What sort of boost pressure do you expect to see @Murdo ? I cant see what the top plate of the Plenum thickness is.. but no doubt you have taken it all into account And I agree that we need that other Button @GreyImport
How did you find using those bits compared to normal threading tool? Do you set the drill to low or use a hand turner?
Just thought I'd throw this in for anyone who's interested... Recent Summernats in Canberra had a Pro Slammer (supercharged doorslammer running alcohol fuel) do HP Dyno runs against a twin turbo big block chev (3,000bhp with 54psi). Interesting results and good writeup. Needless to say, the WASP won't be running 54psi! http://www.dragnews.com.au/news-all...o-wins-against-pro-slammer-in-turbo-duel.html
Drill on low speed with plenty of lube (WD40 for aluminium). Drill a slightly smaller pilot hole first then use the drill point to drill to final size before the thread cutting engages. Andy, the turbo wastegate is set to 15psi, so will see how that goes first before we play with changes. Once we get that sorted then this will come into play to really get the sting working. Top plate is 6mm with 5mm screws. https://www.ebay.com/itm/AISIN-AMR5...sh=item3f953eb087:g:9ZcAAOSwovNaM~tT#viTabs_0
Holy cow, Turbo’D and Supercharged ...... If you get that thing sorted you can run tall gearing and keep the RPM at a safe level because you will have power to burn with neither item overly stressed. Can’t say the same for the pistons though Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
When we get into that will need forged pistons and custom made rods. I think the crank would be ok with the short stroke but my main concern would be the head bolts pulling out of the crankcase at high boost and there is not a lot of room for bolts through to the sump. May look at casting an extra thick crankcase with room for through bolts or getting one milled from a solid lump of alloy. Was also thinking that the clutch is a bit weak on ZXR's so may have to go to external dry clutch off something much bigger. If the gear box proves to be too weak then could run a primary chain/belt and use a competition box from something. Anything is possible with enough time and money.
Theoretically, the headbolts won't pull and the pistons are rods will be fine. The charge pressure should be the same (increase the combustion chamber volume to offset the boost), so the force is the same. What changes is rate pressure decrease as the volume increases (moves through the stroke). It works on an increase in the accumulation of force rather than increasing the peak. However, older engines or lower performance engines can be boosted without spacing by improving ignition and fueling and cooling. But as someone pointed out to me, there's a lot of overlap on the valves, so you might lose a bit of fuel-air mix out the exhaust. Hopefully it doesn't ignite.
Back to this again. Have all the bits finished that bolt to the turbine. Waiting on some bits ordered before bolting on to the rebuilt engine. Have all the water lines on and ready for assembly.
Have made and mounted the oil tank under the engine. Used a piece of 6mm alloy for the base and extended rearward to mount the oil pump with a screened pick up and baffle. Mounts for line fittings and filler cap. Will be filling with two litres of Jet 11, a full synthetic that runs to 400 deg + in jet engines, so should be a snack in this turbo. Still more to be done but in position and all fits inside the fairings.
These guys do a forged piston in the 50.25mm size with an unmachined head - would you dare take the A model cylinders out 2.25mm over stock - or can you fit C barrels and take them out 1.25mm? https://www.daytonaindonesia.com/product-subcategory/piston/forged-piston/102 I tried contacting them via their website for full specs & drawings but never got a response, if you knew someone going for a holiday in Indonesia I suspect they could just buy some at a shop
Made up a 2mm thick steel plate to cover the riders sensitive parts in the case of a line coming off or turbine explosion. Have oil cooler for the turbo mounted, still some ducting to be made.
Have made the battery mount and fitted a tempory battery to get the wiring worked out. Made two new cables for starter and earth. Mounted solinoid next to battery to keep wiring short. Made a 1.6mm thick cover over the battery and to act as a air flow smoother behind the rider. Wiring to oil pump in progress and hoses (after being sent the wrong bits) will be fitted tomorrow.
Come to a standstill with the wiring as I need a tacho. Anybody have a smashed set of instruments for a ZXR? So onto making the oil catch/breather tank. With the turbo on boost there is going to be more blowby past the rings so I made a tank to catch any oil blown out of the crankcase and collect it in an alloy tank mounted so that the oil can drain back to the case and the fumes will be sucked out with the exhaust gases. I used some of the 1.6mm sheet I bought last week and my Rosewood mallet on the small sandbag and pounded the snot out of it to get a rough curved shape. Then with the planishing hammer worked it over a curved dolly held in the vice. This gave the shape I wanted to be able to fit the tank under the side panel. Using some more of the 1.6mm sheet I folded a channel to fit the curved piece and welded together. With some tabs welded on for mounting bolts and bits of 6mm plate to take the thread for the hose fittings. It sits under the side cover nice and snug.