Okay! I balanced the carbs again on sunday, and I reckon they were pretty spot on. Went for a blat to test it out and its still not 100%, more like 95% lol Symptoms- engine bogs down when revved from idle, this seems mostly go away when the bike was warm and had been running for a while, but still happens a tad. This morning, the bike was a absolute ***** to get started and refused to hold idle until it was warm (worse than before the rebuild), Also occasionally bogging down when taking off from idle. I'm not too sure what it is, carbs were synced well but still this problem. Idle screws are at 3 turns out, and seems to be better than when 2.5 turns out. Any more help would be greatly appreciated, I'm nearly home and hosed with this one! haha
hey man i had hoped everything you've done would have it sorted by now after you fouled your plugs did you change them? If not maybe a couple are slightly weaker and you are not igniting all the fuel and therefore are flooding. When you do change the plugs unscrew the caps and take off a few mill of the lead so you have new wire connecting them to the plugs.
Not sure if this will help you, but this video talks a bit about how carbies work. If you watch from around 15 minutes in, he starts to talk about how to tell what part of your carbies need adjusting by understanding the bike behaviour at various throttle positions. I'm no carby expert though, just trying to get educated myself!
Will adjust the screws to 2.5 next time I work on it. The plugs are new, but ill snip the leads a bit for better spark. Thanks for the tips guys. That video would definitely help out i reckon, cheers for the link! Knowledge is power! Haha
Good luck mate. You're one step ahead of me - at least your bike is running By the way I bought HT lead from a local KTM store for $5.95 per metre and made myself four new ones, if you're looking to improve spark that's a good way to do it too
Awesome ive been meaning to put new leads in but can only find inductive ones from auto stores and none specific for the zxr. Not sure of what type you are meant to use, but keeping them standard ht probably the best option. Cheers!
It's a pretty standard cable size for bikes with a copper core I believe. Some bike shops have it on a reel but it's getting harder to find so ring around first. If in doubt, take an old lead in with you to double check before you buy.
Finally got time to reply on here! Sorry guys I've been so busy with work and uni. The bike runs excellent when warm, but is definitely still boggy when revved while cold and can be a ***** to start. It all clears up after about 5 minutes of riding. Which is why I haven't been compelled to pull it all apart again. It seems to be getting harder and harder to start the colder it gets... I am certain it is just the a/f screws. I do remember when disassembling the carbs, the two outer a/f screws were 1/4 turn further out than the inner ones (I think) perhaps something to do with the different jet sizes on the stock zxr250A. I don't have time to fix it atm which blows because I can feel the bike runs better now than before the rebuild but I know it could be better.
Richer the pilots up another half turn next time you have her apart I have deduced the o-rings supplied by Litetek are slightly thicker then stock so 3&1/2 is 2&1/2
Why didn't I think of that!? Thinking back, the old o-rings were flat as a pancake! This explains so much haha hope it works! Cheers man
Sorry Edwardo it comes with no instructions. Thai Post won't let me include any 'documents'. I know that is crazy but what can I say? They routinely demand that we open the envelopes to inspect them. Anyway, at the bottom of the web page for the ZXR250 there is a pdf file that shows the assembly using LiteTek part numbers. http://litetek.co/docs/LiteTekCarbDiagram_Kawasaki_ZXR250.pdf Please lubricate the seals and o-rings with just enough silicone (grease or spray) to give a glossy finish. This is just to allow them to seat without any chance of pinching or chafing. In case the subject comes up, I know that some people use a type of gasket cement on float bowl o-rings. However, perhaps this is to compensate for the shrinkage that NBR, the OEM elastomer, suffers from. Personally, I am strongly against it, but if the factory workshop manual says to do it then I guess you could use some (very sparingly). It would not do any harm to the Viton material that we use, but it would have to be made of something quite special to resist fuel and particularly ethanol blend fuels. There are quite a lot of the members here that have fitted the kits and they are speaking from experience. cheers Blair
im having cold start issues aswell and finally got the bike apart yesterday to have a look today. gonna check valve clearances even though they were done about 7000 k's ago and check out the carby's as well.