Oil always is the greatest debate.... Apparently it doesn't screw with the wet clutch or shear as fast at motorcycle specific oil. But if your engine has big carbon deposits that are blocking where a leak may occur that will be a leak after as it cleans the engine more.
The important thing in all the oil threads is how often you change it. Leave it too long and the additives will wear out and contamination will gum up the engine internals. Change too often and you will be wasting money throwing good oil out. Bit of a catch 22 situation.
Random find after seeing penrite in an autobahn catalogue. Picture 2 is part of the description Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
After reading as much as my brain could process,i went out and bought 1 Ltr of dello 400. Yesterday i drained the oil in the suzuki-125 quad bike and replaced filter.the quad all-ways gums up the plug (old bike and worn rings-burns oil) so before i strip it down i will run the dello through the system a couple of times and see what happens,cant do any more harm than the current state of the bike ill do a compression test first (this quad is a pull-start) do a few hours in it,change oil and a few more runs-drain the oil and filter to inspect for any and hopefully lots of internal gunk that the dello oil should shift-do a final compression test before i pull down the engine for a re-build recording all data on pen and paper and of course lots of pictures.Our quad bike gets used on our 6 acre hobby farm so its a tool not a toy,used all the time...Ken
Just dredging up an old and controversial thread - given that the fizzer can run on 10w-30 I was thinking what's out there in the diesel range in this weight, using heavier weight oil is just taking a little bit of power away from our little engines TA DA EDIT - because it seems that site restructure make the product link go nowhere https://caltexlubricants.com.au/delo/product/?cx=3421 Now this oil is API SN, hmm there's the question of friction modifiers causing problems with the wet clutch, where does API SN come in on this At the bottom of the page read about the different API specs and which ones to avoid https://totachi.com/news/api-rating-system-for-motorcycle-oils/ IMPORTANT TO NOTE! API recommends following the Original Equipment Manufacturer’s (OEMs) oil recommendations on your owner’s manual. Typically, an API SJ through SM engine oil would include some friction modifier. Do not use unless an API SJ, SL or SM rating is specifically called for by your motorcycle manufacturer! FWIW - I plan on running this in my fizzer once it's rebuilt if I can find some and it's not too expensive
