Thanks to Risky for checking out this bike in person for me. Ended up choosing it over a VTR250 because of feedback from @Grasshopper who test rode one for me, and on price factor. The previous owner got his fulls and is upgrading. It's a 99 built C model (Malaysian), 2003 imported. Had an engine change but still a C model engine. VIN ends in 1972, engine number ends in 1935. Changed the oil (Delo 400 of course) today and it wasn't too bad, but couldn't do the filter as it was on too tight to remove by hand. Strangely for a grey import bike, I have a stack of service history/invoices, receipts & rego/transfer receipts from vicroads. It's nice to know at least some history of the bike. Runs fine but sounds a bit rattly at idle... think the timing chain might be on the way out. It has a flat spot at 7,000 rpm when on the move (I'm sure someone will jump in and tell me exactly what's causing that). Last service was 9 months ago according to seller. Do not know actual condition condition of air filter, vacuum lines, carbies, plugs, etc. The plastic air tubes are perishing and will need replacing. Carbs will go green and get a service. Needs all the cables lubed and a general clean up. It will all get done in good time. For now it gets me to my new job at Procycles Everyone's favourite bit, bike pics! Starting with the gumtree ad ones. After getting into Hornsby from Newcastle, for fuel and to check the air in the tyres. New underground car park... unfortunately it's shared (apartment block) so no shenanigans pulling bikes half to bits. Looks good huh? Well, let's look a bit closer... Lots of the marks don't show up thanks to my wonderful iphone camera... but you get the idea... And I think the old owner is a definite contender for the dirty wheel club!
looks good mate how did it perform compared to the Fizzballs? Not sure if the later ones are any different but dont forget to check the RR plug and the cooling breather t piece
Yeah I'll have to check the R/R and the plug... also I lack a multimeter at the moment. Had the left fairing off for attempting to do the oil filter, no leaks from that coolant pipe. As for performance... suspension is way better. USD forks are nice (and adjustable). It tips in fast and you can change direction on a dime... think the 18" rear might have something to do with it. Old mate said it's a 44HP model but I doubt it... as we know, past 1993 all Jap 250's were restricted to 32KW. Poking through the paperwork I have I found 32.5KW listed on the vicroads stuff. You can feel it's not quite as powerful as a 45HP fizzer.
The 7000 rpm hesitation is usually a carb air leak , there are plastic tubes joining the carbs and the o rings go on them, at least You know where to get a kit
the ducts are available on Jauce , there are 2 diff part numbers, this is for the RH side only http://www.jauce.com/auction/r175450927
Depending on how rusty the lines are I would suggest a coolant flush, Only because mine looked like the pictures above and when I did the flush there was a lot of crap floating around the system.. You should have come to the dark side and brought a MC22 lol.. then we can chant "one of us, ones of us, one of us"
Nice work @Linkin good to see another ZXR,the malaysian silver models came out at 39HP, the motor starts getting excited about 7000rpm, like @kiffsta mentioned hesitation at that rpm Is usually carb air leak. I would recommend taking off the rocker cover & checking the cam chain if it sounds rough, theres a small timing inspection plug on the clutch cover, you wont even need to drain the oil if its on the sidestand, the cam chain will still feel tight if its worn except for one spot on the loop, check the rocker cover for rubbing from the chain,although I havnt seen a cover yet without some abrasion from the chain, I ended up using some permanent marker to see if the chain was rubbing, it could just be the tensioner also, I replace mine now every year because they go out of spec so easily.
Hey Linkin Here are the seals that usually go, part number 92055a, they are NLA from Kawasaki, but @maelstrom sells them. Also check the top diaphragms are properly set in the carb housing and the you have seals between the airbox and the carbs Kiff
Thanks everyone, I have a few Q's in my head after poking around the bike a bit. Left fairing has a rubber tube hanging off it on the inside that joins up somewhere (airbox?) - just an air intake or what? Aftermarket exhausts - TYGA seems to be the only available option at $200USD which is a bit pricey, what else is there? Fuel consumption - I seem to be getting about 6L/1000KM, which seems a bit high, what's considered normal? Also the rattle disappears at about 3,000RPM or when the clutch grabs/you're moving slowly... I have video but I'm not on my own computer at the moment and can't get it on youtube... all in good time.
6L/100KM* Oh and I put a small bottle of carby/injector cleaner in the tank from supercheap, seems to be starting better and have not noticed any flat spots now... still has a hanging idle
6l/1000km is very impressive. :-D 6l/100km seems thirsty. Check your spark plugs, if they are black and sooty, then it is definitely rich. Float levels, jets, slider springs, air filter and idle mixture screw should be checked. A good starting point is checking the oil to see if fuel has been leaking and running into the bottom of the engine. If the sprockets are worn, the chain will wear quickly to fit, like with drive chains, right?
That left fairing piece is the RAM air that I have been scouting around for, megazip have them, it pushes air through the fairing scoop into the airbox. Fuel wise I get around 18-22klm per litre town riding thats good that the flat spots gone sounds more like the carbs just need a clean, hanging idle means its most probably lean but your using fuel, sometimes people will turn out the pilot screws to compensate for a blockage, will be interesting to hear the rattling sound when you post it, maybe just the clutcbox
the cams dont really wear that quick like alloy drivetrain sprockets, the lobes on the camshafts do wear out eventually though
Shouldn't get any appreciable wear if the oil/filter are changed regularly... and yes alloy drive sprockets don't last. The ram air pipe that connects to airbox on mine isn't a good fit, seems to move around a lot.
Does it look like this one on ebay if not its most probably off a zx7 Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/162376668292
Yeah that's the tube. Had a closer look now and fixed it up. Had popped out of the fairing. Got the seat, tank & rear fairings off. Coolant ok, reg/rec plug ok, air filter ok (aftermarket unifter) but airbox gasket NOT ok... Sealed with silicon shite, wrong gasket (too skinny) and broken. A few leaves in bottom of airbox (unfiltered side). As for vacuum lines, the one from vacuum valve to airbox is too short and split on airbox side, the other line is short and not connected to anything apart from the valve. Did not get bottom of airbox off to check seals but throttlebodies look clean. Have pictures but am on my phone and fighting crap internet
I also need a airbox gasket, there reasonably priced but freight is a killer & Kawasaki would want about the same $$,its only round so it should be easy to just match up the diameter Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191891570650 The short vacuum hose is normal & doesnt connect up anywhere.