All right! After 1 year, 7 months, 13 days without posting in this topic I will resume the new/old Suzuki Across saga! Thanks for all help on this topic: http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/suzuki-across-carb-fitting.8290/ Anyone know the original size of the fuel line for the across 92? cheers!
I don't know the original size but I replaced my fuel line within the last month or so.. (95 across) will check in the morning and get back to you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sorry I'm a day late. I went out and checked the hose. I thought it had useful numbers on it. But just this From memory it's 5mm. But I'm not 100% sure. Sorry. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the photo! I checked the one installed in my bike and the model and I realise that the connection in the carburetor and the one in the fuel pump are different sizes! That's why I can't find fuel house that fits! Dumb mistake! So for now I will deal with the current fuel lines and I record this video to show the bike running. What's happen is that the bike won't hold the rpm for long. In the video I had to set to 3000 rpm otherwise the bike die AND, as well, after feel seconds running if I don't give twist the gas she will die. I guest Is due to the fact that all settings of the carb for poor/rich fuel/air is totally wrong because I don't have skills or tools to do it. So from now on or I learn how to do it myself or I'll have to call some mobile mechanic in Sydney to have a good check on it!
I'd bet more money on the carb jets needing a clean (pilot jet almost blocked) rather than fuel hoses being an issue.
If you search balance carbs Suzuki across on YouTube there's some good videos on how to balance the carbs with 2 plastic or glass water or oil bottles and some tubing (Bunnings, $6) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have also had issues with throttle cable not having enough free play and therefore revving higher or lower depending on the handle bars position. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A less sophisticated method is to use a very fine strand of copper wire say from a piece of speaker cable & use it as a feeler guage beneath the butterflys in the inlet tract to set all the clearances the same, its a good rough place to start. I've got balance guages & I don't bother with them any more, the feeler guage system is good enough & most times can't be improved. But, the carb butterfly adjustment will require a sequence from left to right or from centre & out, check a manual & find it out for your bike otherwise you'll chase your tail setting them. The down side is that the carbs have to come off the bike & onto the bench to do it. If you do get that far then when you start the bike the idle will be a bit high, just wind the idle set screw back to 1k rpm or so.
I've just had my '90 model back on the road after a weekend tending to the carbs and have used 5/16 injected hose all over and 8mm spring clips for all the barb connections. The bike now has a universal fuel filter (5/16 barb) positioned right before the pump inlet as well. This thing goes off it's absolute dial now! I had a complete blockage in the left hand cold start jet, two mains and a pilot were almost completely gunked up, both of the float valve meshes had some weird fabric growing on them, the idle screws had the clap, the choke valve holders were loose, the list goes on. My wife wasn't happy with my use of her ultrasonic cleaner, but that combined with sodium percarbonate, metho to remove any water from the clean pieces, a few cans of carby cleaner to blast out the galleries, and some high e guitar strings for the more troublesome jet deposits left me with some squeaky clean units. Throw in the complete Litetek seal kit; three extra throttle valve screws (Litetek only provide 5); rum; champion ruby 50gm; patience; the correct tools; some SBS Chill; by 3pm Sunday arvo I had a new bike that pulls like an altar boy, with more grunt than a sodomised bush pig!