No, check the frame number that's stamped into the headstem area, and the engine number against that chart, the Grey Import tag's/label's aren't alway's correct
Hi. I found the numbers stamped into frame 2KR 164 216 and you are correct , it’s a 1988. Oh well, bike was sold to me as a 1986 and is registered as such. Now I know when looking for parts and information on bike. Thank you very much. Your knowledge of these bikes is very much appreciated . Now to get it running Cheers Vincent
Ok, do you have any picture's of your TCI box? I reckon the 1986 and the 1988 TCI's will be different, do you have a link to where you got the new TCI from ?
Have you checked for 12 volts at both sides of the fuses? I have been caught with good looking fuses that had no power going through them.
What I have done so far Pulled gas tank and air box, checked choke to ensure it operational across all four carbs. Fuel in bowls Tested coils @ 3.5 ohms Removed right hand controls and checked all switches, kill switch etc. traced all wires for breaks and cleaned all connectors Checked , cleaned all grounds Tried to bump start, no start. Tried auto battery to eliminate possible weak Mc battery. Checked exup valve. Good movement. Wired open to help with start Checked exup servo , tested, cleaned gears and regreased Compression test, good Tested fuel filter. Clear Tested fuel pump, good Neutral light on, oil light on when engine turns over. No spark in plugs, no power to servo motor for exup and fuel pump is not priming at start up Could it be the cdi ?
"No spark in plugs" Again, do you have 12v at the coils? If not then find out why and if you do then there is no signal from the TCI unit. This can be caused by the unit being faulty or one of the many 'idiot' circuits like side-stand, clutch, kill, neutral switches.
Have you checked for 12v at the positive side of the ignitions coil's yet ? Do you have a picture of the fuses you checked ?
There is a fuse (glass bodied?) in location 9 in the pic below, if you haven't done already, check that it is ok Also check there's power going into the kill switch and power coming out of the kill switch when it's turned on Unplug it and test the continuity across the 2x terminal's at the plug. If there's no power out you could try spraying some WD40 / CRC into the kill switch and quickly rock the switch back and forth a heap of times and retest it. If there's still no 12v power coming out of it then it'll need to be taken apart and the contact's cleaned with a small wire brush and some contact cleaner
I tested for 12v @ coils and coils are getting 12v Coils are getting power. Need to test primary and secondary next
I checked that fuse. Cleaned contacts and checked continuity all good. Going to pull the right hand control off bike again and take the kill switch out and check contacts. I am stumped. Bike ran beautifully, fired right up . This non start is sudden . Searching the internet for information on safety switches on that model of bike.
I wouldn’t even know how to test that. I have a manual , but it’s in Japanese. Does the 1988 FZR 250 have a kick stand safety switch ? Or any other safety switches , clutch, neutral etc?
When you turn the key on, does your neutral light come on ? Most Japanese bikes of this era have a switch which consists of 2 wires that connects to a switch under the perch which is activated by pulling in the lever, this also linked to the kick stand switch, the idea is that the bike will not start if the bike is in gear and the side stand is down and the clutch is not pulled in. I’d be looking at the clutch perch , if there is 2 wires connected to a small switch , try unplugging them and bridging the 2 wires together to complete the circuit. Also check the side stand switch , they do fail, again for the sale of testing, bridge them at the plug where the switch joins the loom and see if you get spark back. Chris
I thought you tested the Ignition Coil Primary already in post #27 above, you got 3.50 Ohm's Secondary side you should get 10K to 12K Ohm's with the spark plug cap's removed, spark plug cap's should read 10K Ohm's each too (Test with multimeter set to 20K Ohm's) Test the pickup sensor on the flywheel the same as you did to test the ignition coil primary's (multimeter set to 200 Ohm's, may need to try 2000 Ohm's too) Yes they have all 3 safety switch's, kick stand, clutch, and nuetral
Thank you everyone for your help and guidance. I discovered the problem. It was a faulty coil which fried my cdi. Coils are orerded and waiting for cdi. Just have to find cause of bad coil. Cheers Vincent
Good to hear you have it sorted. Read @my67xr 's thread on repairing TCI units you might be able to save that one and then have a spare.
The coil could have died from a dodgy spark plug, or a corroded spark plug cap. Here's some reading's if you want to test your TCI I don't have anything for the 3HX Exup Tci's sorry, diagram may help ?