hi all I am new here I am looking for a new clutch for my 1991 zx2r grey import and cant find one any where can any one help pls
hey kiff, i just supplied the part numbers straight out of the resource zxr250 manual on our forum, important to note the different part numbers for the steel plates, you need 4x of each (ones thicker) kawa stocks them, one day turn around, 5x fiber plates.
dont worry about the gasket, just be careful when you remove the cover, should be fine (mine looked original lol) Kawa dealer should sell the heavy duty springs with the kit, in total, you will require 8x steel plates (4x each), 5x cork/kevlar fibers, 4x springs. cost? expect $300
Hi coxo, my zxr250A clutch was slipping real bad, so I replaced the friction plates and she was a go-er. Friction plates were about $50 and bought hd springs for about $20. I kept the original steel plates but gave them a clean. I got the parts off eBay, also wemoto.com have them albeit more expensive. The manual describes how to do it with good pictures and all that. I'm no mechanic but I found the job to be simple and straightforward. Good luck!
I was going to do it I don't trust any one lol I think I mite just change all the clutch parts as I don't want to be doing it again. How would I no if the plate where on there way out Thanks Are the 250 A. different from the C ?
Hey coxo Clutches are pretty straight forward, they sit in oil, they comprise steel plates and carbons. The first parts that wear the quickest are the carbons as friction takes it's toll. Steels less as they are more durable. You also have springs but to date I have never had to replace springs. The easiest way to measure the plates is with a set of verniers. The manual will tell you what thickness they should be and how much tolerance as well. The trick with the steels is to make 100% sure they are scrubbed clean so that when re:assembled the steels don't stick to the carbons, otherwise you have just waisted time and money. To your second question, are the A and C the same, not certain but the manual will tell you that. Good luck.
Also I knew the friction plates/springs were shagged because when I gave the bike a big twist on the throttle, revs would shoot up and break friction in the clutch with the clutch lever well released.
nice bike, clutch remains the same throughout ALL the models, clutch plate tolerances can be found on our forums resource thread, and as Phil said, digital vernier calipers to measure spring, fiber and plate tolerances. * steel plates show wear/warp by uneven bluing - i can take a photo of a prime example if you like (my old shot clutch) * yes, trust me, quote the part numbers off our online manual, and it actually will appear as a 250 Balius clutch kit. *when installing the clutch make 100% sure that the thick steel plate goes in FIRST, then the THIN plate. * when installing the fiber, be sure that the oil pickup grooves face in a downwards motion \ <- like that. * check the torque tolerances on the clutch spring bolts, this is very, very important. (one of your mates should have a torque wrench)
I think it's a C model judging by the frame. What does the instrument cluster look like? An A model looks like this: http://aleminium.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/img_0242-1600x1200.jpg C model looks like this: http://i20.ebayimg.com/03/i/001/1f/50/a51a_12.JPG With regard to the clutch springs, most manufacturers give an overall free length(not compressed). If it's outside of the limits in the manual, they should be replaced.
