtf? . Originals are worn and even they aren't sloppy so I'll live with the small groove they have and re use them. Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
Yeah that main is a bit crappy. Can you do me a favour and check the oil pump drive shaft for play - it's behind the clutch basket. My C model had a lot of play in the shaft before it engaged. A hypothesis I discussed with a teacher at TAFE is that the shaft may have a 'U' in it to join the water pump shaft. If one side of it was broken, then the shaft would still engage but it would be loose... and that may be the rattle I was never able to solve.
A U being a slot in the shaft where a pin slips in and the gear slides onto it then held on with a circlip? Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
No that part was OK. If the whole shaft is solid then the hypothesis is impossible. But if the water pump has its own dedicated shaft, and is driven by the oil pump shaft, there would be some form of mechanical linkage, ie a slot cut in one end and a protrusion from the other. If you have time, pull the oil pump / water pump apart and take some pics for me. Thanks.
Ahh right . Nah the whole shaft is 1 piece and the water pump impeller threads onto the end of it . BUT the oil pump rotor is held onto the shaft with a pin aswell. Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
That looks a little like lugging might be the cause. I think get your new ones coated. https://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/m...b-2-1114-engine-bearing-failures-brochure.pdf @GreyImport might be good to put this Mahle guide in the resources section Mr Grey
Makes alot of sense looking at the wear on the rest of the engine. Didnt know you can get the new ones coated? . Hopefully I can find some new genuine in the correct size Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
Impex might be the go. https://en.impex-jp.com/catalogs/mo...ne-white-ck-japan-6217/crankshaft-362025.html
Done a bit more on the bike . All the gauges were cleaned and put back together . I made a new foam dampener. Headlights are also back on . Also changed my switchblock to one that hasn't has the headlight switch snapped off . Got the last bolts re plated. Rear shock all reassembled. Probably should've replaced it but it's not leaking so it'll do for now All the chrome was redone aswell. Bought a completely new brake lever to replace my B model one . Bought a new clutch lever aswell . Funny thing is they don't give you the the adjustment part Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
I was just looking over this thread (the most recent 2 pages), all this beautiful work, as-new all over the place. And then that tank came up! . I guess that shows how much work you've done from where it started. Well done! It reminds me of what is required to do such work properly.
Thanks dude . It was a pretty run into the ground basket case when I got it . Just thankful that it was mostly complete and wasn't bodged up too badly or in a bad accident . Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
