OK, tip for you Joker had an issue with his 3LN? after putting a keyster kit through his carbs - the inside pair kits -v- the outer pair kits had the wrong main jets in them - this had previously been noticed by @my67xr - it's wrong on the boxes His bike wouldn't rev out properly either - I'm sure we get weird looks at being so pedantic about 'bloody fizzer carbs' but they are finicky and need to be set correctly Some discussion took place, connections were made and we realised that the same error had caught him out Now, this much is certain, the inner pair because they intake warmer air, which is less dense run leaner, SO the inner pair of carbs get the smaller main jets AND the outer pair, because they intake cooler air, being cooler/cooled on the outside edge get the larger main jets Easy to check before you delve into everything else
Okay Brandon, just to add to what @maelstrom wrote... When you pull the plugs out, check the gap. If it's at the higher end of recommended or higher, then put them back in with the gap at the lower end of recommendation. Also, sight testing carbs (or bench testing) is okay, but it's never 100% right. I don't care if your mechanic has been at it since he was in diapers, but you have to sync the carbs with a hot engine and allow the individual cylinders and their compressions to affect the sync. And finally, I always run fuel into a rebuilt set of carbs (to check for leaks and that the needle/seats are 'working' ) before they go anywhere near a motorcycle. All you need is a bit of fuel hose and a funnel. You can empty the fuel bowls once you've completed the test. Cheers
Hi all, I am finally taking my bike in for a reregistration check this Friday… have been putting it off for so long waiting for those carbs, now she’s back together I’m hoping it all goes smoothly and passes. Here in NZ because it’s previously been vinned and registered it should be fairly straight forward - much like a warrant of fitness check but a lot more thorough. Will let you guys know!
@Frankster @ruckusman thanks I’ve just noticed your replies sorry didn’t get the notification. I’ve had it running for an hour or so and seems to be revving up just perfect atm, yet to change the other 2 plugs but will do that this weekend. Cheers
So I’ve noticed spark jumping from the #1 cylinder lead jumping to the valve cover. Is that a clear sign I need new leads?
Well that shouldn't happen. Check the quality of the insulation on your leads. Also check your plug. If they are resistor plugs, maybe the resistor has gone open circuit. Maybe if there are resistors in the plug caps they may also have gone open. You could also just move the plug lead away from the cam cover but that will not solve the problem.
So I’ve noticed spark jumping from the #1 cylinder lead jumping to the valve cover. Is that a clear sign I need new leads? I've never seen that happen, so I'm curious to know what's causing it. The idea of a spark outside of the combustion chamber where there are fuel fumes and other potentially ignitable gasses worries me a tad!
You need to pinpoint exactly where its coming from .... run the bike in the dark 3LNs run 10K ohm caps which can be hard to find and removing the leads from the coil end is not an easy task either as the holding clips usually break Have the leads been trimmed and screwed back into the caps recently? Read thru these posts .... https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/help-required-please-fzr250.10045/page-3
Yeah I've been hearing a clear 'click' from which I know see is the spark jumping from the spark plug cap right about where it reads "NGK" as in your photo above and directly across onto the inner face of the valve cover. I noticed while running it in the dark but can see it clear as day in the light too. I was wondering about the leads, I bought a set from the local super cheat but I suppose they wont be suitable. I'll read through that link thank you!
Brandon, if it's just one lead doing it, then just check the lead is installed properly. It might just be loose.
I got some high quality replacement lead wire, proper suitable stuff for bikes from the local bike mechanic Getting the clips off of the coils is a real trick, as others have noted, not breaking them is the knack - it can be done
So changed the #1 + 2 plugs. Noticed the lead caps are 5ohm. Anyway put the caps back on and the #1 lead fell out of the coil…with two cable ties which I assume were there to hold it in place. So I have managed to buy a second hand pair of coils with leads etc - will try them out on the weekend and fingers crossed she runs abit better.
So I’ve replaced the coils - no more issues there. However, I’ve run the bike with the air filter off and noticed the #2 cylinder carb ‘slider’ isn’t moving at all when I rev it. I’d say that’s my problem - any ideas what’s happened there and can I fix it without taking the carbs off? Here’s a photo:
Just spoke with the gentleman who rebuilt them and he says the sliders should only be working with the tuned air box on/filter box. Have put it back on and is running a lot better, but, there’s still that hesitation under full throttle which I can’t help but think is that #2 throttle slider.
Rubbish This is my 3LN1 #1 had a pinched diaphragm during reassembly Also make sure these o rings are present
Yup whipped the carbs off and took them to him for an inspection and sure enough it was the pinched diaphragm. Am absolutely itching to get them back on and test her out. Fingers crossed this will be the golden nugget.
Sounds like you're working with one hand tied behind your back. Good thing people like the Chief are on here to call BS on some of these things. Hopefully, she'll be sweet now.
To be fair though without the air box on it won’t rev properly, perhaps on another bike he’s experienced it. Anyway, so pleased to say it’s finally running like a dream, Revs hard all the way to redline. I’d forgotten how much fun these bikes are! For a little pocket rocket they really excite the nerves. There’s a very slight hesitation down low on part throttle, very slight though so nothing I’ll worry about. Thank you all for the great advice. Next step will be sorting the warped rear disc - I had to replace it for compliance and the second hand one I put on and passed declaration on is warped. They required a minimum thickness of 4.6mm from memory.
I havnt read back on previous posts but did u adjust /setup the EXUP ? Glad to hear its running well now https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?thre...-powervalve-information-and-maintenance.1099/