timeserts are stronger than helicoils. if you were in oz i would tap it out for you to an oversize. if you put grease in the swarf galleries on the tap it will catch the metal chips.i believe the timesert is a better option.
Right sounds good. I don't like my chances either with taking the oil pan out Phil...so will most likely leave it in there and use oil or grease on the drill to catch out the aluminum shavings and when I re-thread it for the next size up I shall do it turn by turn and pull it back each time to minimize the s*** that might slip into the oil pan. Thanks Risky, to be honest I would have kindly accepted this offer as I have never done it before but will do my best. I guess just keep the threading bit as straight as I can (90degrees) to the hole as I re thread the hole. cheers team.
I took the sump off of the Across the other day, the gasket came off in one piece as long as you do it very slowly and wiggle the sump a bit to make sure half of it's not stuck to the bike and the other half of the gasket stuck to the sump and you lower it down and snap it in half. The non-brand helicoil I used worked but wasn't a 100% oil seal so had to use plumbers tape around the sump plug when tightening it back up into the new thread. And always remember. Lefty Loosy, Righty Tighty!
Oh yes the universal lefty loosy righty tighty. Me being an idiot, did not realise that I am now undoing the drain plug from UNDERNEATH the bike which means what looks like lefty loosy is actually righty tighty! DOOOHHHHH.
I get back from work tonight (which is in a different city than where my bike is at the moment) and have 4 days off. Have gathered some bits and pieces like the next size up tap to re-thread the pan and the corresponding next size up drain plug with a new crush washer. The plan is to re-thread the hole without taking the sump off will try this first and use oil on the drill and tap to try catch most of the aluminum shavings. Im not using any helicoils or inserts. Just next size up and bigger drain plug. (please warn me of anything I should know about just doing next size up, before I do it. Was also thinking about a drain plug that has a rubber O-ring in built to the thread for possible better sealing?) Probably the most important thing that I will do is ensure that I don't over-tighten a bolt or screw ever again on my bike..... Cannot wait for this as Ive sorted my gear and my basic handling skills is booked this weekend, all I want to do is ride this thing! properly =) Thanks again guys the advice here is pure gold. I can already say I have saved plenty of mental drainage and bank fund drainage by talking to you guys here.
Maybe pour in 100ml or so of oil into the filler so it drains out the hole after u cut the new thread .... it will hopefully carry out any crap and also lubricate the thread ready for the new bolt The new washer and thread should seal it fine ..... sump plugs just need to be nipped up slightly tight
Brilliant idea Grey!! So simple but would have never thought of something like that. Will definitely throw a couple 100mls in there after I have re-threaded it. Also will not over tighten the sump plug again...as I will be back to square one. Cheers Mate.
helicoils suck and will come back to haunt you, i just dealt with this issue after changing oil for a second time and the helicoil came out of the sump decided to get it rethreaded and havent had a problem since although the bloke did not remove my oilpan we just proped the front tyre up and he got under it, use very thick oil on drill bit and an old toothbrush and just flush 900 or a little of oil through when your done.
good luck pop - drilling and tapping new thread is a stressful job i found, especially on a customers bike because: you only get one shot at it! just take your time, remember to wind in 2 turns, then a whole turn out, spray some lube, then tap another 2 threads. - as a zxr owner i found they like a full synthetic 10W40 oil. do yourself a favor and change the spark plugs too - use NGK CR8E. remember to lubricate and adjust your chain, also a can of degreaser will come in handy. all the best and good luck mate. as for a basic under seat toolkit goes, i recommend a standard metric hex key set, a 1/4' drive ratchet with both a short and long extension. flat hex sockets including 8mm, 10mm 12mm 14mm. both a flat and phillips screwdriver. a locking shifter and that should cover it
Awesome Cal, thanks. Yeah was looking at getting someone to do it for me but once I get the tap which should be today I reckon I can give it a go, will just take it nice and slowly. Hmm might be time for a spark plug change aswell, I have limited service history on the bike as the previous owner just used to take it to the service shop and she never got any receipts. Bike seems to run very smooth from the 2 weeks Ive been riding it up and down the road untill I demolished the sump plug. May aswell change the sparks and lube the chain aswell. Have no idea about adjusting my chain? At the moment it has approximately 3/4 of a thumbnail of slack and movement up and down. No clue what so ever what it needs to be or how to do it. Thanks for mini toolbox advice aswell, went to the hardware store and grabbed many of those items.
http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/kawasaki-zxr250-service-manual-part-9.94/ Buy a paddock stand to lift the rear end
Finally tapped out the sump hole to M14, And sorted the sump plug. A couple of drops of oil dripping initially after I turn the engine off and then no more after a couple of hours. All up approx one teaspoon of oil underneath the bike. Maybe I should look for a different crush washer. Or a sump plug(bolt) that has a rubber ring halfway along its thread? Have seen these at local car store and seemed interesting. Other than that she suns like a beast! haven't revved it like I mean it (red-lines at 19,000RPM) yet but pulls through so well and absolutely screams!!! Especially with a 95kg porker (me) on it. Love it.
Wrap your sump plug with pink plumbers tape from Bunnings then thread it back in, it should stop the oil from dripping past the threads.