In a lot of cases an aftermarket muffler.... unless it dramatically reduces back pressure wont affect the tune of a bike to the extent that major changes need to be made... now if you were to change headers and muffler... that would probably be different as it would potentially scavenge the combustion chambers better resulting in more airflow and fuel, requiring a change to jetting etc... but that is an entirely different conversation.
Well i did cut open a damaged stock muffler a while ago , looks pretty damn restrictive. Gas come in and hits a wall, does a u turn through a very tiny pipe, hits another wall and does another u turn before it exits.
I think they're like that for noise and pollution mostly. I think we've covered that the collector and headers are the main "tuning" contributors in a 4-stroke engine. Have a look at the stinger on a 2-stroke exhaust...it's a tiny orifice. Change that to a large diameter pipe and see what happens. Changing that ZXR250 exhaust muffler to something more straight through will make the bike louder, but that's about it. I've run both at the drags and there's no difference in performance (WOT application). The ZXR has a 4-2-1 system, so not sure about other bikes/engines.
Yea I'd think that as well but can't argue with the way it feels on the road, back to back it does feel like it revs easier and has better low end torque
Hey Tony just been reading over your build from the last couple years, am very impressed! Perhaps in a few years I'll refurbish my bike. Anyway just wanted to ask where have you been sourcing all your new parts? From Kawasaki or a dealer? I'm on the Yamaha train and in NZ but still curious as I'm sure I'll be needing a few parts soon enough.
All over the place haha. Some from Bikebiz Kawasaki , then megazip.com for some rarer stuff, Partzilla for some even rarer things. motorcyclespareswarhouse.com for a few general parts aftermarket parts that aren't available. Greyimportspares.com for things I need in a hurry. Litetek.com for his great carburettor rebuild kits. And finally ebay for the absolutely unavailable things like my right side footpeg. Also helps to cross reference part numbers because certain parts are also used on bigger bikes. Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
Oh wow you've come so far and such an awesome job! The last 1% haha I say get it done and enjoy riding those sweet machines!
It was renamed that when imported to Australia .... goes with the ZX6R , ZX7R, ZX9R, ZX10R etc I guess Like we have had FZR250s with 'R2" on the rear bodywork .... goes with R6 , R1 etc Yamahas
Was usually rough bikes that were resprayed when they were imported right? Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
As the saying goes, last 1% takes 99% of the time, don't have any of the stickers that it needs, that's what is stopping me going any further unfortunately. Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
Soo after many months of trouble free riding I've noticed it's been cranking noticeable slower lately , soo I decided to check the battery aaand ofcourse its leaking acid out of the positive terminal . And also it looks like the extra negative wire the C model has , completely melted and also the plug on the flasher can relay is also badly melted. So obviously the melted wiring was a indicator issue. I looked around and found that the insulation on the right-hand side rear indicator wire was cracked and it must've shorted to the frame as it was burnt. So I pulled apart the wiring harness and cut the burnt wire back at the junction and replaced it while also repairing the burnt wire at the indicator and that was that issue sorted. Next issue was the leaking battery. Seeing as the tank needed to come off to remove it i decided to fix the leaking fuel tap. I had replaced the internal o ring with a nice Litetek one a few months but for some reason it's completely chewed out and started to leak . I suspect it might be due to the small rust particles i found inside it when i pulled it apart?? A nice clean and new o ring (lucky I bought 2, excellent carburetor kit btw ) and no more leaking . If it happens again i might have to clean the tank out . Next issue was the battery . I'm not sure why it has leaked . The acid level is still full aswell. Not sure if dud battery or the bike is boiling it . Checked the rectifier/rectifier and noticed the plug was slightly melted . Can't remember if it was like that when I put the bike together a year ago though . Popped the pins out and noticed the ground wire and postive wire was kind of corroded where it's crimped on so i replaced them and the plug. Checked all the wires for continuity to the battery and it's about 0.4 ohms which isn't bad . Stator still measures good . Charged the battery and cleaned the terminals then started it and let it warm. 11.8v at idle and 13.9v when reving it which is good . So i wonder what's the issue, defective battery? (11 months old), corroded reg/rec plug? ( seems likely) or faulty reg/rec itself ? (also seems likely). Curiously i did switch the multimeter to ac and notice 40mv . I know batteries don't like ac but is 40mv enough to cause an issue?. Maybe a voltmeter is a good idea and ride it around and see what it does.
40mv would be ripple from RR. You can dampen that out with capacitor between + & - leads. Shouldn’t affect battery in any way. Could leak be just crack in case? Does it come back if you wipe it off? Does battery’s level drop over time? Did you also solder and heatshrink-wrap repaired terminals? I always like to improve on factory wiring. Replace any bare brass terminals with tinned ones. It’s done this way in pro-motorsports, military and aerospace applications for performance, durability and reliability.
40mV is well under any chemical reaction threshold, but I doubt it is a true reading because it is over the top of a DC voltage. Also, it is root mean square voltage (or some other average voltage, not peak) so not a true indicator of too much. However, 11.8V is low, that is more concerning to me.
Yeah i realised the reg/recs are definately not perfect. I looks like the case right where the postive terminal is has slighty domed . Will have to ride it again an see if it does it again. The battery does drop but I did think its probably due to lack of use but it never has an issue cranking . Yep I solder and heatshrunk it and also cleaned everything well.
Yeah every zxr I've worked on doesn't seem to charge at idle which seems stupid. 11.8v with engine running and lights on does seem like a dying battery though